Redfox

got two today. First one was a foreign guy WHO passed the Corrado while I was waxing it, and he said:: That'sa darn nice car! Had one years ago. Da.n nice. Second one was on my way to a Classic car show, and two Guys was hanging out of their window of their car, while smiling, thimbs up and filming it with their phone, They didn't look like the sort of types WHO would pass by and "borrow" it. Cheers, Redfox.

Okay, here's an update for future members who may experience this problem. The problem was twofold, consisting of the following: 1/ the blue top thermosensor on the front of the block, had way too much internal resistance. So I installed a new one from vw. Engine now idle and Works perfect. Fuel consumption is now back to normal very good milage. 2/ the thermostat inside the waterpump is stuck or lazy. Install a new one from vw, and the coolant temperature is back to normal 88-92 when warmed up. I hope this will be of help to other members. Kind regards, Redfox.

Small update: I've been having som trouble with the idle being fluctuating and raised plus a very high gasoline use. I have determined the problem to being twofold: 1: the blue watersensor on the front of the engine is defect having way too high internal resistance. 2: the thermostat inside the waterpump have gone lazy. It's stuch somewhere, so the engine cools too much, and I run it at 72 deg cel. Only staying long time in idle will bring it up to 88-92 deg cel. So, I changed the blue sensor, plus the Black one for the Water temp instrument as well, and voila, idle is back to normal, no smell of petrol and car runs perfect. Before starting it, I took off the plus on the battery, and shorted the MINUS on the battery to the PLUS WIRE (NOT BATTERY!!). That should reset any faults and unload any capasitors inside the car. Then I waited a cup of tea's time, and redid the plus wire back on battery. Car runs great with lot's of power... he he. I've bought a new waterpump plus a thermostat etc, so will be doing that shortly. Question: Do I really need to undo all the belts and Wheels and servo pump to get to undo the cover of the waterpump, to be able to change the thermostat? Kind regards, Redfox.

Hi Sean, Do you know an easier way to get to the thermostat in the waterpump, other than draining the coolant, thking the belt tensioner off, belt off, all other belts off, all the belt Wheels off, drain servo oil, servo pump off, then get to the waterpump? It would be REALLY nice, if there is an easier way? Kind regards, Redfox.

HI Sean, Thanks for your help. I've bought a new thermostat inside the waterpump, and a waterpump itself. The blue dot and other temp sensors are not available any more. The isv is also not available any more. Do you mean that the thermostat inside the waterpump has stuck or gona lazy? Or do you mean another thermostat? Today I took off the isv, and soaked it in cleaner agent. Back on, cleaned contact points for wires, and took a testdrive. Still same problem. But otherwise it Works real nice. 0,85 bar and 250 on the needle. But the fueluse is really high as it still thinks it's Warming up (I think). Usually, I run 17-21 km/L slow driving, and 14 with a heavy foot. Kind regards, Redfox.

Hi all, Still having some idle trouble, and I asked if vw could order the isv and the blue dot temp potmeter, but they are not available any more... So, does anyone know how I can test and eventually adjust these two things? I really need the g60 to settle Down to 860rmp's Again, instead of thinking it's on rised idle at 1200 rpm's. All hoses are tight. Water temp is very slowly rising to 92 degrees celsius, but as soon as I drive, it falls Down to 72 degrees celsius. Fan and fan afterblow Works well and as intended. It's using vrazy much gas on this condition, as if it thinks it have to warm up all the time. Normally it never rises over 1000 rpm on warm up, and quickly falls Down to 860 rpm. But not for half a year now. Please help, as I'm pretty desperate. Kind regards, Redfox.

I am also still interested in two or three sets. Cheers, Redfox.

Ah, a Little news here for the New Year. Today, I finally after three years, managed to get my hands on a pair of original Corrado leather door handles, old style interrior. One of only 50 set ever made ;) Cleaned them up and they went right on. Looks VERY good on the interrior! Cheers, Redfox.

Hello everyone! It's been a good year for me, my Family and my Corrado G60. I wish you all and your families, a Happy New Year 2015! Greetings, Redfox :cheers:

Quite well, but I don't drive in the Winter, and prefer not in rain either, but cannot allways avoid it. So will last longer tahn normal. Cheers, Redfox.

A Danish Company. Yes, they are zinc plated. Cheers, Redfox.

Bought the lot at vw. Calipers are originals renoovated from a Company WHO do this. The splash plates were not changed at this Picture, but also vw. Regarding the Lotus, yes, me too. The Corrado is a serious drivers car, with very good handling abilities, bit the Esprit is in a Whole different League. The can kiss their Ferrari (about same year) goodbye, as well as many newer cars. ;) Cheers, Redfox ;)

Hmm, been a while since i last did the above, and the problem is still there. I suspect it's the thermostat in the waterpump, that have gone lazy, so I've bouht another thermostat and a lot of other parts, which I will be adding soon. I'll get back on that thermostat solved the issue or not. Other than that, the Corrado is running fine and quick. I've been out in it a few times with the local Lotus Club, and it's not as fast the fast ones, but can easily follow along ;) I've also had another problem:: when raining hard and a lot, there seems to be a small leak somewhere along the right side a-pillar, so a Little Water came onto the carpet below. I've taken doors apart, and redone the watershields on both doors, cleaned up the doors themselves, and thankfully they are as clean as from factory ;) Then rustprotected and reassembled, plus some new screw covers to suit the small ones on the edges of the doorcards. Those Things are hard to come by now asays.. So I asked the local VW pusher if they can get some, and the answer was: No. Hereby a heads up to you Guys, KEEP THEM AT ALL COSTS! Then I went on to the front Water tray, and there was nothing there. As you may know, I did a Golf 2 watertray in the front, and the gasket under the cabin air intake is now renewed. Then I went on to looking under the final weather strip on the right hand side a-pillar, and there may have been a small mislaying of the sealant around the new front screen, so in heavy rain, there could be a Water ingression here. I then cleeaned it all up and redid it, as the craftsman WHO did the frontscreen apperently could not do such a simple task. Added the final weather strip and voila, no more Water inside the car, for now ;) Then I cleaned up the shole underside of the car plus the suspension, wheelarches etc, so it's nearly ready for Winter storage's hibernation. Question: Does anyone have practical hands-on experience on the Castrol Edge TI engine oil? I mean the newest version with added titanium something inside? I generally don't believe Commercials, and called Castrol, and they really had nothing to say about it. Most oil threads on the web is dominated by some strange peole WHO argue with no backing up of their sayings, so no use there either. It would be really nice to be hearing fromsomeone WHO actually runs on that new version. And finally, here's a pic of the Corrado's stablemate ;) [ATTACH=CONFIG]80129[/ATTACH] More later, Redfox ;)

Hi Mike, I agree, My G60 is Flashrot, and I keep the Black bump strips. Without the car looks too tall, and that we cannot have ;) Nice Rallye ;) Cheers, Redfox ;)

Filling up at the local Shell and two Guys standing outside gave big thumbs up ;) Redfox ;)

The Jetex is as far as I know made by a Swedish Company, WHO also sell it under other names. I got one on thise:: two boxes and one flame silencer, so one would call it 3 box maybe. I does not nit a lowered car like mine (ke inoxline v1, and it hits the rear beam all the time. I've knocked dents, I've tried various hangers, rubbers, stiffer ones, remade hangers, remade the tubing etc. I've installed a free flow cat and made tubing to ensure better flow too. This gave 16 Hp and quite some Nm's. I still need to solve the tubing that passes over the rear beam (axle). It holds okay and is two years now. But quality wise it's not nice made. Lot's of small Things from the welding, Brown and Black spots etc, and bending is not fitting well. So be prepared to do some modding and it'll fit okay. Btw. mine is a G60 from 1991 Cheers, Redfox.

I think that would not Work. He is a totally different type as a person, and I don't see him being vompatible with TG's crew. But I would prefer TG to continue, as long as they would slightly develop the show over time. In fact they have, and I think it's time to do that Again. Kind regards, Redfox.

If not sold, I would like to buy that G60 light key ;) Kind regards, Redfox (G60).

Went to a Lotus trackday/dinner meet last Saturday, in my Corrado, and everyone commented that they like the Corrado G60. Then met the best tuner here in Denmark, and he smiled all over when he saw it, and came over to chat. Then offered some tuning parts etc in a box, so I guess I will pay him a visit ;) And see his 800Hp Lotus Elise in the same time ;) Cheers, Redfox ;)

I have a Corrado G60 and a Lotus Esprit Turbo SE, so it Hurts me a bit to see it smashed. What a stupid noise over something that is air. It has nothing to do with the former war, and seriously everyone should calm Down. Grab a beer and forgive each other. topgear is a Unique show, but the episodes where they trash cars and what not, is stupid. I prefer the episodes where they search for the greatest road to drive on, and finally end up in Transilvania at the Transfegerashan. That is Unique and worthy of a show. But trashing great sportscars like the Lotus and 928 is stupid in my humble view. Personally I see Chris Harris shows as quite boring, because all he does is slide through every single corner. But he is not all bad, so I see some of them. The clip with the testarossa was good. A heavy car driven fast - great fun. The problems with TG may even give Chris some more Wind in his sails? I don't think BBC will sack Clarckson, as they will Loose every single viewer on the show. And they have absolutely no alternative to that show. What a Waste and poor Esprit.... ;( So cheers, Redfox.

Okay so far I have looked at all the tubing and cleaned them up and retightened. The micro switch is cleaned and throttle linkage is cleaned up. That seems to Work.No difference. So, I am thinking this:: hte car seems to spend a longer time than usual to warm up, and outside it's been 30 deg. cel. for some time now. But if I let it stay and idle (raised as described), when it reaches apprx. 90 degree on Water temp (there oil will read something like 85-90 deg. cel), it slows idle Down to how it should be, and drives fien from there. My guess is this: I think there may be a slow/worn thermostat in the cooling system that does not move or hang slightly, as this could explain the longer Warming up time, by using the Whole cooling systems capacity. As I understand it, there are 3 sensors, one on the radiator, two on the flange above the oilfilter, and finally the thermostat inside the waterpump. Which one could control that? Now, the question is, could this be the thing? And how to determine this and what thermostat it is, before I take everything apart? (would like not to). Cheers, Redfox.

Cheers, 'll just sneak in a Picture of my own 3 red ladies ;) [ATTACH=CONFIG]79239[/ATTACH]

Just thought I'd chip in with my thoughts, On late G60 engines (mine is a 1991), the cylinderhead is ported both in and out, together with ported manifolds. Mine is stock standard, and is rolled conservatively at 178 Hp. When I later on made my own 2,75 inch complete exhaust including a special flowed cat, I now have 192 Hp, while still being able to get a really good milage, if I don't press the pedal heavily. There are other small Things to do. The rallye/street cam, assymetric, is giving good power. The Little throttle blade can be changed to a better flowing one, and the Black plastic lunchbox can be deleted. The snorkel inside the airbox can be taken out, but keep the connector to the front. Or cut it shorter. Better airflow, as the air don't have to turn, right in the middle of the flow. Remember to run in your g-lader slowly at idle for quite long time, like an hour or so, to let the seals settle. And not too much grease. And remember to change the oil line to the g-lader every now and then, as they disintegrate frominside, while looking good on the outside, making sure oil feed to your precious g-lader is fine! Be carefull on using a smaller Wheel for the g-lader, as it can spin so fast, that it vibrates to pieces. Speak for example to Tim at roettele racing in Germany about it. He also makes bigger g-laders, like the G65 and G75. Front mounted intercooler and remap is always good,. and now adays some Guys are making an even better one than the Rallye. Depending on tuning grade, you may want to run a colder spark plug. If you delete the boost return, be sure that there is a bit of oil mist in the charger still. Never use a k&n or alike, as it grinds Down your charger like very thin paste. I've seen the insides of what it does. Or change tour charger more often. If carefully made, the g-lader will hold up. Service it completely and with better bearings, every 50.000 km, and you'll be a happy driver. Keep the feeler on the inlet tubing clean and the oilmist (just a tiny bit) clean from the charger up. The reason some people get much better power with the front mounted intercooler is not only it's bigger and may flow better, but also that some original coolers (the small one in the corner on the Corrado g60), is leaking. I have changed the tightening bands to better type all over, so there is no leak. Finally, the chargers came in 3 different versions, increasing power, as vw got some critique originally on the cars being slow. Which they are not. I've knocked some 944 and a few 308 gtb's and many more in my Corrado G60. Make a short shift. I did, and it's really better to drive. Increase your oil cooling, and delete the Little oilcooler with Water around, and go for a real oilcooler. The Corrado can run quite hot in oil. I change my full synt castrol oil every 5000 km always. Only original oil filter to be sure that flow through it is like it should be. No alternative filters here, thanks. I've seen a filter that did not flow the same as an original filter, and the guy lost his engine. Only give some pedal, after oil is 90 degrees. Finally, I will say, always roll the car, and do it the same place. It's often seen that some bolt on mods, or even a flowing of a head, is making Things worse, or just the same. Every time you do something, roll it. It's the many Little Things adjusted completely, that makes good power. Not justa catalogue on stuff. Often items are boasted to be so and so efficient, but often with out real evidence. A testbench is easy to "pursuade" to give better results, than it actually do. Air and airspeed and the perfect temp on the air is the way to go. Fuel alone is just wasted. To use it, you must have better flow and more air. I'm sure you know that, just mentioning ;) On my Esprit turbo se, there are a lot of chips to be bought, and they are mostly marketing stuff.. No real power gains. Instead a lot of wasted fuel and eventually burnt piston Crowns etc. Lighten your car for all the crap that sometimes sneaks in, like heavy stereo, heavy Wheels and so on = free power. Just my two p as others may see Things differently. Redfox.

Looking good! Cheers, Redfox.

In fact I'll give you another example why it's going Down for vw (on a larger timescale or just on this perspective): I wanted a copy of the original sales brochure of the Corrado G60 1991, and I wrote politely to vw and explained. They politely answered, that my appeal was forwarded to the department of old cars, heritage etc. And after some days, I received a letter containing a cd with a Electronic copy of the press materieal from around that time. All fine, though I would have preferred a paper copy, as that was the Whole point. The other stuff I ca find myself on the web, but never the less a fine gesture of VW. What is not so nice, in my view, is the fact that vw accompanied the cd with a corporate letter describing the rights of how, when, where, whom and WHO can use this cd they've sent me. Otherwise risking being sued... Talking about loss of respect for the Company... The Whole idea of mass copying (for example) the sales material is making present owners even more proud of their Corrado, and perspective future owners even more wanting to get a Corrado. That is the Whole point! Killed by vw. And that my friends, is a real pity. I repeat: as long as vw act like a laywer firm, and don't give a rats ar.e about their herritage, I'll NEVER recommend them to anyone, neither will I ever buy another vw, because they are killing the chance of driving their old models, and killing the cult followers. Should they, on the other hand, come to their senses, and stand back their cars, I'l be happy to change my oppinion for sure. Think of Mazda. They have very Little, though a bit, of history and they would REALLY like to have the cult following that vw have. What do Mazda do? They make SPARES for their old cars. Thinking MX-5 here. On the other end of the scale, I'll mention Lotus. They have an employee, Mr. Andy Graham, whose job it is to answer questions from owners, and to send the owners, upon their request, a formidable certificate of build, containing all sorts of details on what, where, how, when, and WHO and containg what options, colours etc, where and when was it sold, what number in line of production is it etc, on their cars. Each and every one. Talk about support. (I have an Esprit too). VW should do that and make spares and be PROUD of what they did yesterday! Nuff' said. Redfox ;)