seanl82

Picked parts up today, top Bloke! Thanks very much Andy!!!:thumbleft: Free Bump!

I'd go with Kev's suggestion, Monaro. Can't beat the sound of that V8!

Keep an eye on the paintwork the first couple of weeks Pete. I've heard with the cheaper unvented covers, the soft inner fabric retaining moisture and damaging paintwork - alot like if you leave a bonnet bra on for too long. Obviously more of an issue at this time of year with so much moisture in the air.

Mine does it too, but I had put it down to the botched welding that was done......................

Will have a look at the guide, thanks!

Wheels look like Reps tbh. Take one off, should be stamped with Manufacturer, model and PCD on the back of the spoke somewhere.

I did that when removing my headlining! It was working both tilt and slide before starting, after putting it back in, it tilts, but gets stuck sliding, and I've damaged the paint on the sunroof doing it! :censored: Need to investigate that now as well! The light/sunroof controls are different between early and late, but I don't know if they are interchangable or if the wiring is any different, sorry!

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?10426-Door-handle-repair-kit-THEY-ARE-NOW-AVAILABLE

What did you find best to get to the hidden bolts behind the scuttle? I'm doing this tomorrow and I'm kinda going in blind having never done it before, but remember reading the two behind the scuttle are a bitch to get at!

Could be a lot of things tbh. Does it turn over or is there nothing? Ignition switch is common and likely if you have nothing. Try wiggling the key in the barrel whilst trying to start it. If its turning over, listen to make sure the fuel pump is priming, as the relay is also a common problem, although an easy and cheap fix. Other than that its a process of elimination, and could be tons of things mate.

All this stripping and cleaning makes me wanna go for it too! Must.................Resist..................and......................prioritise! :lol:

No its cream mate. It separates between the tunnel running down to the front footwells. Its both sides just below the tunnel part thats burnt.

Thanks! :thumbleft:

Sorry dude, can I add the mk3 heater controls too please. Thanks!

Yeah thats what I thought you meant mate. Tuesday is good. PM me your number to arrange a time and where your folks place is, and I'll pick em up then. Thanks very much mate, appreciate it!

Andy can I have the grille, front wiper motor, scuttle cover, seat runner trims and clear repeaters please. Can pick up any time!

Yeah cover the carpet as well. The muppet that did mine didn't! You can see the pin holes and burns from the weld splatter. The whole car has been proper cowboy'd like this everywhere! Hats off to the bloke that did it though. Theres a village missing an idiot somewhere!

No mate! This is how I found it when I bought the car and stripped the interior out!

Yeah but you wouldn't use a G-Lader though would you!

If what I suggested is the problem, yep! Just don't do it like this!!!

Is it holding slightly? Take the tunnel cover off. My bet would be the spot welds on the mounting plate have given in.

I had the same dilemma in which to buy. Although you already own a VR, I am also using mine as a weekend toy. The fact has already been mentioned and its the reason I chose the VR, is that to obtain similar power you need to tune a G60 to within an inch of its life. This itself can cause reliability issues, and with the smaller pulley causing the charger to spin at stupid high RPM, rebuilds every two minutes at around £500 a pop put a big downer on it for me. Standard healthy VR and your laughing mate.

Mine had a factory immobiliser. Just look at the key. If there is a red insert on the handle above the key (if you know what I mean), it has an immobiliser. This is where the chip is that is read by the sensor ring on the barrel. If its an immobiliser fault, it should start for a couple of seconds, then cut out.

Original factory immobiliser is integrated into the ECU utilising a sensor ring on the ignition barrel, and a chip in the key. Generally if its the factory immobiliser at fault, it'll start for about two seconds, then cut out. There is no reset facility on the factory one though unfortunately.

Cheers guys, appreciate the comments! Its not so good close up though!!!!! lol Andy, holograms are much thinner than swirls, so a finishing polish would be best mate. Alternatively if there are a few more marks in your paint, a diminishing abrasive medium grade polish (Scholl S17+ or Menzerna 203s) would also work wonders. The Fast Cut Plus is very harsh and created lots of holograms, but was necessary to remove the oxidisation. That's why I needed to go over with the Ultrafina which is a finishing polish. Ultrafina is amazing stuff, its so easy to work with and leaves a great finish. The downside is that it's quite pricey. I've only been detailing a couple of years tbh, but the pads play a big role in the finish too. The 3M ones are colour coded though so very easy to follow and thats what I use.