aposegil

sorry to go off a bit here but has anyone realised the new low PVW has hit this month by publishing insults to "the Golf" mag and then having the picture of the editor and dep-editor right next to it I guess they had to do something to get there sales up :roll:

yep sounds about right at the min im strongly thinking about building a 16vT and recon i cen get 350bhp out of if without to much trouble ive even seen a guy in germany get nearly 600bhp out of a 1.8 and according to some guys in vwvortex some guy trying to get 1000bhp now if he does that ill be very impressed :D but cant see how he is going to do it lol

yeah the only way to make sure ur dont have those probs on dump valves are to get either BOV from turbosmart blitz or HKS or dual pistons ones like forgemotorsport personally i wouldnt touch baileys stuff p.s Kev i know what u mean about higher boost absordtion lets i get that with my charger ;) ;) lol

Personaly i wouldnt buy anything other than Infinity perfect 12" ive got mates that has these and oh my good they sound amazing Not only will the shake the life out of u they are very musical personally im waiting on my pioneer professional sub to go before i get one :)

mate go down to ur local stainless steel exhuast place and they can make it up in 10 mins and wont cost alot :) also only used stainless steel jubilee clips wont break like the other crappy ones out there

yeah thats the best way one of my mate has a two stage electonic control which is the nuts and works the same way as the greddy but where u can choice the boost levels :D perfect for take offs with low boost then kick the big power once rolling :D

im running 7.5 x 16" et 20 with no problems but then i do have coilovers :) so the 9 x 16" et 15 are going on now :)

Kev totaly understand where ur coming from but alot of people dont realise that the waste gate can cause so many troubles. the simplest way to see if ur wastegate is good enough for ur engine is go along in a long gear 4th or 5th about 3500rpm where boost will kick in quick and plant ur foot down Oh and ull need a very good boost gauge for this no crap thats reads 1.5 more boost than u really have lol once the car has produced full boost, keep ur eye on the gauge (or get a mate to do it) a good waste gate will hold it or slightly increase right until the end and past the power band a crap wastegate will leak so ull see the boost drop off before u get to the end of the power band It u have a leaking waste gate it will cause loads of problems including lag and slow spin up :(

ok quick question and prob been answered already but was traction a huge problem on the day?? to damp surfaces??

nice pics lol

oh and i forgtot to add this is realiable every day cars for these guys

ok ill give u example of both my mates Both have uno turbo's one a mkI the other the mkII (and as far as i know they are both the fastest one for each model in the uk) anyway one runs a T25 and the other a T3 equivilant but the both had had all the works done (full ball bearings hydrib etc) along with uprated wastegate (which is needed when playing with turbo) from standstill they both boost up as quick as each other but the T25 once it hits 1.2-1.3 bar thats about it whilst the T3 shots right upto 1.5-1.6 and yes both do have major issues with tranction considering the weight about 700kgs :shock: so yes if done correctly it will make a difference but u just cant bang a turbo on there and expect a difference.

ok lag is determind by how much u need to get the turbo to boost. If turn the boost right up u tend to have less lag as the boost feed wont be able to open the waste gate so quickly so no exhuast gases escape out of the wastegate making the turbo spin quicker and faster. if its turned right down the waste gate will open alot quicker so u will have more lag due to exhuast gases escaping out of the waste gate and need more gases to get the turbo to spin up.

mate i can totally believe it but then u havent seen my mates style of driving :( that poor corrado is either allways flat out or braking then the double clucthing :( so the best clutch we can put in there now would be the best for the future lol :roll: :shock: :lol: plus i only put a meatier one in mine because i knew i want to up the power one day :D

im actually on the look out for one at the min gutted i didnt bid for the one i found on ebay a while back :( :roll:

thanx guy's going to get the guys ot get out a 16v and vr6 one to see the holes match and prob go with the vr6 one :D

Sorry guys but im not a big fan of these stainless steel branch manifold Ive found that using a ported and polished to match head cast top manifold with either the G60/ 2L 16v bottom half manifold or a custom steel one like i have on my car works massively without the danger of banging up against the powersteering rack (was known to happen on some cars) along with heat melting things down there, which heat wrap can also sort out. Also a well designed exhuast system helps aswell as i have a custom jobbie on mine but the Miltex and Magnex seem to do a very good job unless ur going to have the car on a track all day long i rather waste the £300 for manifold and prob another £200 to fit it on a 2L bottom end and balacing engine compenents. just my 2 p's worth

I would suggest a very good service I.e get the fuel lines and meteringhead off and good clean with fuel injector/carb cleaner Also Idle vavle And then a good service replacing all parts and tune up did this once to my 16v and after putting it all together it started to idle 200rpm higher than before and made a huge difference to the pulling power :D

personally i would drop the TT manifold and T5 and get yourself a T3 hybrid with the works ;) ;) with a ATP manfiold Also instead of going to 1.9 get urself some original Audi quattro forge pistons which are more than capable to handle 600+ bhp and with the rest of money u save from reconing the turbo etc get urself a standalone of G60 system and remap it to ur engine just my 2p's

Hello guys got to change the cutch on my mates 16v and GSF do several Standard LUK 228 £96 + vat Standard LUK G60 228 £86.50 + vat Standrad LUK vr6 228 £82 + vat Sachs Sports Clutch for 8v and G60 228 £149+vat I know im running a vr6 clutch in mine but i cant remember if thats a 16v or vr6 pressure plate. Also mines a uprated item capable of hold 400bhp so i know its not standard. So what would you recomend my mate to get??? its the 2L 16v running a 1.8 16v head air filter and exhuast so about 160-170 bhp so needs something that will handle his driving all day lond ;) ;) thanx in advance

isnt there no one that can point me in the right direction??? even how to test which bit could be fualty ??

whats the compensator ??? is this the valve controled by the rear axle beam??? if so i jacked the beam from fully down to fully up and made no difference :( and i did have the nipples off coompletely even tried pumping the brake pedal

Hello guys went to try and take the car to MOT today but knew the brakes need proper bleeding. For bleeding I have a bottle that attaches to the resovoir and you pump it up to 1 bar 14.7psi so that it pushes the fluid thorough the system nicely :) anyway went to bleed the rear first and nothing!!!! nothing was coming through at all, i have changed the lines to braided but otherwise done nothing else except the car sitting there fronts the fluid went throught 100% including clutch system so what could have happened for nothing to come out of the rear??? thank you in advance

ive got to agree he is the "GOD" to us modding and standard guys not only is he helpfully and knowledgable but one top man :D

mate what dash do you have early or late so i know