Riki

Yes as far as i can remember it should apply to both. I had a look on ekta and it doesnt list the sleeve for the corrado but the part number for a mk3 golf VR6 sleeve is 893 253 139. It always stuck in my mind the set up on the VR6 as i remeber thinking i would have to drop the axle on the first one i did. Just have a close look at the section just befor the rear axle and you will see the bit i am talking about. I dont have access to elsa/etos or i would post up a pic to show you. Anyone help out?

Have you had a look at the crank pulley to see if the keyway on the crank is ok? Pulley might be moving around. Riki

The flywheel mounting bolts are offset so it will only mount in one way where as the crank pulley can be mounted incorrectly if someone has removed the pulley ( allen key bolts ) from the mounting part with the key way.

I used to work for VW and you dont need to drop the axle. The new exhaust comes in two sections with a sleeve to join them at the straight part just before the axle. if you look closely you will see two marks on the straight part to align the clamp and where to cut. Riki

If you have trouble cranking over check the heavy red cable that goes from the battery onto the starter. These are really bad for corrosion . Take it off the starter and give both the terminals a clean up with emery paper until they are shiny. If there is excessive resistance there your starter will be lazy and your alternator will not charge properly. Hope this helps.

Wicked wheels used to come into my work. They have a big mecc van with a shot blaster , spray booth and over in it. They do a good job. He did the centres of my RM's about a year ago and they are still brand new. He is pretty flexible with the price if you dont need them done right away and leave them with him. His name is `Alan McNicol and his number is07989 442 345. If you want a better than new finish we have used pristene in Milton Keynes. The finish is brilliant and guaranteed for a year. I think it is £85 per wheel. I am sure they have and advert in the vw mags.

I know, i dunno if it was a special order but it was an oddball car! The only one i have ever seen. :D

get a good multimeter an conect in in series with thebattery earth strap and the earth post. lock the car and observe the current draw after 5 mins. A nominal value should be around 0.05 amps. If it is more than this you have an excessive draw. To try and determine which ircuit is causing the draw pull the fuses out one at a time while watching the meter. If the draw drops then you have found which circuit it is. if you still cant find it pull out the realays one at a time and observe. Next disconnect big components one at a time. Starter,Alternator,wiper motor, ecu, stereo, alarm.locking pump. Its more likely to be a component faulty rather than the wiring . I hope this gives you some help. :D

I worked in a dealer and one of the very last Corrado VR6's we sold had air con and an air bag as standard. It was a horrible 4 spoke wheel and bloody huge. I remember it as it just didnt suit the car at all. I think there was an additional document in the workshop manuals detailing the fitting of it. Sorry i cant be of any more help.

Then offside track rod is the one that should be adjusted. The nearside should be set to a length specified in the VW manuals. I dunno about the bently manuals but your friendly dealer should be able to give you the spec. It is measured from the flat edge of the track rod which buts against the rack to a centre line going through the track rod end. From memory i think it was something like 330mm. The spec does change depending on model year etc. Once this is set get the camber set then the toe. If your castor is out of spec you have probably bent a wishbone. They dont do very well after a heavy kerbing. Hope this helps. :D

There should be three 10mm nuts holding on the heater box assembly at the bulkhead. I'm guessing as i havnt seen a LHD before but i think the other one should be behind the inlet manifold. On a RHD it is behind the coolant resevoir. Once you get the heater box out it is worth while changing the studs which screw into thye heater box and replacing the nuts. They get a bit rusty after a while.

I have been looking in the forum for an answer to this but i couldnt find anything. Does anybody know if you could get a storm with the option of Recaros? I know the special edition came with them but that was only five cars! I was just curious as i have started hunting for one. Recaros are on my wish list ( along with everything else!) Anybody have access to an original brochure or options list? thanks. :D

There is a tool available to get these off. It is an oversize socket with a left handed thread inside which cuts into the outside of the locking bolt as you buzz it off. They are expensive from Snap-On. Around £90 for a set. I am sure Taskmaster do them also. The Brittool agent that comes into my work said they did them and were around £30. You can always try the old socket hammered over the top as mentioned before. It works best with a double hex i find. Get one that is just slightly smaller than the collar of the bolt. Hammer it on nice and tight and then it should turn off. There is a very good chance the socket will crack but you may be lucky enough to get them off. Good luck.

Might be worth looking at the throttle body switches. If the cable is adjusted up too much or sticking when you let off the throttle it may not be hitting the idle switch. Also make sure that the multi plug going to them is attached. The heat from the exhaust makes them brittle and they sometimes break. Hope this helps.

sounds like the main water pump. I think they are a bit tight to replace but not the end of the world.The v belt is a pig to come off. You need to screw a bolt into the tensioner to release the tension. I think you mat need the alternator off also. Im am not 100% its been a while since ive done one.

Is the fuel pump really buzzing when it is running? If it is i think thats where the problem may lie. The fuel filter doesnt bed in. You have maybe disturbed some dirt in the pump or you could have water in your fuel. If the injector was blocked you would have a noticable misfire similar to a plug going down. It would be lumpy on idle. The regulator is really only a ball working against a spring so that is unlikely to fail. The vacuum pipes going to it are prone to perishing with heat so that could be something. Im not sure how that would afect the running if the pipe was leaking.I am trying to think what else may give you the faults. It could of course not be fuel altogether. My friends G60 had the lower crank pulley work loose. It eventually jumped a tooth on the belt and ran really flat as a result. He was really lucky not to blow the engine. Check the double hex 19mm on the crank pulley just in case ! I cant think of anything else but let me know how you get on.

The scoprion alarms fitted by the dealers were cat 1 thatcham approved. You can still get additional remotes for them either from the dealers or scorpion direct. If you open up your remote it should have a small sticker giving you the remote code. As steve mac said the alarm should be a battery back up to meet approval. You should have a bonnet switch also. I have wittnessed installs by lazy sparks in my old work who couldnt be arsed to fit a bonnet switch so it depends who did the install really. They dont have a shock sensor only ultasonics fitted to the A posts. You can adjust the sensativity by turning the tiny screw in the one without the led. The alarm side of it should be wired to cut the crank circuit when armed and the immobilizer should cut two other circuits ie fuel and ignition. These are all wired in black. It should passivley arm to meet approval but a lot of punters had this switched off after getting fed up with it! If they are installed well they dont give much problem but if they are just cut and twisted together you will be getting a little oxsidisation at the connections now and this can lead to it falsing. If you are happy with it i would leave it for now. The other alternative is to rip it out and get a Clifford or a toad but you are looking at £500+ for a cat 1 set up.

I am sure there is an earth that goes onto either the end rocker cover bolt or the end coolant housing. ( double nut) Its been a while since ive seen one in the flesh. Anyway if these are not conected/broken/loose, the instruments go all over the shop. I wouldnt worry about the coolant guage siiting just over half too much. The oil temp is very high though. My initial thoughts are electrical though. Could be air locked though (cooling system) and as a result you are not getting enough flow through the oil cooler. i know its a long shot but possible.

If your engine mount is really gubbed and the car is lowered a bit ,when you accel the rear silencer may be rattling off the back axle. What kind of exhaust you got? Depends on which front mount the guy is fitting. If its a standard one i dont think they are much more than £80. So £40 labour is not to bad. Its not that bad to fit , just a little on the tight side. I would get it done soon thogh. You may end up damaging your downpipe or the radiator with the amount of engine movement. I have heard good reports about vibratechnics mounts but they are expensive. About £120 for a front one.

sorry guys i was getting mixed up. :oops: You are of course correct. The negative and the wing are the same. Sorry.

When most people press in a bearing with a vice ( unless you have a bloody huge one!) they tend to use the jaws of the vice to press it in. This can crush the centre of the bearing and make it unusable. If you use a press you will have more space to get the correct sized drift in which presses on the outer edge of the bearing. Its bloody hard work with a vice as well. If you use a press it does the hard work for you. I am not saying that Ian bodged it useing a vice. He is a god in VW circles in my eyes. The difference is that he has more experience. the fact that you are asking would suggest that you dont. Its not really a job for the inexperienced. I still managed to bugger a few in my !3 years with VW so i should know. A way to save on the cost would be to take the hub off yourself then get someone to press it in for you. If you are anywhere near Glasgow i will do it for you. It doesnt take long with a press. Give us a shout if i can help. :D

Could be the water pump starting to sieze. Try and take the v belt off and check there is no play at any of the pulleys. Make sure they all spin nice and free.

Chech that the battery itself is secure and not sliding on its mount. Have had a couple of cases where new batterys were fitted and were insecure. You throw it round a corner, the battery slides and the negative terminal touches the inner wing! You loose power for a bit and when you straighten up it slides the other way and you are none the wiser. Might be worth a look?

It will still have a threaded track rod and end on the nearside but it should only be adjusted with the offside track rod. When you replace the n/s track rod there is a spec in the work instructions which you set it to. It is measured from the centre of the track rod end to the flat that buts against the rack. The same applies to all vws with struts and power steering although the spec of the track rod length differs from model to model. If it is adjusted on the n/s or both it will bugger up the centring of the rack , collum and steering wheel.

make sure that the suspension you have on the car is speced for a VR6. They are pretty nose heavy cars and if you get a budget set up fitted they really dont like it. Try and spend the money on good quality springs and dampers. It is worth it in the long run. Were the dampers replaced after the front toe was set? If this was the case it will be buggered up if they disconnected it from the hub. You will need to get the front camber set up along with the front toe. Toe should only be adjusted from the offside track rod as the nearside is a preset length. It might be worthwhile getting the front wheels balanced just to finish it off. I hope this helps a bit. :D