Dec

Spent the last few hours attempting to get it started! It's got spark and fuel and is 'kicking' but not catching yet. :roll: Drained all my batteries (and patience) for the day, so will have to give it another attempt tomorrow.

That's quite cool!!......maybe not on a rado but a nice looking rim none the less

:thumbleft: glad you got it all sorted!

Aye....the early cars with the 12 gallon tank will have a full sized spare wheel. (and a humped boot carpet) Later spec 15 gallon tanked cars will have a spacesaver.

Yup it's hubcentric spacers you are after!....they basically extend the hub, so the spigot rings still have a lip to centre on.

Induction kits (other than the 'big box filter' type that you mentioned) don't exist for any of the valvers, due to the way the metering head works. They generally result in less performance and more noise anyway! If you want some more noise drill a few holes in the 'wing' side of the standard airbox.

PeaRoast! :tongue: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=72288

9a's a re a bit notorious for idle problems like that! Mate has one with very similar symptoms. There are two 2-pin plugs on the engine side of the metering head. Try pulling them out and see if it makes any difference. This made a big improvement on his as whatever fueling sensors they are reset to a default value when unplugged. Mpg did drop noticeably though.......he's going to solve the problem by replacing the entire metering head.

Sweet! looking good!

hmmmm, only thing I can think of that would be close to what they are talking about would be the flap on the metering head. On that case you could probably pick up the entire unit for £20 2nd hand!

The crankcase breather pipe will always allow a mist of oil into the inlet piping, so don't be surprised to see some there. what parts exactly are they soaking/saying are jammed on/off?!?

:brickwall: Fudd!!! Forgot to Toad-proof my post! :tongue:

Just get them from GSF etc.

Yup....after a quick rummage through the attic....I have the hose in my hands! Looks in deecent enough nick, and is a proper O.E VW one. 8) PM me on your address and I'll stick it in the post to you tomorrow morning. :wink:

jeeze...page 17 eh...you don't make it easy on us! :tongue: I'm pretty sure I have one of those hoses in the attic which you are welcome to have. Seen as it's happened twice on the same hose.. it may be worth checking for a blockage downstream of this hose that would be causing higher pressure?

Dohh! Did the blown hose leave you stranded?

What Rieger kitted rados look like from the back: I'm all for the wider look, but that is just getting a bit silly imho! There are far too many vents, spoilers ducts etc on those kits....way too Nova'ish.....and pretty much the exact same kit design has been used to butcher many a mk1/mk2 Scirocco aswell: *images too big to link directly http://www.scirocco.ch/Image.aspx?src=clubfahrzeuge/25_1.jpg http://www.scirocco.ch/Image.aspx?src=tuning/89_1.jpg The only one that I think it has any possibility of being acceptable on is the Mk2 rocco....and that is only with it being majorly de-chaved. :bonk:

YES! :tongue: However bad it is putting nasty bodykits on......the least you could do is do the job properly! This was a nasty bodykit conversion job, done badly, painted pink and then not looked after, so it ended up in pretty rough condition! :confused:

Aye, well the 1.8L will have three of those single blade temp sensors, whereas the 2.0L only has one. On the 1.8L one is for the gauge on the dash as Jim said, one is for the warm up regulator/5th injector, and one is for the ECU. I'd doubt that they were causing the problem, but they only cost about £2 each if you want to replace them and rule them out? Even quicker/easier, just swap the plugs on the three sensors around (as they are all identical) and see if that makes any difference. Along with the pipework+ISV taht Jim suggested, try the most basic one of all.......is the throttle cable sticking? Is the throttle plate in the throttle body returning to the closed position when you release the pedal? Wouldn't really explain the fluctuating idle, but worth a quick check none the less.

Was for sale on Ebay about 2 years ago, in an awful state (as if it could get worse).....looked VERY rough, and the photos showed the halfarsed-ness of the stupid pink sprayjob....door shuts not painted, under bonnet not painted etc. iirc it had been painted a few different colours since the Laxpower orange. It's probably one of the only Corrados that I can say that; I hope it's dead and has finally been put out of its misery though!

I'm sure the mech can be got from VW still. They are the same as in early Mk3's etc. I picked on up from fleabay for a few quid: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=270259043601

Welcome to the forum :wave: It's a long neck 22mm spanner you after after to get at the top nut (having said that, mine were 19mm, so its worthwhile checking before investing in any new tools). Either that or a 22mm socket grasped in a vice grips with an Allen key through the centre. There is quite a bit of info on this topic if you do a forum search though! :wink:

I don't think the K-jet is advanced enough to have properly pulsed injectors. It's basically a high pressure pump and a valve (the flap in the airbox) that controls fuel flow relative to the airflow. The injector itself is really only a nozzle to atomise the fuel. But it should be a continuous spray when running, that is drawn into the cylinder when the valve opens for the induction stroke.

Don't really worry too much about it...the pumps aren't very expensive. (assuming it is a 16v you own?) Ideally one from the dealer would be best. But these are silly cheap: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=406

Had a pump die on mine like that. A seal burst on the pulley side, so it started dropping water from behind the pulley itself when running. Wasn't too bad and I made it home and to the dealers for a new pump, while keeping a very close eye on the coolant levels + temp. The pump was actually physically working, but just pissing coolant on the road. Test to see if pump is knackered: if it's streaming water from the bottom of the car, it's fupped. :tongue: Just check to make sure it's not a split hose down beside the pump or the oil cooler though. Also check the thermostat housing and seal.