Dec

Yup, the blue 'cap' is a replacement top-plate. So that sits directly against the top mount.

Most 16's should be ok with the Brembos. I have 16' RX's with mine. You will most prob need spacers with whatever wheel you use though, (16's or 17's). Does the inner diameter of the Borbets clear the caliper? And is it just the outer face of the caliper that's making contact with the inside edge of the Borbets?

I put a 02j shifter from a Seat Ibiza Cupra in mine and it was actually a better fit than the original Corrado shifter!! And I'd imagine it is very similar, if not identical to a mk4 shifter. The actual gear lever to which the knob itself fits, is longer/sits higher than the orig unit. So I trimmed about 4cm from the top of it.

Spacers are pretty easy to come by, and not too expensive, so it's not too big a problem! Having the wheel sitting too far out in the arch as standard is much more difficult to solve! :wink:

Welcome to the forum!! This thread will be useful for you: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=69892 :wink:

Yup, every paint code I've seen has had quite a few different shades, and I was offered about 8 different shades of Tornado red when mine went for a respray. The dark shade that I went for was quite different to some of the lighter shades of the same paintcode too!! :shock:

Voted :wink:

Afraid it's not that easy! All three tabs have to come off the late spec grill, and the two outer ones relocated to the early grill tab position. The top clips will also have to be relocated. :( Then you have the prob/issue that the late spec grilles will sit further forwards than the early grilles. so wont line up flush with the headlights. I've modified a couple of standard late grilles to fit early cars over the last few years.with a careful bit of cutting + glueing they can be made to look right. I don't know if there is a badgeless grille specifically for early spec cars, but it would save a bit of work if there was.

That will be an early / two tab grille + slam panel. (unless your slam panel has been changed at any stage). Try un-clipping your grille and check the mounting holes to be 100% sure! Just be careful when un-clipping the top clips as they snap very easily! :shock:

Basically depends on the age of your car! The early style grille has two tabs at the bottom that mount into the slam panel, the late (3 slat) grilles have three tabs. So a late spec grille wont fit into an early spec slam panel without cutting the tabs off and re-fixing them in the early tab positions. BUT!....some of the early/late changeover cars (i.e the last of the 1.8L's or the first of the 2.0L's) had mounting holes in the slam panel for both early and late grille tabs, so either grille will fit them! :wink:

Yeah, I think labour rates have gone up quite a bit recently! Generally they seem to be around £60 p/h in a standard garage, and I've heard of £90 p/h at a dealer! :shock: It's not too bad a DIY job though, will only cost about £30 in parts, and there will be plenty of info on the forum!

I'd say even £110 is being very optimistic!! Looking at £40'ish for a new belt + tensioner. Then I reckon you'll get charged for about 2hrs labour. Then more if you get the timing set/adjusted. I'd say it will cost about £200-£300

Check the link in shawshankkids post above ^^^^ Definitely different patterns! :wink:

I've kept the orig first-aid kit as a "novelty" item at home, and replaced the one in the car with a kit from Aldi. The plastic case is the exact same size as the VW one and it only cost about £5! 8)

I have that flywheel fitted to a Vr6 clutch with no problems at all! Shipping worked out at around $70 iirc. So total came to about £125 incl delivery! 8)

Didn't think there were two different sizes?! :scratch: I know the flywheel off a Mk2 golf 16v is completely different to a rado, so maybe that's what they were on about? This is the lightweight one I got: http://www.bildon.com/catalog/DetailsList.cfm?ID=10.105.100K&Nav=5 Has unfort gone up by $40 since I bought mine though! :(

I got loads of little random parts from the local dealer (before they became completely inept). They never had a problem with me going in with a list of nuts and washers that only totaled about £5. Never found any that weren't available either.

Well it wasn't too much hassle to do myself. An angle grinder and a mini grinding disk on the dremel came in very handy. The pipe sections themselves were quite reasonably priced, with the current exchange rate too. The main reason that I did it myself was because the car would have to be trailered up to a custom exhaust place otherwise. Would have been talking prob around £300-400 plus another couple of hundred to rent a van + trailer! Plus it's quite satisfying building something like that yourself, and you can be 100% sure it is the shape you want and the clearances are all ok! Well as usual it didn't go as well as I had orig planned. Waiting for some gaskets to show up for the downpipe, before I can really make a proper attempt at getting it running. Got the MS hooked up to try attempt to get the base timing set. All went to plan and I set it up as per the instructions. Got the fuel system pressurised and there were no leaks to be seen. The car made some sort of noises like it was trying to start when I was turning it over, which is pretty good I guess, as there were quite a few sensors disconnected at the time. :clap: But then I noticed it was leaking oil on the ground! :mad2: :mad2: :pale: Turns out the gasket on the water/oil cooler was slightly pinched. So need to get another one fo them from GSF tomorrow morning. I'm away until monday, but need a couple of hours to go through all the wiring + sensors to re-connect everything, and then give it a proper attempt!

Welding didn't come cheap! It was a whole day job to make sure everything was lined up 100% and fitted together properly. Came out at £150 in total.

I ordered a pair of 45 deg + 180 deg mandrel bent stainless steel pipe sections in the US about a year back. Cant remember offhand where I got them from though. (Will need to dig through the pile of receipts to find out.) I then spent ages, cutting and measuring each section to get a pipe that fit down through the narrow gap behind the block. Didn't think it was going to be possible at one stage, but I managed to squeeze it in!

It's probably even quicker to do than pulling a fuse out too! :wink: :lol:

Unplug the spoiler control module! (small black box above the fusebox) Cant remember the part number for it offhand, but it has the likes of "Heckspoiler" written on it. Or else take the trim off the inside of the bootlid. and either unplug the spoiler motor from there, or there is a small plastic knob right in the middle of the mech that rotates when the spoiler moves. If you pull this outwards you can manually move the spoiler by twisting the knob. If you leave it in this "out" position the spoiler motor is disengaged from the mech.

Nope, oil wont conduct; especially for a low amp 12v source like that sender. Chances are that the wire is hanging down somewhere and is in contact with the block etc. Just take a look back there, will most prob take 30 secs to fix! :wink:

Yeah, been going on for ages now! I don't really get enough spare time to actually get much car work done, and it took a good while to research all the bits I needed (and more importantly finance them)! Has cost me a few grand at this stage, but at least I know that pretty much every component in the car is new! :shock:

I wouldn't mind, but I've had the thing in and out a couple of times now! Removed it first to refurb it and fit new wishbones etc etc. Then like a complete muppet I fitted the arb upside-down, and didn't notice until it was installed back in the car, so back out a 2nd time to put that back in properly. Then back out again today! :roll: