Dec

But a pretty damn fugly car! :gag:

Take the trim off the inside of the bootlid and see if anything is obviously wrong there. You shouldn't be able to hear the spoiler motor when it's operating correctly though, so by the sounds of it, it needed re-greasing. There is a knob for manually moving the spoiler right in the middle of the mech. It pulls outwards towards the front of the car, then rotating it raises/lowers the spoiler. Try this and see if it moves freely. Also get a multimeter across the terminals on the motor itself, to make sure it's getting 12v when activated.

I've usually been done for Vat and the usual Parcelforce £10-£15 extortion charge. That diff is still mighty tempting though!

Aren't the reflectors identical for LHD/RHD cars? I think it's the lenses that make the difference. There is no separate part number for LHD/RHD reflectors on Vagcat, and I've been using those ARZ reflectors for ages without any problem with MOt's etc.

I was going to start a thread on the exact same thing a few weeks back! Found a couple of very small innocent looking splits in the underseal on mine in similar places to yours. When I cut the underseal away from around them it turns out that each tiny split turned into a nice little water trap, and there was the start of some nasty rusting in each case! :mad2: :mad2: Luckily mine was purely cosmetic at this stage though. I cut all the underseal that had started to come loose away from around each split. then got a small wire brush and gave the spot a rub down. Treated with two coats of Kurust rust killer, two coats of rust killer primer, two coats of anti-rust primer. Then a couple of coats of graviguard rubberised paint to seal it. I finally painted on a coat of underbody sealant + waxoyl. Definitely worth checking the underside of your car though. I couldn't even see most of the splits in the underseal of mine, until I cleaned it all with some Gunk. :roll:

http://auto-paint.co.uk/carpaint/ Far better paint matches than Halfarts etc. :wink:

aye, the reinforcing weave in the silicone should help prevent the hose completely bursting open too. Any split or hole that ever appears in them should be kept more localised and not tear open as quickly as a standard hose.

It's from a Corrado alright! It's one of the early VW dealer fit mechs fitted before e/w came as standard! Do a search on them, as I remember this coming up once or twice before! :wink:

Do a search for "rear beam bush replacement". Loads of info there. Basically, the bushes are only a couple of quid. they are a right bugger to fit though and ideally need a special tool to fit. I'd leave the garage to do it tbh, but budget about £300-£350 to do the job.

Owning both the passat and Golf manuals, I'd definitely say I prefer/use the Passat manual far more (but I guess that's personal preference). It doesn't over as many variants as the Golf manual, so the write-ups are of much greater detail, and it covers pretty much everything mechanical. Both manuals can be had for about 99p on Fleabay, so worth getting both.

The pink :camp: Passat Haynes manual no. 1647 covers most things, also worth getting the red Mk2 manual too though.

Hard limit on 1.8 valvers is around 7250-7300rpm (of any of the 7 I've owned anyway).....new target for you to aim for! :wink: 8)

So Rob_b got JJ's email address off the bbslmreps website and decided to order via him instead of the usual website ordering method? As his email address is obviously displayed as a contact on the website which you can order bbs reps and he offered to supply said wheel, surely: 1) His email address shouldn't be up there if his ordering method is not actually associated with bbslereps. In which case the fault is with bbslmreps for displaying an incorrect contact email address, of another supplier who has not delivered the wheels in this case? 2) Surely JJ should have pointed him in the direction of the proper bbslmreps website ordering method, instead of accepting an order for a website in which he was not involved? 3) If I ordered from any online website I would hold them 100% responsible if the contact details they published led to a failure to deliver parts due to a 3rd party being involved. I understand that it is not a true 'company' as such, but it seems to have no organisation at all from what I can see!

Most early doorcards are for elec windows anyways, so you should have no prob finding a set!

2nd the Octavia. Convinced my mother to get a VRs TDi, which she picked up a few weeks ago and loves it. (plus I get to play with it too on trips home) Only downside so far has been the daft central locking system on them, that makes it awkward to actually unlock the doors. :scratch:

Gulp......not good.

Yup, easy to do in that case. Just remove the entire orig airbox + metering head + fuel system. The 1.8T fuel rail + fpr, can then be hooked up to the fuel + return lines from the standard 9a fuel pump. You'll need some high pressure fuel hose and fittings to extend the hoses up to the fuel rail, but they are easily available through the likes of demontweeks etc.

Not easy at all! :eek: It would be far easier to do a complete 1.8T 20v engine conversion! Or else use the likes of a Megasquirt ECU to control the EFI system and also control the standard 9a ignition system.

ahhh! Yup, it would suit a 16vt :wink: I think it may need to be modified to fit the 9a....but don't quote me on that :razz: (referring to your other thread) It would be easiest to use the standard 1.8t fuel rail and fpr with that mani too.

Haven't heard of that mod tbh! The 1.8T is a short runner manifold designed for forced induction. It wouldn't suit the 2.0L in na form at all, and would result in a performance drop. The long runners of the standard inlet mani are designed to cause a ram effect and generate a small amount of back pressure.

Just looking at photos of it earlier from a show last weekend (it won first in class) http://vagdrivers.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=18367&st=40 that Campaign also features again! 8)

Aye! Slowly dropping revs can also be caused by a duff overrun-cutoff valve. It's a grey cylinder behind the airbox that has rubber pipe and an electrical connection.

Yeah, those two hoses to the heater matrix cant be used from the samco kits. Handily enough though, the longer of the two superfluous hoses is a perfect replacement for the hose to the bottom of the expansion tank.

Yup, kit includes the oil cooler hoses. :wink:

Check the HIC and Chris Knott insurance links on the main page of the forum :wink: Named drivers on your policy wont lose their NCB if you claim on your policy. Tbh £1200 sounds about right though, I paid that when I first started to insure the rado.