Dec

Yeah, they are the ones. One on either side of where the bolt goes through the fuel pipe. Less than 20p to fix the problem by the looks of it! 8)

Is the fuel leaking out of the pipe itself, or around the bolt? Yup, that's the cold start / 5th injector. Wouldn't say it's a common problem for it to be leaking. But shouldn't be too difficult or expensive to sort out. :wink: Parts list from vagcat: Fuel pipe, part number: 027133660K 19 Euro Bolt: N 90183603 1.25 Euro Washers (x2): N 0138076 0.08 Euro You could probably get the pipe form someone breaking a KR on here.

What happened to that pedants thread?! :lol:

I think it had a standard'ish grey leather interior when it was in pink form and up for sale on Ebay. The leather was in an awful state though, so I imagine its had a complete interior transplant since then.

gsbellew has the uploaded the photos on the first page :wink:

He's putting a lot of effort into selling it by the looks of it. :roll:

It's up for €6500 on Vagdrivers. No idea what the conclusion was, after it was taken/seized from a member on here years back (iirc it was painted blue then?). All sounded a bit dodgy iirc though! :|

Well. It looks petter than when it was pink......but it is still some monstrocity of a thing. It has been pretty seriously neglected over the years (judging by some of the photos on ebay years back, not its current state), and must have been painted 5 different colours at this stage. :roll:

Yup, I had a late bonnet fitted to one of my old early-spec valvers. It didn't look right at all tbh. To get it to fit 'properly', you need: late spec wings, late spec slam panel, late spec headlights + grille etc etc......just not worth it in the end (especially as imho the early bonnet is much better looking than the late :tongue: :lol: )

Yup. It looks like an alarm box alright. It probably has some sort of basic relay based immobiliser built into it. If you can trace the wires from the ignition barrel and see which are cut and connected into the alarm box. If you have a passat/golf haynes manual check the ignition wiring circuit. It should be a thick red wire + a think red/black wire and a thick black wire that will need reconnecting. iirc they are the starter motor and ignition system switched wires.

8) Always loved Oak Green on the Mk2 Golfs.

Yup, looks like you have the top-mount fitted the wrong way up. (don't think that will really effect the amount of thread sticking though though)

hmmmm......I'd stay well away from anything that says "shake well before using" for fear of particles clogging oil-ways. The Wynns stuff is at least 100% oil soluble and contains no particles....but I'd still only think about using it on a daily driver that I didn't really care about, and even then I'd do a proper oil change shortly after.

Yeah, I think general consensus is to stay away from oil additives in general. Having said that; I have used Wynns Hydraulic valve lifter treatment in a few of my old daily drives and it worked wonders in reducing the valve train rattle. :|

If if refuses to come out; just sacrifice the flexi line and chop the top off it, to get iy out from the little support bracket. New flexi lines are under a fiver: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=474

ahhh....that looks like the fitting has come off the end of the solid brake pipe. You should be able to unscrew the hex head copper fitting you have pictured there from the flexi line. Then remove the solid pipe section from the 2nd flexi line (at the rear beam pivot point), and take it down to your local motor factors to get another one made up with new fittings. :wink:

So your flexi-hose has separated from the solid brake line?!?! :shock: :scratch: (it definitely shouldn't!) You're probably best off replacing the two rear flexi lines and the solid brake pipe that's attached to the leg of the rear beam, if it is leaking though. The two flexi lines are quite cheap, and it will only cost a few quid in your local motor factors to get the short section of pipe made up.

Yeah, I heard it mentioned on another forum that it was gone! :(

Neither the bracket or the holding clip were there on my previous flat-benched valver. I remember people doing the conversion in the past had to either weld in a bracket chopped off a donor car, or make up a cusom backet. :cry:

Yup, pretty much what Toady said! I found that I didn't have to completely remove any of the A-B-C pillar trims when I was removing mine. It was simply enough to unbolt the seatbelt attachments from the B-C pllar trims and pull the top half of the trim out. The coat hooks also seem a bit tricky when you first look at them. But aren't really too bad. Just push the top edge of the hook in towards the B-pillar trim and with a bit of force the bottom edge should pop out. Then the plastic cover can be slid off upwards to reveal the screw that holds the bracket on. I'm not sure if you have an early or late spec interior. But for the early. The sunroof motor cover / interior light panel, removes by poping the black light panel out with a flat head screwdriver. This should reveal two screws that secure the sunroof motor panel. With these removed, push the panel towards the front of the car and it should release.

Well, there aren't may wheels that will clear the face of the brembo calipers without spacers. And the RX's do fit over the calipers like BigTartanJudge asked, whereas there are some 16" wheels that the inner radius is too small to clear them.

Yup, they'll fit (just)! I needed 20mm spacers at the front. I went for some H&R "hub extenders", and the quality of them is excellent. That gives about 3mm clearance between the inside of the spokes and the calliper face. I also had to relocate the blance weights off the inside of the wheel face, as they didn't clear the outer edge of the caliper.

Sounds like the the usual mixture/idle probs that you can get with 9a's. Try doing a search on the forum for 'lumpy idle', as there's quite a bit already on here about it. Also try disconnecting the two 2-pin plugs on the engine side of the metering head. And see how it runs. As it will go into a 'default' mode with these unplugged. I think the connection on the gearbox that you mentioned is the plug for the cable drive for the speedo, and the induction pick-up on the 4th lead worked with a knock sensor. Surely the engines 'position + speed sensor' is via the hall sender + dizzy.

It's quite cool looking alright! The front 2/3 has very similar lines to a Corvette C3 Stingray, and the rear 1/3 has a similar 'V' profile to the C2 Stingray.

Well....I got a reply from the guy at Four-season-tuning. Doesn't really answer the question at all though!