Dec

Yup, the standard front arb will physically fit upside down, but will foul the track rods (and reduce clearance to the downpipe) when fitted that way. So could be the same case for the Weitec

Is it hitting the track-rods? Silly question, but are you sure you haven't fitted it upside-down?

There's a silver/gold coloured metal cap right in the centre of the disk. With a bit of persuasion, this pulls straight off, revealing a nut + locking pin & the outer bearing. Once you have this nut removed the disk will pull straight off.

Well...we all know that Mclaren are prone to a bit of cheating and are the whiniest team on the grid....so it all balances out! :lol: :lol: Last years points system is only a few years old...and I think it was a pile of carp too! Gave WAY too many points to 2nd + 3rd places etc.....The previous: 10, 6, 4, 3, 2, 1 system was pretty good imho (and Hamilton wouldn't have won under that system either :razz: ). I think a point for fastest lap (like you used to have back in the 50's) should have been introduced to that system and it would be perfect.

Yup....I really think A1GP has the potential to be quite good too. It's just a pity it's only on Sky though, so most people cant actually watch it. :?

Cool video! 8) I really don't agree with making the engines last multiple races though.....F1 is supposed to be a high performance sport, not an endurance one! The aero regulations are such a massive change that some of the small teams will be caught out as they cant invest the massive amounts required to design a completely new aero package. The idea is to level the playing field by making the cars aerodynamics more simplistic....but the bigger teams with the bigger budgets will always be able to find the loop-holes in the regulations, and come out with a novel aero component. The only way to truly level the playing fields, and introduce a easy/cheap way of generating massive amounts of downforce is to re-introduce proper ground-effect cars (which would also help to reduce the intensity of the wake of the cars & therefore help overtaking too).

I picked up a 2nd hand set of seats for a few quid and butchered them for the good inner bolster from each seat. These inner bolsters were pretty much as good as new, as they get almost no wear on the inside edge of the seat; so I just swapped over the sides (so used the passenger side inner bolster from the donor seats on the drivers side outside bolster of the good seats and vv). Fresh 'good as new' bolsters for the £10 it cost me for and old set of front seats! 8)

The metal 'sheet' that is rusted through in your photos is separate to the actual crossmember. You can see how it attaches to the chassis once the crossmember is removed. Just a note: You should support the crossmember with something like a jack when you have removed the two main bolts on either side! When they are out it is only the small middle bolt supporting the front of the engine, and that bolt only secures to the top section of that rusty sheet!

iirc VW supply a larger diameter bolt + tap kit to solve this prob. You'll still have to drill out the old bolt, then re-tap the captive nut. Try doing a forum search for it, as I think the same prob came up a few years back. :wink:

Well, the easiest way to rule out those senders is to swap the plugs around on the three of them. They are all identical so if one is acting up it may be easier to spot that way. Also, measuring the resistance on each as the engine warms up could be useful. Just to check that the warm up regulator etc. are being switched off as the engine gets up to temp.

The single sender at the back of the head is the oil temp sender for the mfa reading. The single 'fat' sender on the lhs is the fan over-run thermo switch and should read 0 when the engine is cool. It keeps the rad fan running for a few mins after you shut the engine off. I wouldn't worry about the 0.2 ohms variation on one of the senders on the side of the head. They aren't the most precise sensors in the world, and that sort of variation is pretty small in comparrison to the overall resistance range. I have data for one of those sensors that I calibated between -5 deg and 100deg. I'll try and find where I noted it down.

In no real order: 1) DeTomaso Mangusta 2) Lamborghini Diablo GTR 3) Ferrari 250 GTO 4) Lancia Delta Integrale Evo 5) BMW 507 6) Lancia Stratos 7) Mercedes CLK-GTR 8) Lamborghini Miura SV 9) 1970 Datsun 240Z

Why would the Vr6 be over 10cm wider at the wingmirrors?!? Yup, it has a wider wheelbase, and slightly wider front wings than the early spec cars. But aren't the shell + doors + wingmirrors the same => exactly the same width? :scratch:

Welcome to the forum! :wave: The rubber (or they are sometimes made of a compressed foam) bushing at the point where the cable attaches to the accelerator pedal is probably worn. A new one will only cost a few pennies form the dealer. OR else I picked up one in GSF a few years back for about 50p This is the GSF part number you are after: And the VW part number is: It also costs under a quid! :wink:

It covers the sliding bar on the door-stay mech (the little friction bar in at the door hinge that keeps the door held open when you open it etc.) It just clips back on over the bar itself, to keep dirt off the greased mech. But it isn't crucial.

that's the photo I was thinking of when I put up my first post. :lol:

The top of the gear stick is probably about 4-5cm higher than the top of the orig stick. :wink:

I got a shift mech from a 02j Bora. It's a direct fit with no modifications required at all. (if anything it's even a better fit than the orig 02a shift mech). The only thing taht I reckon I'll change is the lenghth of the shift lever itself, as it's bit long. I'll try dig out the details for it in the morning.

I've seen a few people use roof-racks on their Corrado for things like surfboards, giant piles of wood etc. seems sensible enough to me! :tongue:

Yup. I'm in clapham, on the MK side of Bedford! So you are more than welcome to call over at any stage to discuss all things rado! :tongue: afaik, he does any sort of small jobs. He probably has some sort of min call-out charge. But could be worth asking! :wink:

:lol: didn't notice that pic of my car on the site! It's looking a bit sorry for itself, without one of the headlights and grille though! :( tbh I chose that company over a usual car transporter as the type of trailer they use is a low height and can be fully tilted to get the car on. So my rado went on the trailer no problem, even with only a few cm clearance on the 90mm spoiler on the front! Every other time I've tried to get a car with low ground clearance on a 'transit van' type transporter it has almost torn the spoiler / sump off! :( I was charged £59 to move the car from West Lon up to Bedford (65 miles'ish), which I thought was very reasonable! 8)

I had to get the rado moved up to my new house, so was dreading getting it on and off a transporter, with its low ground clearance. Anyways after a bit of searching I found this small company that specialises in sports / classic car transportation. Small company run by a guy called Terry, who's big into his VW's. Got my pretty severely lowered rado onto the trailer no problem, without even scraping the front spoiler at all! The price came out a lot lower than I was expecting too! Could possibly be of use to someone in future? http://www.thecarshipenterprise.co.uk

Kit received this morning, and I just fitted it this evening! Top quality part, thanks! :salute:

:lol: :lol: By a whole three minutes by the looks of it! I must be getting slow! I did beat you to the part number for the washers though! :lol: :tongue:

iirc they were just standard'ish copper type washers on mine. The banjo bolt should just come straight out with a 10mm(?) socket. I'd remove it after the car hadn't been running for a while, and have a cloth ready below the pipe to catch any fuel that leaks out. Also, disconnect the battery, to remove any chances of sparks.