Dec

Well, first of all check the level of the fluid in your brake fluid resivoir, to see if the system is physically leaking fluid. Check the flexible hose that goes to the slave cylinder ontop of the gearbox for leaks, then check the underside of the gearbox for fluid leaks at the clutch/flywheel housing end. that would suggest the slave cylinder is dead. It could also be the clutch master cylinder that's gone though. I'd recommend getting either the master of slave cylinder from VW. But they are available in the likes of GSF:

Probably your clutch master cylinder / slave cylinder has given up the ghost. :(

Nope...not a big fan of them at all. The RS bumper does sit a lot lower than the standard bumper. So it does look a bit unbalanced when you compare the height of the bottom of the RS bumper to the bottom of the sills, especially when you look from the side of the car. I'd maybe use some very subtle side skirts to balance things out a bit, I think those ones are a bit too bulky and square though. (all IMHO obviously :dorky: )

Ouch!.....There's not really a whole lot you can do to repair them I'm afraid. :shock: I failed an mot on the yellow backing showing through the reflectors a few years back. We found a few places that can "re-chrome" plastic, but it worked out to be cheaper just to buy a new reflector. :gag:

Nope. 305mm disks + Brembo calipers from an Ibiza Cupra are 4x100, 315mm disks from a Leon Cupra are 5x100. Afaik the calipers are the same, but obviously different carriers are needed for the different sized disks :wink:

Yup, it goes through a small indent in the balljoint arm, so the bj wont budge without the bolt being removed. Try soaking the bolt in plenty of plusgas/wd40 overnight to see if it loosens it up!

There has been a bit of talk about this recently! The price of Vr6's seems to have dropped a lot...there also seems to be loads of them for sale at the moment. So that wont help when selling. Valvers seem to have hit their low point and prices seem to be staying pretty level (if not increasing very slightly) over the last year.

There was a cat-C VR6 listed here for 2k afaik. And it sold pretty quickly (outside the forum) Obviously it would depend on the cars spec and history, but I wouldn't have thought you would have to sell it for much under 2k

I think he means changing the hydraulic master + slave cylinders for a clutch cable arrangement that's used on a lot of earlier VW's. I agree that the cable mech is brilliant for its pure simplicity. I imagine it would be a complete gearbox, pedal box, clutch and flywheel swap to actually get it to work though! The likes of cable clutched Mk2's use a completely different flywheel arrangement. i.e, not really worth it.

Prob have a negative effect on performance tbh. The usual swap is to put Kr cams in a 9a head, as the Kr cams have higher lift + duration (iirc)

Found a nice bulge in mine when I went to bleed the circuit yesterday. This one: part no. 357721465A According to Vagcat it's a common corrado part for all years + engines, but I cant seem to find anywhere that sells them! :shrug: The dealers is a bit of trek away and a pain in the butt to deal with when there, so would prefer not to have to make the trip a couple of times for the sake of a small hose! So, anyone know of anywhere else that they can be got? Or anyone have one in good nick available on a breaker etc? :wink:

ahh....well it's not a "standard" valver anymore. :wink:

Yup, and early/late fogs aren't interchangeable, so those early ones won't be of much use to you, I'm afraid.

Me too, I'm seriously considering getting rid of the Mondeo and getting a Vr as a daily drive (as I really don't do that much mileage anymore), and keep the valver for weekends :nuts: :cuckoo: I've had 7 rados over the last five years though, and all of them have been valvers! :lol: :lol:

Hmmm looks like a Leon with a bodykit to me. Not really my cup of tea, but I'd have to say that it is probably better than the Scirocco mk4 (or mk3 depending on which way you look at it) that they have come up with!! :roll:

P.S Sorry Jim :lol: :lol: Yes, I wished my rado was nippier too especially since I got whooped in a straight drag race off the line (only to 70mph) by some sort of faily standard looking Clio! :mad2: :roll: :sad:

hmmm it's not really being pedantic in fairness, the aim of the game is to increase Mass Air Flow, which in this case is created by increasing the pressure in the intake, as you suggested. But it's not as simple as purely increasing pressure, as a simple pressure increase is dependent on too may factors before it will actually cause an increase in mass flow at the cylinder. E.g. a large pressure increase before a restriction (such as something like a nozzle) in the intake will cause a velocity increase and a pressure decrease after the restriction, but still have the same mass flow.

As I've found out myself, it's a hell of a lot more work that I initially anticipated!.....actually bolting the turbo and pipework on is only a tiny fraction of the work that needs to be done! There'a a lot of custom made parts that need to be made to actually get everything to even fit together properly. Put it this way, I've just spent £100(ish) on oil lines + fittings for the turbo as I wasn't completely happy with how the ones that were installed fitted. There are LOADS of small little components like that, which all add up!

Yup, the sucking idea could definitely be good for removing convected hot air from the engine bay! and is nice and easy to implement, as you suggested! 8)

Good thinking! 8) ......but I'd use the pipe the other way around. It's mainly going to be radiant heat from the manifold, so sucking air away from the area wont do a whole lot to reduce overall temperatures. But ducting cold air towards the manifold etc could be beneficial.

You really have the opposite problem with the rest of the pipework. when you come off the throttle, the throttle valve closes, but he turbo is still producing boost as it starts to spin down. The airflow cant flow into the inlet manifold, causing pressure waves that travel backward through the inlet piping to the turbo, causing it to stall. It's the problem that bov's attempt to resolve. They basically release the pressure caused by the closing of the throttle plate, so the turbo can keep spinning freely.

I think the three single pin sensors are on the 1.8L Kr head only, and are replaced with a two pin sensor and one single pin sensor (for the temp gauge afaik) on the 2.0L's. Still worth checking them though! :wink: Having a similar prob on a mate of mines 2.0L that we haven't got to the bottom of yet. But this thread is worth a look: http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=62564&hilit=2.0+16v+idle

Sweet, that looks excellent! 8)

Heated, or standard? Standard grey leather is prob worth about £400 in good nick. I'd emphasize the fact that the bolster is worn to try and negotiate a few quid off though.

It wasn't quite as easy as dynamat to cut to shape (but that wasn't a big problem really), went on pretty easily, and was quite easily moulded around corners and into gaps etc. Haven't had the car on the road with it fitted yet, but it did make a nice difference to the performance of the front speakers, and the doors make a lovely 'clunk' nose when closed now. The actual sound deadening properties are up online somewhere if you google it, and they seem to compare well with other brands.