bcstudent

*EDIT* Double post...sorry

185 on an 8 inch rim....sounds dangerous!

I have a Momo Race steering wheel in my Corrado that I just measured at 345mm. I have no clock blocking issues at all.

I've never seen any evidence of working heated mirrors on my bag o' shite....how do you turn them on exactly?! *EDIT*...ignore that, just read the rest of the post

The game is available on the BitTorrent network for all those who wish to make a "backup" their original copy.....which isn't available yet. I was gonna post the .torrent file but it didn't seem like a good idea.

I'm sorry to hear of your loss...sounds like a perfect time to upgrade to a VR6.....

ON - without a doubt

That's a good point. I know a guy who's looking for a driver's side rear 1/4 at the moment for a '93 VR6. In fact he's only really after the arch.

My local scrappy actually pays a fiver for a car shell.....however, the fee to pick it up with a Hiab is £25. Still a bargain. The only thing they insist on is an empty fuel tank and they won't take tyres away due to the grief of disposing of them. They aren't bothered about plastic bumpers or anything else.....so I usually take the opportunity to fill the car up with junk from the garage/shed too!

It's common for the lift pump in the tank to fail, which causes the main pump to sound like it's knackered. Make sure you change the right one as there's a significant cost difference between the two. The fuel filter is straight forward to change. There's a banjo bolt at each end and a clamp that holds the filter to the main pump assembly. It's way easier if you have access to a pit or a hydraulic car lift for a short while. Expect to get petrol everywhere so just be cautious of setting fire to the whole lot, i.e. smoking/welding/grinding/etc in the vicinity is probably not a good idea. :roll: After the filter has been changed it's likely that the car will take several seconds to start as the system will need time to re-prime.

Seems like the wrong time of year to remove any wiping component!

Do you really feel that a 5000 mile running in period is entirely necessary? My running in procedure follows that of the link in Gavin's post, i.e. not threashing it to within an inch of it's life, but warming up properly and not being afraid to use a bit of throttle. I do,however, agree that regular oil changes are a must - especially the first at around 500 miles.

On the subject of the thrust bearing......is the VR6 gearbox similar in design to the 16v? i.e. can you replace the thrust bearing without removing the gearbox?

R.I.P.

The filler cap in that Armourfend picture is on the wrong side....God I'm bored

That's a good price

I have the FKs and I love 'em - they're light smoke/red though

A big thank you to davebirl for the smooth sale of his FK rear lights. Well happy with 'em.

"Watch for usual VW stuff, electrical system, CV Joints"......do what? Can't say I've ever had any problems with these areas of VWs in the last nine years. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I think it's more likely that it's not true. "IMHO most body kits ruin the cars lines, in fact i would not fit one."....finally some sense.

Blimey....the 20 significant cars they've sold in the past is quite impressive too. I mean, where would you lay your hands on the "1997 Ferrari 310B Michael Schumacher Monaco Winner" in the first place????

My 17s have destroyed the ride quality of the car (on standard suspension) and I'm going back to standard A.S.A.P. If you wanna keep your fillings in place go for the 16s....unless you live on a racetrack of course! It's gonna be a shame to see the 17s go because they look superb...*sigh*

Looking forward to that! Nice one.

I find leeks go very well with cheese sauce :roll: (sorry)

I assume you've checked the fuse - a dumb question I know, but since the heated screen itself and the lamp in the switch are powered via the same fuse it has to be the first question.