kdub

Should be a like button on here :thumbleft:

I feel your pain Jim. I hate it when things like this happen. I am by no means a car mechanic (Aero Gas Turbine Engineer)and will attempt anything and will pretty much get it right regardless of whats in front of me. However, I have learned over the years that even with the skills and knowledge regardless of level, some things are best left to the professionals (even then it doesn't go right). The simple things like general service items are fine, but when it comes to major rework now I would rather not take 30 hours of my own time to do something that can be done in 8 with the right tools and workshop to carry out the task. We all are guilty of trying to save a bit of money and budgets are always limited. But we live and learn, move on and always come back for more lol.

Never got back to this. Car passed no problems at all. Grand total of 98 miles covered since last years MOT. However, already covered 80 in the past 3 days. Aiming to get a 1000 on it this year. Had a good look underneath and not a mark at the minute and still super clean apart from the tank straps and a couple of light surface markings on the rear beam. So plans to tidy those up over the next few months. Along with a wet sand and polish. Still got loads to put on the car before next summer so that I can really enjoy it.

Hey Michael, not sure your still getting your private messages. Will send you another one with my phone number mate so we can get everything sorted. Cheers Kev.

Welcome mate.

Went through this myself recently. Bled the slave cylinder (down at the gearbox) ensuring that the fluid is overfilled from the start. This improved the bite point a little bit. However, what I did notice was that the pedal flapped about at the very top of the stroke by about 1" regardless. A few weeks later the peddle dropped to the floor. So changed slave cylinder with no joy, then changed the master. bled it and instant perfection. No more droopy peddle and the bite point was about half way down.

http://www.f-inbigbrakes.co.uk/billet_4.htm The 300mm kit for a mk3 golf at 675 might be of interest. The also do a 4 pot 285 specific kit for 480 quid. http://www.f-inbigbrakes.co.uk/monster_4.htm The 310kit for corrado 830 quid Seems genuine as it is Hi spec motorsports kits.

Gents, back in the 90's when ICE was huge I was particular to the odd 2-3000W install here and there (cracked the odd rear window or 3). Forget your 6x9's. Also forget that your head unit is say a 4x50W unit as it will have a continuous output of maybe 5-10W before the head units amp signal starts to degregate and the speakers start to flutter. Usually it is not the speakers that give out. It's the signal they are getting that causes the distortion. More expensive speakers have a little more control and mask the problem a little better hence the higher volume and fuller sound. Always focus on Front for clarity mid/treble and concentrate bass (anywhere in the car) to fill it out. Ideally a matched pair of front speakers/Class D 4 channel amp setup and a small sub will blow high end MODERN car sound systems out the water. It also doesn't cost too much to have a very very decent setup that will fill the car even at low volumes. 4 Channel amp with 2 channels bridged. Ideally Class D 4 x75-100W which will give you 2 x 35-50W clean continuous (blow your ears off) and a bridged mono channel of around 100W continuous which will rattle your bones bass wise if so required. There are other ways such as a small 2 channel amp to feed some 6x9's and using your head unit to power the front. This will give you similar quality to high end Audi or Mercedes level sound systems. Its not the speakers in the car that does this, it is usually a higher grade head unit which puts out a much higher continuous sound with a multitude of speakers to give a fullness. Even something like this would be a major improvement with a decent set of front speakers connected just to the head unit with the bass set at 0 and treble 50% or above. No rear speakers connected and an RCA lead and power supply to the small under seat sub will sound just fine for the average guy wanting a full sound in the car. http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-in-phase-usw10_p-25817.htm

Getting ready for its MOT tomorrow. Checked all over the car. Replaced a tyre that showed signs of cracking due to lack of use with a near new rainsport supplied from the forum. Found a few things. Water supply tube to nearside windscreen washer split (replaced) Wiper blades dragging. Brakes a bit tight (Drove the car about for 30 mins or so gently working the brakes until they freed up perfectly) Blew the fog light fuse a few times :( . Inspected all the wiring and could find no fault in either front/rear fog light switches or main light switch. Fuse 10 kept popping. So removed the fog lights and again found no fault in the wiring. So decided to disconnect both front FOGS for the time being. All taped up sound and secure. Put a 10amp fuse in (no 15's left in the garage) just to test and had no issues. Rear FOG lights up fine. So need to trace the engine wiring and replace the front elements just in case there is a fault there. Might work out the in rush current to each fog light and put an inline fuse in there so that blows identifying the faulty lamp in the future. So off to halfords tonight with trade card in hand to get some additional fuses, wiper blades and screen wash. Tomorrows plan is to wash and clean out the car in the morning. Replace all the wiper blades and head for the MOT in the afternoon.

Rain sports are good alround tyres that excell in the wet on the Vr6 Bridgestones RE002 better in the dry with awesome wear on the 2.8 golf mk4 Goodyear F1 assymetrical. Excellent in the dry, predictable in the wet on the 3.2 Audi but are not lasting.

That was ChrisL's car I would say. Only a handful like that in the country.

There is a very good one for sale that was owned by kip on here. Had everything done to it to make it a very clean example and comes with some very expensive leather recaros. Way under your budget as well. But 138000 miles.

Hell yeah

A diamond in the rough is worth 3-4K all day long and might need a few grand spent on it to get it into a good clean standard condition. For a super clean standard car with the right modifications (reliability improvements) will go for 4-5k in my opinion with a good history and low mileage. When you start getting into the true OEM+ look with very subtle and tasteful mods using good quality after market stuff I.e suspension, brakes, interior retrimmed etc etc then I would say 6-7k. Then for the show winning cars it all depends on how far it's went. But those numbers are very car specific and can run pretty high.

Turbos are driven off the manifold itself. So everything down stream of there is fine. Personally a full system cat back with a sports cat will keep it flowing well without being too loud.

The ebay one looks nice. If it has plenty of history it's a good price for the condition judging by the photos. Although the red valver on autotrader has a soft spot for me. Reds my favourite colour lol.

Will take this off you boss. Will do fine on the spare speedline.

Where abouts in Glasgow. Was up there today as well. Will double check that's what I'm after to replace a perished tyre.

Clear your inbox Michael. Can't send you a PM from sunny Ayr.

AN EXCELLENT BIT OF SOFTWARE for grabbing youtube videos etc and allowing you to save them to your device. http://clipgrab.org Go to that link and select English as language. Then download the software (FREE). Now copy and paste the youtube address into the search bar and Grab Clip (Select mp4 Format). You will have in a few minutes the entire video saved to your hard drive for your viewing pleasure.

Welcome to the club from sunny Ayrshire. We definitely need to organise a Scottish meet for all the corrado owners. Slowly but surely gaining in numbers.

You think that's bad lads. I get 10 to the gallon in my daily driver (v8 pickup). So roughly 40-45 miles for 20 quid normalish driving lol 60 miles maybe on a cruise along the motorway. Best run that I have managed so far is Dundee and back which is approx 220 mile journey which it just went into the red on a 100 litre tank. So about 2 miles to the pound lol Makes the VR6 seem like its free to run as the fuel gauge stays in the same position for more than 10 mins.

Very common problem and I think over 100 quid for the genuine parts hence why so many guys retrofit a full sunroof and mechanism from another vag car such as Passat b4 that are reliable. Even after repair I think it happens again and again. Mine is broke just now and was looking to change it out at some point

Seen some of there work and it's first class. Same with one of the trimmers in Glasgow. Some epic stuff and not cheap shiny finishes that you get with most. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Optimus-Automotive-Trimmers-UK/1396385493908584?sk=photos_stream&ref=page_internal

Touch ups in Glasgow. They are well known in the Volkswagen scene and do plenty of high end cars / show winning cars. https://www.facebook.com/Touch-Ups-108511155891859/timeline/?ref=ts