kdub
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Everything posted by kdub
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mk1 GTI for sale - takes me back - what do you wish you'd not let go?
kdub replied to davidwort's topic in General Car Chat
My 1.8 Golf Driver on a J plate with 37000 miles back in 1998. First VW at 18 years old. Fuse box went and I sold it on for buttons. Was super clean being only 6 years old and would have been an ideal daily nowadays. Also my mk2 Tornado Red 8V. 2nd keeper with 83000 on it in 2002 and I kept it until 2010 with only 106000. Although I had put it off the road for 3 years and it started to rot. Would have been another good one for the collection. Sold it for buttons again. -
Welcome mate. Good seen another one going back on the road.
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Adrian Flux, Thank you very much, i cant reccomend them enough.
kdub replied to bendunstan's topic in Insurance
Age 33 . 15 years driving with no claims or convictions. Classic policy. Agreed 3500 value with all mods declared and a 5000 mile limit per annum. 133.51 through Adrian Flux. -
Stainless Steel OE look exhaust.. Anyone interested?
kdub replied to VR6Pete's topic in Group Buy Feelers
would be interested in this as well. -
Well, officially owned the rado for one year now. Done just under 4k at enjoyed every minute. Been a blast. Only a set of plugs, leads and a good service over the past year. Still have big plans but been so busy with work (away from home) that I haven't had the time. Now moving house in the next week or so and concentrating on that. Downside to the past year was the misses had her MK4 Golf V6 written off by a careless white van man. So looking out for a nice MK5 GTI/R32 at the minute so no spare pennies. Still researching tons of options for wheels, suspension and possible engine mods. Really fancy turning her into a beast to whip all the modern hot hatches out there whilst keeping that OEM look.
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Good luck dude. Took me longer to find the right car and it ended up only 10 miles from home and a forum member to boot.
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Well finally brought the VR out the other week for its first few runs of the year since the salt on the roads has calmed down up here in sunny Scotland. (Replaced a fuse on the fog lights). Reckon it blew after putting a new battery in. Good thorough wash, polish and wax. So after putting a grand total of 60 miles on her it was time for a good service. Ordered some leads from Dubpower as one was shorting against the head. (Cheers guys spot on service). Booked her in for a good service. Had the following done at 69,000 odd miles. Engine oil replaced / Filter (Fully synthetic). New K&N Panel filter Brake fluid changed and full brake service. Hand brake tightened etc. Clutch fluid changed and bled NGK plugs & Dubpower leads fitted. Timing checked all ok (sorted out the little miss fire at 1500rpm) All fitted, parts and labour (minus leads) for 170 quid. Big thanks to Jason at Deutschetech in Ayr. Stood and chatted for a while about the car. Also about some scirrocos we have both been looking at on ebay (still fancy one). Light knocking coming from NSR suspension. Turns out to be a leaky strut so currently looking at a suspension and mount upgrade. Any suggestions would be appreciated guys. Looking for a subtle drop and slightly sportier ride whilst maintaining some sort of comfort. Budget around 600-800 quid for parts. Next weeks plans are to detail the interior as it has been 6 months almost since the last one. So that will keep me busy for a good day.
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Quick basic demonstration as why bigger brakes stop your car quicker in certain conditions. 60mph. Say you need 150nm of clamping force to lock up the wheels. Small brakes = 50% pedal travel due to difference in clamping force/torque of smaller diameter discs Big brakes = 40% pedal travel That alone = faster braking time due to less pedal movement although we are taking 1/10ths of a second here it still equates to a distance of a body in motion. Better example through torque/clamp force Now continue with the same theory of clamping force/torque. Say the maximum force is 200nm for the little brakes and 250nm for the bigger due to the additional torque that can be applied due to the larger diameter of the rotor. Now at 100mph it will take more clamping force to lock those brakes up due to additional dive in the suspension and aerodynamics. So hypothetically if your doing 100mph and you require 225nm of clamping force the smaller brakes CANNOT take advantage of all the available mechanical traction for given suspension/tyre combination. That brief period where the smaller brakes can not apply the maximum amount of torque to use all the available mechanical grip is where the car with the bigger brakes wins. On a back to back test with the same car etc it is the initial bite higher torque and the speed that it bites (less pedal travel required)where the braking distance shootout would be won or lost. Again we are talking fractions of a second but in a braking test from 60-0 it could be as much as say 5 metres. But on a 100-0 it could be say 3 times that which in a race situation is a lot. Take that onto a track and for any given corner speed I will be able to brake later than you with the little brakes hence making up time. Now bigger brakes have there disadvantages as well. With the additional torque it can be harder to modulate your brakes at slower speeds. But in motorsport applications that is why you change the master cylinder piston diameters to change the feel and modulation whilst still having the required amount of maximum torque vs mechanical grip available.
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Must add, it is completely standard apart from the subtle mods Toohot carried out such as the late dash and heated leather. All I have done so far is put my old Pioneer DEH head unit in and some Focal performance 2 way (can't remember the number) front speakers.
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Well finally got the new car home. Purchased this very clean and low mileage example from fellow forum member TooHot. So gave the car a good cleaning using only meguire's products. Started off with the leather, then dash, good thorough clean outside followed by a bit of trim Gel. It is looking a good bit better. Next is to finish claying, polishing and sealing the paintwork (half way there). Once it is all done and detailed will add some more pictures. Once the basic paintwork is done it will be time to start on the subtle modifications (still in the planning stage) for a nice OEM+ look.
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Welcome from sunny Ayr.
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Will do. 40 miles tonight. Took it for a good run, went for dinner with the family now all tucked up. Hopefully get some nice weather next week to put it through it's paces. GoPro HD2 will be getting clapped on it to catch some of that lovely VR6 roar. Time for a nice wee VR6 edit.
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Well, hopefully picking it up today. Been a long week lol.
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Hi Emu. Seen a few nice rado's in Aberdeen over the last few months. Done a fair bit of work up their this year.
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Hey guys and gals. Is their any local meets for the Corrado. Well within an hour of Ayr.
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Lol. ---------- Post added at 9:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:42 AM ---------- It is very very clean and straight. Not many about in this condition. Like any 20 year old car though it needs a few bits and bobs to finish it right off but to be honest the most important things are you could eat your dinner off of the underside of the car and no signs of rust. Oh and everything works (bar the heater) but should be all sorted for this weekend. ---------- Post added at 9:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:44 AM ---------- Spot on. Not into heavily modifying cars, but OEM+ looks certainly goes down well and as you say all easily reversible or changed without to much fuss.
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Possibly and a roof rack as well. Old school.
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Head into the for sale section on here. Check out the silver VR and bobs your uncle my man. ---------- Post added at 9:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:38 PM ---------- Wheels, exhaust, suspension and a whole lot of detailing. Then we will see where it goes from there.
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Had a few of these. The misses has one for her daily driver which I take for the odd blast. She bought it with 50 thousand and now has 87k on it. Fitted with 18" alloys with 10mm spacers on rear, cat back resonated system and just about to have some weitec gt's put on it. Been faultless apart from anti roll bar bushes and drop links which these cars are quite sore with. Change the oil every year and haldex oil/filter every other. Averages 29-31 to the gallon and she drives it fairly quickly. Secret to the 24v engine is to keep it up between 2-3k rpms, use the box not the torque and lightly on the throttle. Acceleration is quicker than the majority around you and the car reckons it does 18-21. Lug the motor or over rev it and that drops quickly down to 11/12mpg. Once up to speed a bit of defensive driving i.e. big gap between you and the car in front and really staying smooth with the throttle will see 29 to low 30's all day every day average. A good motorway run will see 34/35 on a good day. Comparing it to R32's mk4'S that I have had it is better on fuel, much more comfortable and has 95% of the performance for half the money. Leaving the same price as the car to do what you like to it before you run into R32 money. Plus point as well is it is a street sleeper as nobody outside of the VAG scene knows what it really is. The first one I had, I changed the anti roll bars, poly bushed it, weitec suspension kit and some sticky tyres. That thing handled excellently and all done for around 1100 quid at the time. Bought that car for 7k and the R32 i sold before I bought it went for 12k. So was still around 4k up. There are a few cracking ones out there and if you constantly watch ebay etc you do find the odd 40-50k car come up for 3.5-4k which you would be looking at 8k plus for the same mileage R32.
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That would be telling easypops lol. ---------- Post added at 5:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:54 PM ---------- Anne, it is the best I have seen for a long while. Can't wait to get my teeth stuck into it.
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Well finally dipped my toes into the Corrado world. Had a few Golf V6's/R32's in the past and to be honest wasn't looking for another V. Have been looking for nigh on a year for a clean MK1/MK2 but unfortunately the second hand world has turned to crap with lots of cars described as mint needing thousands spent on them. But just happened to browse the right classifieds at the right time and found a members car for sale that looked nice and clean and exactly what I was looking for (even though I didn't know it). So hopefully shall be dusting the roads in the car this weekend as long as it is dry. Hoping to finish of what is a low mileage clean car into something worth keeping for a long long time. Anyway, live in Ayrshire and hope to meet a few fellow/fellowess's and hopefully some further a field when the shows kick off next year. Kev.