andyhudson

you got standard shocks and springs?

have you got a set of standard shock and springs in good working order?

You got a set of standard shocks and springs?

I am in need of some standard vr6 shocks and springs. Bordeaux pearl driver wings and door in good condition. think LCY3 is the colour code. and its a 92 later style body. also if any one has a shell there scraping I would like the passenger floor pan cutting out if its not rusted. I am from burnley area if anyone has a breaker.

looking to install bigger brakes at some point but dont have money to purchase yours right now so was just wanting to know for reference for when i am looking

Was just interested in knowing what car these are of?

is there anything you have to do/fit because obd2 has an extra oil channel? cheers and ill have a look at the thread. one last thing did you source the new valves, stems, seals and so on yourself just wondering where you used if so

is there anything you have to do/fit because obd2 has an extra oil channel? cheers and ill have a look at the thread. one last thing did you source the new valves, stems, seals and so on yourself just wondering where you used if so

i know this is sold but it saves me starting up a new thread for one question as you seem knowledgeable. i have a 92 vr6 dizzy engine, i thought the head were different between dizzy and coilpack but from what i just read from yourself it seemed like you was saying the head is the same and just the timing cover different correct? im after a head to port and polish and this would make things easier in finding a head if that is correct how i have understood it.

Great build any more updates?

just wondered how you went on with the green led bulbs, just about to do the tinting on mine so need to sort bulbs out

Ive had a oil and water leak for a while now and decided it needs to get done before winter roles in. ino that the water leak was from elbow on top of the rad but im replacing crack pipe and thermostat housing with geniune ones. looks like im replacing radiator as well now as 2 rows on the core have inflated and twisted the frame, whilst it may not be there that is leaking seems silly not to replace now seeing as its a ball ache of a job. so i've got all the slam and bumper off and radiator now and its a proper mess with oil everywhere. with it being so bad i havn't been able to say for sure where the leak is from so i have decided to replace the oil cooler o rings and the 2 pipes and if i clean the engine up then any more leaks will be visible. whats the best way of cleaning it with out everything going tits up when i try and start it? i do have a full tin of gunk, is it good enough to brush that on and hose pipe it off?

i checked my exhaust and felt that it had enough clearance on small bumps for sure not to be it and that only on harsh bumps and near full travel it would hit. ill have alook at brake lines but i think there fairly well routed. well i swapped the shocks over and 5 mile down road the knocking come back and it was on the right hand side now, shock dead? im confused why it doesn't do it straight away though anyone know how much it is to have konis refurbished?

i saw a thread on here of a lad who just chopped the bottom out and welded in a piece of 6mm steel and filled it with water to test it and then even put a extra sheet of 4mm steel on as well and that worked fine for him and by the looks of the pictures it took some real abuse

well ive polybushed the beam so i know them bushes are good. i have been tempted to swap the shocks over and see if the noise changes sides. i suppose im trying to avoid that as then ill have to admit i need to dip into my pocket and get new coilovers or refurb these. also does anyone know the torque figure for the nut on topmounts?

The car is lowered on koni adjustable coilovers, and for a while now i have had a knocking noise the on the left rear only. With being busy i didn't have time to get down to the cause striaght away. First of all i was pritty sure it was the heat shield banging so i put new clips on that and got it sorted but no change. Next i found my middle exhaust hanger broke so though surely it has to be that so i welded it up and nope it wasnt that either. Then i found a little bit of play in bearing but there was no wirring noise but changed it anyway and it wasnt this. i noticed tyre was rubbing so have managed to put 6mm spacers on but cant be certain for sure it isn't rubbing still. i changed the top mount and it still hasn't gone. im certain its the topmount as ive had all the trim off and tried watching the mount as driving. Or could it be a knackered shock? you can hear the noise all the time on small sharp bumps in the road, if i was travelling at speed and there was a long wallow bump with a decent amount of compresion on suspension theres no noise at all. its driving me up the wall. anyone else had this or can anyone shed any light or help. cheers andy

i have a late vr6 and im after the centre console frame out of the dash and a cigarette lighter and also round dial heater unit. cheers andy

sorry if i missed seeing these bits in the thread and are sold. have you got the centre console frame from the dash that holds the cd player heater dials ash tray? also need a cigarette lighter from dash and round heater dial unit. cheers andy

was hoping some one could give me some advice on tyres and adapters to use. i have a set of bentley wheels. 17 x 7.5J et 61 im not sure on what tyre sizes will be ok to run (17 40 205?) and adaptor sizes so that i dont have to roll arches and avoid major scrubing. cars on coilovers and ill be making the adaptors so they can be what ever size with in reason.

yeah theres four centre caps knocking around my garage they was new from the last lad, may have a few marks on them from being in garage and sticky tape from when they was packaged up. sizes are 17 x 7.5J et32 sorry for late replies ive been on holiday

im sorted for a radiator now, ended up just buying a new one. but thanks for the offer. still after a crack pipe though. doesnt need to be useable just in one piece to take measurements off

i think ill just skip the engine removal and go straight to a full rebuild

cheers for tips, whats the reason for people doing the mocal oil cooler mod? any idea on price of thermo sensors?

it seems a little steep 100, it may well be a geniune item? But for an extra 25quid or so I can get a new aftermarket one which will have a guarrentie with it.

no need for fan im afraid just the rad, as a sleeve for the top elbow is spinning thats all