chuck

next time the revs stick high, flip the bonnet and check to see if the throttle has returned to idle - if it hasn't its your throttle cable, if it has, I'd guess that theres maybe some problem with your ISV. Its apparently (learned this in another thread here) controlled by a temp sensor on the side of the engine. Might have a problem with that. I'm sure someone else here could explain that one better. Just a thought.

Shocks are Boge Turbo Gas. (BTW, a wee bit bouncy on very uneven roads, but generally I'm quite happy with this setup as its nice and smooth on most roads) Yea, I'm thinking of getting lowering top mounts. These are 10-15mm I believe. But I think the offset between front and back is more than that, so I'm thinking of making a half inch thick steel ring to put above the rear springs, just so's I can see a bit of air between the rear whells and wheel arch. I prefer a rear up front down stance to the rear down front up stance it is now. Looks like I've a boot full of bricks!!!

Hello all. I'm convinced somethings not right with my suspension. just fitted eibach 25-30mm springs. but the back looks really low. The top of the wheel is nearly level with the bottom of the wheel arch!! Looks much more than 30mm - and looks a bit wierd with the front sitting higher. Does anybody have a dimension of what the centre wheel to wheel arch distance is supposed to be for a standard car?? Its a '90 16V with standard wheels. Would there be any other reason for the rears to sit low - I replaced each of the top dished mounts too - and all the other bits looked OK.

A few knuckles later and its all done. Top mounts (rears!!) and front shocks later and I'm pretty happy. Anyway. one niggle. The front looks way too high now. The rears came down nicely, but the front sits up a bit. Thinking of getting a set of lowering caps which should bring it down just the right amount. 8) Any pros/cons I should know about before I buy them? For info I have Boge gas shocks, Eibach springs and roll bars, and powerflex bumpstops at front.

Gotta agree with barrie, Just fitted the rears this week - fronts really need a ramp, and I ain't got one. Made a massive difference to tha back around corners. But that was in the dry. Today is really wet, and the rear tends to be a bit (understatement) lively! But only when pushed though. Its a bit wierd, you can feel the front flexing while the rear refuses. Fit a matching pair, much safer, and less stress placed on the all wrong parts of the car.

Don't have money for new shocks. Eibach are meant to be designed for std shocks, so hopefully won't be the worst lowering springs to put on them. ARB should help too. Anyway, I now have car on stands and am trying to remove rear struts. The tops are easy, but I am having trouble wth the lower bolt. There's a clip inside, but this looks to just hold nut in position for turning bolt. I can turn bolt, but requires a long spanner and a jack!!!! Is it reverse thread by any chance? Is there anything else I should know about this bolt before i try again??

Bump. About to jack it up now. need to know how to get at the rear strut top (the trim with speaker on it doesn't want to come off!!) Also how to notice a knackered shocker. Do the new Powerflex bump stops need cut?? Thanks in anticipation

Thanks Kev, BTW its a 1.8 16V, and I couldn't find the red connector you spoke of, but I just disconnected the ISV plug and worked form there. It now idles nicely at just under 1000rpm. It used to be at 800 and a wee bit lumpy. Now its fine and it is a whole load easier to drive around town too :) . And its been OK starting recently too since i cleaned the ISV. (also since cleaning - its stopped buzzing and now hums :) ) Good advice - thanks

Hello all, I'm putting eibach springs and roll bars in next week. Just thought I'd pick the brains of those that have done it before. Basically I have lowering springs, new bump stops all round, and roll bars. I intend to keep OE shocks, but am unsure of what condition they are in. Several questions springto mind right now. 1/ how do i tell if the shock is knackered? 2/ what tools do I need to change springs - I made a crude drop nose spanner and no 7(??) allen key for the front strut tops of the scirocco. 3/ How do you get at the rear strut tops - does the parcel shelf bit need to come off - if so, how do you remove the forwardmost bolt???? 4/ how do the front strut tops be removed? I heard somewhere that they're a git to do. 5/ Do I need to cut the bump stops on account of me lowering the car? They're powerflex bump stops. Any other points to bear in mind would be appreciated. I should be able to nip down to GSF if i need new shocks or top mounts. (are the GSF shocks gas filled??) Thanks

No, side mouldings are still there - thought about leaving them off after painting, but its my only car, and may be prone to a few careless parkers. They're not too obvious - probably as its a dark colour. Thats another thing I like about these cars - you always get a wave or flash of the lights from another one on the road....

Andy, Cheers, for info (see also thread in gallery), its operated both by keyfob, and button in boot - but I'm still looking at TVR wing mirror buttons too. Funny how things work out - only did it cuz some £$&*)(^%$£ pulled both handles off in a milti-storey - and I didn't fancy putting handles back on once I saw how easily they came off. :shock: I'll try to get together some info on whats needed and how to do it (well how I did it!) for anyone thats interested.

Thanks for comments. Yea, I had those wheels on my scirocco scala - except with centre caps! Seats were done at same place as respray - cost £280 and that included fixing both drivers side bolsters (is 'bolsters' right? the sticky out bits that rub and wear), and one of the passengers. Just enough leather to give that nice smell - especially on a lovely day like today :) . (might get the head rests done in leather soon too) Well done Andi - you remembered. Its all connected to a receiver unit in the boot. A two button keyfob on my keyring. One button does drivers door, and the other does the passengers. If that fails, or I leave the keys in the car( :x ), there's a couple of buttons under parcel shelf in the boot. Only problem was adjusting the door catches so that the door wasn't too tight when shut, cuz then the pressure on the latch was too great for the solenoid to operate. And if thats not enough, I'm trying to get a response from TVR, who use the same wingmirror with a button on the underside for the same purpose. :D

Well, At last I now have photoshop and a couple of pics to start with. Car is a freshly resprayed 1990 1.8 16V pretty much standard at the moment except for shaved door handles, which I will explain in detail if anybody wants. The interior was in a bit rough, but I died the carpets a dark colour, and got the seats done in half leather (only fronts for now) and it really sorted that out, not to mention broke the expanse of grey thats standard. I bought it really only as a interim car, while I sold my pug and bought a mint G60. But some git trashed the doors, and I had to fix that, so I continued and fixed the rest of it - and I've really enjoyed it so far. Funny how things turn out... Anyway, wheels are crap to say the least - dunno where they came from, but I have a set of BBS standard G60 wheels on the way. I also have Eibach springs, Eibach anti-roll bars, and clear side repeaters to go on soon - hopefully over easter. So here's a few pics at a kinda inbetween stage. Well, here goes - hope this works.

Right, Have now got Photoshop, so have resized all my pics. Heres the shaved doors. Note I kept the side strips, as this is my everyday car and I do have to use carparks every now and then. Nothing would look worse that a totally shaved smooooth door, with a ding! Hope this works... Oh, and no comments on the wheels please - I KNOW, and I'm working on it!

Mmm. Thought I had this fixed. Wouldn't idle this morning. And I was giving someone a lift into work - very embarrassing when you really need a third foot to keep on the accelerator when braking etc.. But in usual style - its working OK now!!! So, to try and understand whats going wrong, I'll ask the question - 'what does the ISV do'? When its idling and you disconnect it, the car stalls - exactly what it was doing this morning. I'll try cleaning it with petrol soon, but I'd still like to know what I'm doing it for. And if its a valve, why does it have a buzzing motor attached (i take it it is supposed to buzz??!) Hopefully it'll work OK tomorrow morning.... Thanks

I had a flux capacitor in my silver scirocco :lol: Bitch of a thing to find a lightening bolt every morning, and I'd be late for work. But then when it worked I could just travel back in time and not be late...... My mates used to call me McFly when I drove that car :(

Gonna relife this one. I just got my Eibach antiroll bars through the post today - last ones in the country apparently!!! Anyway, It says Golf MK2 on them. I also had a look under the C today and couldn't see a rear anti roll bar! Front one looks easy though. Looking at the rear one supplied I can work out how the two arms attach, but there's nothing for the middle bit to go onto. There is also supplied two very large jubilee clip type things that presumably go on around the axle. But they're round, and the axle is oval. And in the brief look that I got, it looks like the fwd end of the left arm will foul on the fwd end of the exhaust box. Have I got the right ones, and if so, how do you fit the rear ones???

Yea, I think the system is similar to that on the Scirocco. I have that haynes manual. Where is the Bi-pressure pump located on the Corrado?? There is no life in anything. I checked the wires going intl the door pumps and there s nothing. If the pipes were not connected surely the bi pressure pump would whirr for a while. This is a wee bit annoying now.

Just thought I'd say it again. Got my C back today after respray. :D :D :D New wheel arches (old ones rusty) Shaved doors (door handles removed and doors completely smooth) All other rusty/dented spots fixed. Front seats fixed and re-trimmed in half leather. It wasn't a bare metal respray, but everything was off the car. When I saw it the other week it was a rolling chassis with engine and back seats and dash. Now I've got it back - 5 weeks - but worth it. Parents picking up their car (awful nice of them to lend me mums for 5 weeks), and they're bringing up digital camera too, so I'll take a few photos and post them here. Only a couplecuz I need to change the wheels too - you'll see what I mean! Anyway - got my car back - did I mention that??

G60, Bought the car with a bit of rust round wheel arches. Got it quite cheap - cut a long story short - I wasn't intending on keeping it - soon to get a G60 - but it cost a fortune to fix after some git broke into it - so I kept it and got the arches sorted. The body shop told me they were rusting cuz someone rolled them - badly. looks like the paint cracked and let water and grit do its ugly job. Also they then acted as a dirt trap!! I suppose I should have said "get them rolled properly, and gummy up the new 'V' it formes with the outer skin to avoid build up of muck". But I'll tell you this - I ain't doing it again!

Hi, I just got my corrado back from paintshop - full respray. COOL job!! Front seats re done (and fixed) in half leather too. Am I pleased or what. It was 5 long weeks, but it was worth the wait. Anyway to the problem. Everything is back together again, but the central locking doesn't work!! Nothing, not a squeek. I know the doors were off the car, and they cut the wires going to the central locking device in each door (presumably instead of pulling through the door - if it fits). I have checked wiring in each door and its all alright. I, ve checked fuse 21, its OK - interior lights work too - so its not a fuse. But I could understand it if only the doors didn't work, but nothing does - boot or fuel filler cover. It has a standard scorpion VAG alarm, which beeps OK for arm and disarm. I even reset it - disconnected it and reconnected it - it went wewewew and I turned it off. It all works OK. I can't work it out - Hopefully someone out there has an idea of what it is, cuz I'm stumped!! (yea - i know my signature is now wrong)

Chris, In all fairness there was a lot of work to be done. Its not bare metal, but is a complete stripdown. I went to see it last week, and it was only a rolling chassis, with dash and back seats. Add to that new wheel arches (don't roll wheel arches - they will rust!) , and shaved doors. Took the door handles off and smoothed the holes. Cool remote entry thing now. Also every other panel had some sort of dent to be fixed, not to mention several concealed rust holes. Saw it today, its mostly back together and it looks very fine!! 8) 8) So there has been a lot of work done to it - I'm just anxious to have it back.

Don't know about where, but from present experience, take the time quote to do it, and double it. I was told 3 weeks. This is now end of week 5 and its still not finished. Should be tuesday next week :mad:

Can't seem to get much more than 300 miles. Mostly city driving though. And I believe the early ones had a smaller tank??? Don't know about them all, but mine definately has no warning light.

Kevin, Love to help mate, but I haven't seen my car in nearly a month!! :cry: Still in bits in body shop. But what I'm hoping to do when I get it back is first of all, bleed the clutch. If that doesn't work, replace the master or slave cylinder. Hopefully that'll work. The engine mounts didn't seem to fix the problem.