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I have a similar clank when hitting a speed bump or a big pothole. I think I've found what it is, though i have no idea how to fix it. Just replaced wishbones and roll bars (for a whole oyter reason), so know what everything looks like underside. Where the roll bar bends aroung its attachment point on the wishbone, it fouls with the wishbone. So every time I hit a bump and it pulls the roll bar away from the wishbone, it clanks as it hits it again. Presumably hitting a speed bump, relieves the foul as the suspension displaces, but clanks again when it returns. Might take a wee nick out of the wishbone sometime, see if that fixes it. But new wishbone, bushes, ball joints, top mounts, shocks, springs, bumpstops, did not get rid of it! Menace2society, you get that sorted? or you still have a clank?

Wohoo, my C handles like a go-kart now!! :D :D :evil: :evil:

It may have been a mild sweat when I bought it, but it looks like a gruelling workout sweat now. only when oil is under pressure though. Have now bought near everything listed above (it all mounts up!!), including the steel head gasket. (10 head bolts are expensive!!!) But on ETKA the VW guy couldn't say for sure what intector bits I was talking about. It shows in this order working out, seal insert for injector insert for injector (another one) round seal injector round seal What is good to replace? working by what is mentioned above its everything except the injector. Just want to check that before I use my plastic friend again! Also, the exhaust studs and bolts. Can these break? I'm only asking, cuz I don't want anything to be missing, and break (like this weekend - sheared a bolt when replacing wishbones - couple days to get another one!). Also any special tools needed? Socket extension, unusual size sockets, tool for removing valves? etc...? Looking forward to another weekend of fun (there ain't a sarcastic emoticon is there?)

All done now, just waiting a couple days for a couple of ring bolts for arb to wishbone. Tip: when doing this, buy two new ring bolt bushes for arb to wishbone. These tend to rot in middle, between the two rubber seats, and can bend or shear when removing bolt. BTW, Thanks barrie for the advice, the bit long screwdriver worked to take the ball joint off (took a fair bit of pounding with a hammer too though!). Sigh, was a nightmare, but now I can relax with a job well done - also cleaning callipers, as I have a couple of days to kill before its back on the road :D . Can't wait to try it with both arb's on :evil:

Ok, got the roll bar in, was a case of moving the supporting jacks as far forward as poss and pulling the rear down. Not a very nice job by the way. Pity about the Wishbone/arb bush bolt. Suppose car is undrivable 'till i get a new one next week. Still can't disconnect the wishbone from the wheel bearing housing tho at the ball joint. Is there a knack to this as I've battered it with a hammer as much as I can! Haynes pass over it very briefly as if its easy! Any ideas appreciated.

AArgh. I am trying to put the font Roll bar on, and its turning into a nightmare! First I shear one of the wishbone to roll bar bolts, and now I can't get the sub frame lowered enough. Pass side is low enouugh to remove old bar, but drivers side won't go down. Thought the steering UV joint might be holding it, so I loosened the UV bolt at the rack. But it won't disconnect! Anythng else holding it back. Also tried changing wishbones, but couldn't get the ball joint released from wheel bearing housing, even though I totally removed the bolt. Any ideas greatly appreciated, as car is now very immobile!

Thanks Kev, Pretty sure its the head gasket. Looking up its oily right up to the join below the exhaust manifold, then above that its dry. Though I think the cam oil seal has gone too- timing belt side of engine is oily too. Not leaking too much though, haven't had to top it up since November! Didn't know about the MK3 gasket. Mines a 1.8, that definately OK? I'm planning at some stage to put a 2.0 block in. Will that work with that too? Why did VW use neoprene gaskets if the steels last forever?? Sorry if this sounds dense, but are 'lifters' the tappets? How do you grind the valves? Someone on here suggested skimming to increase the low down of a valver. Def. a bad idea then?? Sorry for all the questions, but i've never done this before, but I can use a spanner, and with Haynes and this forum, I feel confident..... :?

Well, its not really a rebuild. Head gasket has sprung a leak, leaving tiny offreings on the drive every morning. Had a look, its well oily around back left corner. Anyway, I might aswell replace anything thats easy while I go to the effort of removing the head. So far: Head gasket Rocker cover gasket and cam shaft oil seals cam drive chain, inlet, exhaust manifold and exhaust gaskets valve stem oil seals. Also considering skimming the head, and reseating the valves. (wots involved here - only heard about this lot) tappets Any parts around the injectors that are worth doing? Does anyone know af anything else thats worth doing, or can anyone tell me that anything above is just plain silly. Its not blowing smoke, just leaking oil. Thanks

Mine used to do that too, exactly the temps you quote. Only problem I found was that the engine could start to 'pink' when it got very hot. Though I am using 95 RON petrol being the cheapskate I am (Can't get optimax here and 97 RON is so expensive - and car runs fine until it gets to 105 deg+). So I put a low temp thermoswitch in. Doesn't go above 95 now. OK the thermostat and fan work a bit harder, but no problems so far.

Well, thanks for piccy Jim. That persuaded me to buy. Along with a set of Toyo rubber. And to my surprise, performancealloys.com is based 30 mins up the road from me! so I pick em up on friday! At last, a set of decent wheels!!

Looks very tidy. Quite a cool shot of the wheel too 8) Whats the spec though?

Sad news J (I'll call you 'J' cuz its easier than your sig!!) I have 'temporary' measure golf GTI wheels on and it goes OK. (though 14" only fits the 16V - the G60 needs 15" to clear the bigger brakes) As for window, either get insurance in on it (£50 quid for the whole deal and doesn't affect NCB either - but usually only if fully comp - check your policy), or pay for it. Though don't get ripped off by the big companies. Autoglass quote me £250 for the glass (2day delivery) and £350 for fitting!!! VW do the original glass for £95 plus VAT. But if you look around the smaller windscreen companies you should get it down as low as £75 plus VAT. (I did and it was delivered within 3 hours). Then take the door card off yourself (very easy) and take to a bodyshop who'll fit it quite cheaply (mine got autoglass in to glue it!!!) Should get it all done for around £100. Good luck. I'm thinking of instaling a swinging swordblade under the car, thats set off by proximity and cuts the gits feet off!!!

In the past few weeks I've gone full circle (geddit??) on the issue of wheels to replace my 14" (!!) ones. I had originally thought of 16" replacements. THen to 15" original G60 BBS ones. I had even agreed a price with a guy in England. Looks like this deal has fallen through, and these BBS wheels are like hens teeth, so its back to 16". And now a couple of treads are getting a bit(!) low, so I need to do something. I've found a set on internet for very good price. £299 inc VAT and Postage. 16x7J and 4x100 and ET42. Do I definately need 5mm spacers? Can I use standard wheel nuts with that or do I need to buy longer ones? Anything to be careful about with 'cheap' alloys? Its from performance alloys.com. who I think are a reputable dealer. Thanks

OK, several people have expressed an interest in how I did this so here's a brief (!?) description. A few points to consider though before starting:- 1/ It's a 1 way body modification. Once done it will be VERY expensive to return to standard. 2/ If in an accident, no-one can open the door (though realistically door will probably be jammed, and glass broken anyway), plus if, like me you drive with the doors locked anyway... 3/ Local laws, vehicle test requirements. (UK - MOT will pass this as long as you can open the door without the key fob - might be a good idea to have an external button though - TVR style) 4/ Audi door handles are probably a cheaper and more user friendly modification. What you need:- Switching receiver unit with matched key fob Solenoid kit Wire Crimps If you have an alarm that has a few extra functions, you could connect solenoids to that, e.g. most Clifford alarms. Any 10 Amp switching receiver unit will work. I bought two single switching units, one for each door, from Maplins. They are mainly used for remote garage door operation and cost £30 each. They have several switching options, I chose a 1 second operation i.e. press key fob button, and the unit passes current for 1 second - usually enough to grab door. These come with instructions. Two key fobs (extra one just in case!) to match the receiver units costing £10 each. Then there are the 10 amp solenoids, which are a standard trunk solenoid that you can buy at most motor stores, check the VW magazines. These are roughly £40 each. These come with mounting plates, 1 button to put anywhere in the car, some wire and instructions. Loads of 10 amp wire and crimp connections to make new earthing points. Price:- So for the equipment you'd be talking £200+. As far as bodywork goes, its up to your local body shop really. I got mine fully resprayed but imagine I would have been charged in the region of 300-500 quid. Installation:- Hardest bit about installing was finding a place for the solenoid. The doors are quite tight inside. But the best place was bottom rear of door (easy maintenance access through the removable plastic cover too) , with the cable running up to the latch lever where I drilled a small hole for the loop attachment. Only niggle is that it restricts the last inch of the window slide so it doesn't open 100% fully. With this too, the moving part of the solenoid hangs off the latch lever, which only has a weak spring. The problem here is that if you were to lock it, and the latch lever were to gradually fall under the weight of the solenoid, the door can't be unlocked! So I connected a length of elastic between the cable and the door skin to take the weight of the solenoid. Crude but effective. I put the button behind the parcel shelf trim on either side. As for wiring, I kind of just joined the two wiring diagrams (from the receiver units and the solenoids) getting rid of any earth return lines by drilling and earthing (as close as possible to solenoids and receivers). I didn't bother with any 'if the alarms on the solenoids won't activate' complexity. If the alarms on, the doors are locked, and so even if solenoid operates, the doors won't open anyway. I connected the system directly to the battery. You could do the boot too, but I left it as, if the battery dies you'd be left trying to break into your own car! A bit of advice, install the system before doing the bodywork. It's easier to do using the hole left by the door handle. Problems (niggles really):- 1/ Can be a bit annoying sometimes to open the doors, as they don't 'pop' open. You have to grab the edge and pull, and if you're slow it can catch on the half-open-half-closed latch. You really need both hands too, one to press the key fob button, and one to grab the door. But maybe a Ferrari type recess behind the door flange... 2/ One morning mine froze and wouldn't open. I later greased the solenoids to stop a build-up of condensation and it hasn't been a problem since. Worth consideration if you live in a colder climate. 3/ I have been told that Corrado door seals are prone to sticking in hot weather, but this hasn't happened yet. 4/ Door catches will need adjustment. If the door closes too tight, this places a lot of pressure on the latch mechanism, and the solenoid won't be able to open it. (also affected by the supporting elastic, which works against the solenoid). In my opinion this is a good mod as the Corrado door handles are weak, and any thief will know how to get around them. So if you have the time (there really is a lot of adjusting to get it right) and the money (I used budget receiver units - but you could buy more expensive ones), I can highly recommend it. (Mmmm... just previewed that, think I should have bought webspace for this one!!!)

Quote "Ferrari had a cunning idea. They fitted an inverted aerofoil underneath their cars" Ya can't see that though.......... :lol:

Hey tinsman. Check out the thread in ICE 'n' SECURE, titled 'shaved door handles... for security'. I did it. But why one side only???? Any body shop will do it, but thats only the body work. you need then the solenoid, button and/or receiver unit and transmitter (I highly recommend both). If you feel confident its an easy thing to rig. I've had mine on since december now without hiccup. :D

Where do you get this tint spray, and did you spray the red ones too, and how long does it last? Maybe stupid question but does the indicator still be yellow OK?

Is it actually blowing warm air even when set to cold? If not, it might just be that the C (in my experience anyway) doesn't have the best ventilation of any car I've driven. Though I've yet to be too hot in it - but i always keep the fan set on 1. I'd say theres definately a problem if the heater is set to cald, and its not blowing in cold outside air.

I'm really just guessing here, but if yours is a 94 model (sig?) it'll have the dial controls. These can corrode and stick. Maybe, maybe it could be that the heater control has broken, and the heater is set to hot? Just a thought? No, its not normal btw, though they can take some time to cool when you turn it from hot to cold.

Looks like a very BIG replacement. VERY Passat Just think of seeing the first one in your rear view "Is that the new corrado, no I think its a Passat". If you read it too - "...more of a grand tourer than a sports coupe...", and "... space for four to sit in comfort..." :lol: Also consider this, its a different concept to the original Corrado. If it wears the original name, what will that do for the resale value of ours???? Not for me I'm afraid.

Neat looking mota mate. very clean. Has it been resprayed, cuz i didn't know VW did an exciting colour like that in the early ninetys? 8) 8) Rear lights - you mean the greyed idea? I'd like to know how you did it. My rocco was the same, but alas the C has very orange rear indicators!

Hey mike, wots the craic? I've spent so much on mine recently, that I've looked into modding the engine too. Looking through this section i think the first one I'll do is to marry a 2.0l block to my 1.8 head. Apparently the 1.8 head has bigger valves, as well as a wilder inlet cam. That should give it a bit more low end which is personally where I feel the 1.8 is lacking. The twin exhaust cam idea is £75 plus VAT from stealth (from another thread) if you send them an exhaust cam to modify. As kev here has said, that could produce about 165bhp, with a bit more low end than the 1.8, which should be a very drivable car!! :) THese two seem to produce the most bang for least bucks, as most other changes seem to be very expensive for litte change. There's another one that was on somewhere if you buy that head - skimming the head. Haven't priced this yet, but it could be expensive, and I can't remember the gains, except that the guy who did it seemed very enthusiastic. Personally I wouldn't bother with the polishing and porting on the 16V head. The 16V head is (again from what I've read) very good in this respect anyway. Cheers P.S. got your parts back from Gary yet?

Rears now changed back to standard springs. And the problem is clear. The Eibach rear springs are duff. Just the rears, the fronts still look OK. THe ride height with std springs is now exactly 345mm, a full 60mm more than the eibach 30mm ones!!!!! (well at least it now looks like it ought to) Given that the std rear springs have 13 years use and a towbar over them, I would accept 30mm reduction in size (std rears new 378mm). I'm very angry that Eibach sold me a set of potentially very dangerous springs :x, and I'm convinced they were slowly collapsing too. Hell i could push them much easier than the standard ones. Makes me wonder about the quality of the front ones now. Should have gone for H&R. I'll definately be having a lot to say to Eibach tomorrow.

Just had another look at my pics. It didn't sit that low on its originl springs. Might put old springs back on tonight as it is pretty much undriveable at the moment. (and I'm bored :) )

Yea real wierd. Though if you check out the pics in the gallery section, the back of mine always sat a bit low. I put this down to the car having a towbar which can stress those springs. (even Scirocco was arse down when I bought it - 40mm lowering springs actually raised the back....) Just off the phone to Eibach. They tell me that as standard the C ('90 16V at least)should sit (measured from center wheel to wheel arch): 374mm front 378mm rear With eibach springs it should read: 346mm front 345mm rear. (all +/- 5mm) I couldn't believe it when I measured mine 346mm front 285mm rear!!!! (wots yours banana man!!!) You can understand my concern. He's checking with the German engineers tomorrow. Don't know what'll come of it though. :?: I have to say I don't recommend a 90odd mm drop on standard shocks :mad: To be honest 2CC - I would expect your measurements to be OK considering that they are probably original springs etc... I even got a printout from VW of the rear shock arrangement - and I definately put all those bits in. Took a wheel off at GSF and checked the shock against a brand new Boge gas shock for the C (same as golf 2 and 3 GTI apparently) and it is also correct. Anything else I'm missing? On standard C can you all see the bottom of the spring though the wheel arch gap?