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Yea, I really don't think its the roll bars (tho they do touch a bit). the viper dropshox on my rocco make the very same noise. Nothings loose and everythings (yes everything) is new up front. It sounds terrible but theres no clunk thru the steering wheel. If you ever do find out what it is, please get back to me.

As I remember, turn the top towards you advances it. At idle you'll notice the revs increase slightly then settle again as you advance it. (revs will descrease when retarding it) BTW, I've set mine at 5deg advanced for super plus (no optimax over here :( ). Basically advance until it pinks, then retard it till it just stops. will involve lots of driving to get it right.

Is there any chance they could have given me the wrong ones. They're definately the same as the golf mk2 ones?? - cuz thats what the box said. When jacked up the ends rub on the CV boots too. So I was never very happy with the fit. When fitted to wisbone as per VW (1 washer) and weight on the wheels, they hit hard just where the arb first leaves the wishbone. Then on the second corner, the paint on both the arb and wishone has rubbed off. The extra washers at the wishbone solved the 1st problem, but not the second. The brake covers seem solid, I just painted them too. I also think its pretty central - sound is from both sides anyway. Can the struts be fitted wrong, cuz it all happened after that? (wot stops the disc ontop of the top-mount from hitting the body work when the wheel disappears down a hole?)

Hi all. I have an extremely annoying noise coming from the front suspension when I go over rough roads. Sounds like a clash, like an iron bar hitting a tin can full of nuts and bolts. Quite loud, but can't hear it with the windows up. I've already replaced struts and springs and top mounts, wishbones and balljoints and bushes in the last 6 months. The only thing i can see thats obviously wrong is the Eibach anti roll bar rubs on the wishbone! THis can only be seen with weight on the wheels, as jacked up it all separates. I have spaced the wishbone to roll bar connector up with a few extra washers. I have also (very lightly!!) rubbed a bit away from the wishbone. This all helps, but I am very reluctant to rub (grind :twisted: ) any more off the wishbones. I had a few mechanics look at it, and they all said the same. (funny thing tho, I think it clanked after i replaced the struts and springs (eibach again), and before i put the new arb's in!) So what I'm asking is, has anyone with eibach arb's experienced anything like this before???? If not, any ideas??

The 2.0 uses a combination of digifant and K-jet injection systems. The 1.8 is purely K-Jet, same as the golf. I suspect the reason the C 1.8 loses a wee bit of power over the golf is that in an effort to create more torque for the C (heavier car) they stuck a 42mm inlet on as opposed to the golf 50mm inlet. Sure the 1.8 can come in "poverty" spec, but you can't break a windy up/down window :lol: . Besides, thats all the early ones don't have as far as I know, Mine has sunroof too. ABS was an option for all 1.8 16v. (think the 2.0 16v has extras such as variable intermittent windscreen wipers etc...) Depends what you want. Mines a 1.8, and its quick (well I think so - I haven't driven a VR6 or G60), but only when wound up. Town driving can be a bit tiresome tho. The 2.0 is probably a lot more drivable around town. There's another thread on this somewhere too.

I haven't driven a 2.0 16v, but have heard that the 1.8 can beat the 2.0 to 60... just. Reason being, the 1.8 is wilder at high revs, tho the 2.0 has more torque. Off the lights the 2.0 will have it, but hit 4000 revs in second and the 1.8 will take it. Thats just my take on it. Both have exactly the same horsepower (bigger bore 2.0 has a restrictive cat), but the 2.0 has more torque tho is heavier. The 1.8 is lighter but really bursts to life at high revs. I would be interested to hear if anyone has pitched the two together on a track....

A bit off topic but... Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the lights socket for a tow bar. Some idiot managed to pull the connector off my trailer, so now all I have is a bare 8 or so core wire and a plug. :shock: :?: Any help appreciated

yea, don't get me wrong, the problems section on here is invaluable. But several times I've convinced myself that my car has a problem that I had only read about half an hour ago... :shock: :lol: (wots that squeak/knock/click - wasn't there last time i drove it???) How many conversations have I interrupted while driving with "shhh.......... I thought I heard something"?? Usually turns out to be a noise on the radio. Or the worst thing a mate can do at the traffic lights is that nevous leg jiggle thing, or tapping a foot to the music..... :shock: :shock: :shock: "Oh sh!t somethings come loose!!!"

For info (cuz its yet another thing I've replaced recently) Hall sender is £80 odd plus VAT from VW (and is a bollacks to fit apparently - you need to separate a few clips/seals and renew them -of course VW don't know which ones!!). Complete new Bosch dizzy from Euro car parts is £75 ish on an exchange basis. Simple "plug and play" as they say.

I've a couple of ideas. 112 oil temp is by no means hot for a 16v. Basically if water temps stay between 85 and 110, and oil between 100 and 120 you're running fine). But your problem could be either electrical or fuel related. Mine developed an electrical problem recently, but only when hot. The starter would not operate once the temp reached a certain level. I fixed it by taking all the wires off the starter and alternator, cleaning and abrading connections, and reattaching with plenty of copper grease. The fact that your MFA resets at indicates that the power is somehow disconnecting. Could be related. If I were you I'd have a go at removing all main connections and cleaning the them. I know that there's an earth connection by the battery to the car body and connects also on the gearbox at the starter, and probably a good idea is the live connection to the coil. Anyone think of any other good connections to re-do. Other idea is the fuel pump. There's 2, a main one under the car, and an aux one in the fuel tank. Its common for the fuel tank one to pack in. If it does, there will be a loud whine (almost grinding) from the main pump (as it straines to take the load). Will result in either the engine becoming very jumpy, or cutting out. Mine only did this in traffic, and it turned out to be the aux pump. Easy replacement. Hope this helps some, because I know all too well how frustrating it is to be going home in rush hour traffic and being pretty sure there will be some problem on the way (whats the way home with least traffic so's my engine doesn't get too hot?? :lol: )....

I can lock all doors by pressing the mechanical drivers button from inside, but not the passengers. Conversly, if I activate the central locking by the electrical dash button (an extra I fitted connected straight to the 3 pin connector from a door handle), I can't unlock it from inside by pulling the mechanical door buttons. Probably a security feature of the alarm - once it activates the c/locking, it won't let you pull the button to open the door, eg. through smahing a window. All a bit confusing really.........

30mm springs (Eibach or H&R) are a cost effective way (£100-£150) of improving the stance (and handling), while not being so extreme as to require uprated shocks (some may disagree tho...). Won't cause any arch fouling either.

I've heard that MK3 are a straight fit, Mk 4 require special hoses (ends are different). not 100% sure about this tho... (just so's you don't go out and buy a set of Mk4 and risk a lot of hassle fiting them)

Its still all an option, but i really feel a bit stupid right now. See, i changed the dizzy this evening (for a whole other reason - broken hall connector, leaking oil too), and had to retime it all. I managed to set it so that it pinked really badly, but noticed there was no ugly exhaust noise. So I brought it back a bit, and sure enough there was that ugly noise. bang in the middle of that with a wee tweak after some driving, and now it neither pinks nor makes that awful exhaust noise. :D So it wasn't the exhaust after all. but now I've started me thinking 'bout exhausts (mmm... 4-branch...).......... BTW, I think this is what happened - I could be talking cr@p as I'm self teaching myself all this :? If anyone disagrees, please say so.

Mmmm, maybe tinny was the wrong description. Theres deff no rattle. It sounds like crap tho. sounds like a small engined burble, like a blow out only not. funny you should mention the heatshield. ATS tried to take it off when undoing the down pipe bolts for me - long story. But he used a big chisel and an even bigger hammer. Broke the rear bolt and pretty much mangled the rest of it, but couldn't remove it. I managed to clamp it back together again with a broad silencer wrap clamp. pretty sure theres no rattle from it. Also if you hold a cloth over the rear, the engine dosn't struggle, and the slight noise only gets slightly louder. Is the heat shield really needed? Maybe a silly question if its there, but if i have to replace it, hows that done too? Does an aftermarket exhaust need one? What sort of price should I expect for a whole stainless system, including downpipe? Appologies as this is really disjointed, but I'm now running several ideas thru my mind.

Simply that, wots a good aftermarket exhaust system for a 1.8 16v. I'm not looking any huge performance gains, or a huge noise. Just stainless and new. Subtle being key.... Mine has developed an almost tinny noise. don't think its the manifold.

looking at the receipt (very vague) it appears to be 049919501 - switch

leave it as is, most people will pay bucket loads to get it to do that :D :lol: 8)

Dunno about the other engines, but I found by accident (ie I broke it when fixing something else :lol: ). On the 1.8 16v, there are 3 small temp senders around the water housing on the gearbox side of the head (actually screwed into head). They all seem to be the same type of sender, just sending to different places, but the water temp one on mine anyway, was the top front one. Bottom front is the ISV one (the one i broke - so swapped them over at the expense of the water temp gauge.) They cost £15 from VW. Description, small black, 1 connector. Hope this helps.

this is perhaps the most posted about problem. It would seem that the best way to go about it is to get a passat rear door handle. This doesn't have a lock, so be sure the central locking works well! Mmm, do you have passats in states? If not, I'm sure you could ask someone here to post a pair across. :) Anyway, check posts in this section, theres loads of info on this one....

looks like an easy job, but be prepared for a lot of cursing over 2 bolts at the gearbox side. You'll have to remove the small silver cover on the gearbox to expose them. You'll also need a thin extension with a wobbly end, as you can easily (I know cuz i did) :x cross thread them. BTW I got a gasket for I think 6 quid from GSF. And its no longer leaking.

interesting you should ask that mike. NO. AND I've noticed that the fuel economy at the moment is horribly high. :x (edit - that should be "horribly low" - or whatever means its using too much fuel!) How do you adjust it then?

I can vouch for the improvement (albeit small) for the 1.8 16Vers with a performance air filter. The car has a wee bit more punch under 4000rpm, and as jim says is noticeably more free revving. Didn't notice an increase in fuel consumption either. In fact the same mod in my rocco 1.8i reduced fuel consumption a bit. So, probably a must do mod, especially as they aren't dear, and as filters are a replaceable item anyway....

I have Eibach springs, and don't experience huge tramilining (205 tyres). Though imho, no-one is fully qualified to properly sort the camber. Anyone can do tracking, but ask a guy that only fits tyres for a living to think in the third dimension (for camber) and he falls apart. (Sorry if that offends anyone - my experience thats all - three times to get it right at a well known tyre fitters, and I had to supervise him the last time, and I've never used the digital machine before!!!!!). The first time he left me with a self steering car around the corners (especially in reverse), the second time with max camber on one side and min on the other, claiming that he couldn't adjust it any more. Sorted the third time after I looked at it myself. Have heard tho that the best place to get it done properly is at the VW dealers. They even set it up correctly for eibach springs (everywhere else just resets to factory settings). Note, if wearing on both inside and outside, this indicates low tyre pressure.

Jim, I bet that feels better to get that off your chest. :lol: I can only help with a couple of your probs. 1/ Door handle - common problem, new they cost £80 from VW down to about £30 from places like GPC. But the best route is to use passat rear door handles. There's loads of posts on here, so I won't go on. 2/ again plenty of posts here on that one 5/ as lanny said, try copper grease ('goldish brake poop' - :lol: ), behind the pads. 7/ check the ISV. always a good idea to soak it in carb cleaner overnight. 8/ I have a similar noise, it appears to be the anti rollbars (eibach) touching the wishbones - check for wear marks there. If not, check the splash guard behind the brakes. (Keep me posted on that one please :) ) 9/ Typical symptoms of a clutch master/slave cylinder fault. try bleeding the system first, if still ot sucessful, then you'll have to replace both cylinders. BTW mine does it a bit, but only if the pedal is depressed for a long while - simple solution is to always knock it into neutral at traffic lights. Good luck