chuck

chances are with a 1.8 16v that during service, if the owner has been using 95 RON, that the mechanic will have retarded the timing to suit. So it will run Ok with 95 ron (albeit outside of factory settings). So changing to super plus (98 ron) and advancing the timing as far as it will go (further advanced that factory even), will see a noticeable performance increase.

V clean car mate. Looks to be exactly same spec as mine - right down to the colour - whatever it is.

is your fuel pump noisy. common fault is the small pump in that tank dies, and the main one can't cope. When it struggles it usually buzzes, and doesn't deliver enough fuel, giving what you are describing. If it ticks over fine, all 4 cylinders are firing OK. Fuel pump is £20 from VW, but be sure to give them the chassis number as they modded the strainer at some point.

Is it not easier to adjust camber using the 2 strut to wheel-bearing-housing bolts, as the housing has a slotted hole and loads of play. Thats the way I did it anyway. Can't see the BJ bolts making big differences in the camber. I believe there's a difference in the front suspension between the 16v/G60 and the VR6 setup? You don't want 0 deg camber. Factory says about -0.5 deg, but most people here run closer to -1 deg, drastically improves cornering.

Sounds like a cold start valve problem. If the sensor is broken, it could be stuck on (ON is on for up to something like 8 seconds after starting). Disconnect the blue connector on the front right of the inlet (when looking at it from front of car). Try starting it then. If it fires its the sensor thats at fault. If it is overfueling, then 2 hours should be plenty to allow the engine to cool enough to require the extra fuel for starting. If that don't work, it could also be the ISV. Is it buzzing with the ignition on. If not, give it a whack with a hammer. It should buzz - quite coarsly too. If thats not working, it would allow the engine to start, but not to idle, it'll just die sraight after it catches.

To be honest you could put a good quality thin oil in, but avoid the likes of Magnatec for performance cars - its really thin. I replaced all the gaskets and used this stuff, and it still leaked from here and there. Now I use good old Castrol GTX and engine is dry as a bone. Mines the same engine with the same miles.

three possible problems i could be. lack of spark lack of fuel too much fuel. You can check the first two OK, but if its the last you can either wait a while, or if you urgently need to get away you could remove an injector and start it (alot quicker and easier than removing a plug) - this will draw in clean air and reduce the fuel vapour mix - you'll have to put injector back in quickly tho as it will die otherwise. If you do this, don't be alarmed, the loud squeeling is only the air being sucked in thru the injector hole. BTW, I had to do this for a while when my cold start valve was stuck on - wouldn't start when warm as it was flooding itself.

I thought the gearboxes were all the same across the range. The reason the 16V does 60 in second (BTW only if you redline it!) is it redlines at 7000 rpm and not 6000rpm for the G60 and VR6. (sorry, not accurate, but I think its close). Kev, I'd love to believe that attachment. It really does put a standard 1.8 16v quicker than all the others (across the whole range!) apart from the VR6.

yea, once you adjust the camber, the tracking will also be out. Might as well bite the bullet and get it sorted properly. You could try it all yourself, but it will be a huge hassle, and you'll never get it perfect. BTW, if its riding higher at the front than the rear, its posible the rears might have sagged over time too - might be worth changing them too...

I like a story with a happy ending...

Right behind you on this one jim. Imagine the scenario. Someone rearends you in a traffic jam. All of a sudden you end up in the back of the car in front. Its not your fault (and you really didn't plan it), but you just wrote off the car in front, and hes claiming personal injury, against you. You see where I'm going.... And its really not that unlikely either. I'm curious, hows the law stand on that one. If its insured, but not all mods are claimed, is that illegal, cuz technically it is insured, as only after the crash is it invalidated (pandoras box?)

yea, I did the same, only is was just 1 bolt luckily. So I put it back together with 7 and a bit of that gummy stuff. Doesn't leak at all. Either I'm extremely jammy, or there is a bit of redundancy on those bolts.

H&R are supposed to be smoother than Eibach. Bit more expensive tho. And both drop by around 30mm, which is plenty IMO, as with the 16" wheels it centres the wheel inside the arch with an even wheel arch gap. And a corrado is pretty crashy as standard, compared to more modern cars anyway.

yea, I use them loads for spare parts, and have to say they've always been very helpful. And whats more, bar 1 occasion, all the orders have been right! As for servicing, they told me some time ago they had binned the corrado manuals...... Obviously somebody still knows what they are doing.

Hey paul, I live in N. Ireland too, and have been using super plus. You only need to worry about the fuel type on the 1.8 16V as this is the only C engine that doesn't adjust for the fuel type. THe others will all benefit performance-wise with higher octane, but the 1.8 is the only one that won't run right. It'll pink like mad with 95RON, though you can get it adjusted at a garage to use it. I tried Wynns, but it proved more expensive than just using super plus. BTW I have only found one pump for it around Belfast!! Wot you drive?? Where you at?? Might have seen you about?

I had the same problem, sometimes won't engage, just whirrs. How many times have I pushed it away from the petrol pumps??!! Though I think I've fixed it. Replaced the starter but the problem returened. Then I looked to the battery. The battery in my car was a 350 amp. I replaced it with a more powerful 495 amp one (the shop said the car should have a 570 amp!!!?), and it hasn't faultered since. My theory is that on a cold morning the battery's cold and has been sitting overnight, thus slightly down on power. On a hot day once the engine is off a while and the fan cuts in, there is a drain on the battery. If the batterys not up to it, it won't switch the solenoid. Thats my theory anyway, and it seems to have fixed my problem. :D P.S. I used to use a big long socket extension (2/3 foot) and a hammer to get it to engage... Oh yea, I can't remember but are the threads for the starter motor bolts not on the front engine mount bracket????

Did someone on here do a mod to fit a starter button? It bypasses the faulty ignition switch without having to replace it. BTW, I have a similar problem. Just replaced the starter and the battery (old one was too small). It has helped loads, but still sometimes won't turn. But if you listen real hard you can just hear the stater whining as it does turn, but doesn't engage on the flywheel?? (lights dim, radio goes off - just the engine doesn't turn) Does this sound the same as the problem you guys ae describing??

Hey Mike. Yea C is still going strong. I'm out in Bangor loads at the mo too. Tho I never use the bottom end of the Airport road past your place now - what a mess. :evil: Dunno where you heard about the golf tho?? :? I would never part with my C. :D

I'm surprised (well not really) that the dealers said that. I've constantly annoyed my local dealer with very small orders, some of which have been single item trim screws, usually costing pennys... Perhaps you could go to another dealers?

I have a creaking/groaning noise from one side of my rear axle, especially when someone is sitting on that side in the rear. Its really only noticeable when starting off from standstill. Quite noticeable when putting handbrake on on steep hill. I was wondering if that would be the axle bearing (bush?) on its way out. If so, how big/expensive a job? Anyone any suggestions?? thanks

Did I buy a really crap one then from GSF for £20??? £120 for what I bought really seems excessive. :shock: (1.8 16V BTW)

Mike, Your cars looking fantastic now. 8) Only seen it briefly flashing past thru town since the new suspension. Nice to see pics of it. (surprised I missed the post 'till now :? ) (you always seem to find great backdrops to shoot against too :D )

BTW, the front wishbones with bushes already in them, like the ones from ECP/GSF may cause problems. I've heard the bushes mightn't be up to the high VW standard, but a problem I've experienced is that the are a slightly different shape. Shouldn't be a problem with standard suspension, but I have Eibach anti roll bars, and these actually knock the new wishbones. :shock:

I took callipers off this morning, and the two guide pins in the carriers are loose as hell. (how snug a fit should they be????). So i stuffed each slot with loads of grease and reassembled it all. It certainly helps the problem alot, its now only the very big bumps that induce a clank. Can i just replace the guide pins, or is there a bush in the carriers that comes out too?

What a great suggestion. Just tried that - didn't even have to jack it up. just hit the tyre wall with my hand, and there was a funny crashy rattle. Turns out the calliper moves a bit over the carrier. (turn the wheel and hold the calliper and it doesn't rattle. Probably when I put the harder Eibach springs on it shakes the strut more when hitting a sharp bump. Now question is, what is causing this. Is there a slieve or something on the calliper bolts that can wear?? (haynes for the golf shows a slightly different calliper that the raddo) Cheers