chuck

Depends how bad they are, and how well you want them fixed e.g. I was quote less to have the wheelarches sanded and filled, than for the bad sections cut out and new ones welded in. Obviously cutting out rust is a far better solution to filling it. Done right, its imposible to spot the welded area.

Mine cost £2000. That included rear wheel arches (rust - sections cut out and replaced), several other rust holes (minor) and dents, shaved door handles, and was a complete exterior stripdown but not bare metal. Labour charges were for N. Ireland, but you could expect slightly more labour charge in England.

Cool looking motor, IMO I prefer the look in the first pic, dark (burgandy?) metalic with gun metal effect wheels.... mmmmmmm :) 8) 8)

Did you do the 2.1 conversion? A bit more info.. How much difference over the 1.8, and how much cost etc... Would also like to see photos :wink:

THanks guys, Before i fork out any more money on mine, I'll take it out and clean it and check all the wiring. (hey, now that I have most other things fixed, I don't want to be bored with nothing to do this weekend ) If it still does the same, I might just PM you leew.

Mmm, maybe i was kidding myself then that the good sh!t was making it run better... I'll stick to good old premium then, unless I have money burning a hole in my pocket :wink: (I could still swear its running slightly smoother tho)

My starter motor sometimes won't work. Symptoms Only when hot (sometimes) Will whirr, but not engage (does that mean ignition switch is OK?) Leave it for 10-15 mins and it will engage. I've read that it will do that when overloaded and very hot. Does this mean that its slowly getting weak, and is more affected by the engine heat? Any way to rebuild one, or how much for a new one? not really a problem right now (just annoying, cuz it will sart soon), but just trying to be proactive. thanks

Basically, what is it? Haven't seen it here (N.Ireland). Who sells it? At last fixed the oil leak, rebuilt head and I thought I'd treat it to a tank of proper 98 RON fuel. The only one I found was Esso Super Plus, which was 80.9p per litre!!!!!!!!!! :shock: Does make a difference though, but running costs would be a good bit higher.

the c uses a different gearbox, with longer gears. It increases top speed, but sacrifices the acceleration. Its also heavier. I'd only say its slow in traffic, get it going and its a bit of a stormer :D (really need to rev it tho) still does 0-60 in a shade over 8 s, which isn't slow by any standards :shock: I came into C's from a turbo diesel, and it took a while to adapt to a very different driving style (TD all punch under 3000 rpm - 16V all punch over 4000rpm!!)

is it not 10K boost? might be wrong, or might be a different product. Anyway, think it was 10k boost i used. Really didn't notice much difference, but looking at the intake pipes before and after, it really cleaned the gunk out of them. So must have done some good........... Very expensive too. could try carb cleaner, quarter the cost, and should do the same job.

Check out thread in servicing section - same title. Did some of it recently myself. Any questions you can PM me. Might do timing belt too, when you've gone that far......

Karmann, To make the 16V do 60 in second would require lengthening the gears. I've been told by a tuning company that the gears on the C 16v are longer than the gears on the golf, same engine. that, coupled with a bit extra weight, is why the corrado feels slower. Lengthening the gears will only make the car feel slower again at lower speeds (realistically everyday speeds). Anyway, 60 is only a magic figure used by magazines etc.. IMO if the car feels like it has a bit bore punch low down, thats much better than being able to reach 60 in second, and suffer it feeling more sluggish around town. (I can get just over 55 in second anyway....)

I'll offer some imparial advice, as I have neither. Or maybe I'll not get into the middle... Ah feck it.... :lol: The G60 is much less refined, more of a racy machine. The VR6 is more of a very fast grand tourer, very refined. THe G60 is very tunable, but does need charger serviced regularly (rebuilt every 40-60k). the VR6 may never need touched mechanically, but is very expensive to tune. G60's are older than VR6's, but prices don't vary much, except for the much later VR6 Storms. Though beware very overpriced heavily modded G60's. BTW the 0-60 times in parkers are in innaccruate. Apparently the G60 they used was having gearbox problems. Its 0-60 times are more in the region of low 7's high 6's (correct me if i'm wrong anyone). Depends what you are looking for really. Personally, mine would be a late unfacelifted G60, standard but for chip and pulley and rebuilt charger, standard, cloth interior.... Each to their own I suppose :D .

Humph - I did! :x (had all the rubber seals out at the time tho..)

Ah, Appologies Karmann. I stripped the head this weekend, and noticed a temp sender at top left front corner (looking at front), on the rocker cover. Accidentlly let the terminal contact the engine (earth) and the fan came on. Didn't know about this one. :oops: this might be the one your talking about. If yuor still looking, go to a scrapyard. Should be on any 16V VW engine, and probably the 8V K-Jet ones too.

Mmmm. From what you're all saying it all sounds much too expensive. Was thinking much less. Couldn't really see myself paying £5000 ish for a new engine (albeit kick-ass engine), for a car worth half that if lucky. This is still a useful thread for anyone thinking the same. Still thinking about a mod to it though. Simply a head polish and port, and a re-bore to 2.0l. I'm always of the opinion that if something needs fixed (engine is still leaking a small amount of oil from gearbox side), you might as well go the extra mile. :)

Aha, got it. Looks like the thermotime switch is knackered. Cold start valve comes on every time I try to start it - flooding it (disconnecting the valve wires when hot and it starts easily). Also explains why removing an injector helped it to start. Just remembered trying to take the connector off the switch, I twisted the head without unscrewing it. Mustav broken it. Think I've got one banging round somewhere from my rocco days............ Happy days.

Yup, asked the local VW a simple question like "whats the torque settings for the head bolts on my early 16V" I was told that their records didn't go back that far, and that it might take several hours to find out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Maybe a bit controversial on here, I know many would say why, when the corrado was created as a supercharged car. Well my main reason would be that they're newer. Less miles and thus more likely to be more reliable. But I'm seriously (maybe) thinking about this. i need to consider a few pros and cons though. First how much for a 20vt engine? How much to get installed complete? What does this do to tax/insurance/mot(emissions without CAT))? Will still probably be an everyday car, so will it be reliable? Anyother mods needed - brakes etc... Is this a totally daft idea as its a 12 year old body shell that was until recently suffering from various small patches of rust? Also still need to get the old 16V engine working as this won't happen for maybe several months yet (so any answers to my other thread in the problems section are greatly appreciated :D ) Maybe I'm just churning a few ideas over in my head as I'm pissed off that mine don't go right now, or maybe I'll act on it.... Cheers

Everything is properly connected, checked timing, re did timing (idles a bit better now), but still won't start when hot unless I pull an injector out. And now the starter is getting more temporamental. Very often won't engage (but will whirr) when hot. THis is doing my head in now, not to mention very embrassing as there is a really loud high pitched squeel as it catches with the injector out (air passing through the injector housing). Not to mention I can't rely on it to do anything, shops, work....AAARRGGHHH!!! How much is a good 16V engine for a transplant these days?? :evil:

OK starter motor works now. (odd one - but I think I've noticed it doing that before) I can get the car started by taking out an injector and revving it, and then putting injector back in fast. It then runs, but idles very lumpy and definately feels like its lost some power. I checked timing on the belt again - looks fine, both TDC's line up. Each spark plug is definately sparking. The dizzy is adjusted one way as far as it will go, the other way makes the idle worse. Dunno wots wrong! Anybody got any ideas???

Just done head gasket, started it, went first time, took it for a spin and all was well. Now an hour later and it won't start. I've shecked for spark and fuel and its getting both. Funny thing though, it would catch with the injector out !!!! Now though the starter motor won't engage. Just whirrs. Wots with that??? Have two things happened at once?? Whats going on - it worked fine earlier. Tell you what, I've had just about enough with this car now - its let me down too often, and cost an unbelievable fortune :evil: If this isn't something simple, I might just get rid of it.... :(

V. cool. You know, those wheels are my favourite on the C. Well maybe I'm a bit biased........(though mine are only replicas). 30mm lowering??? Again, imo looks best.

Phew, Head now rebuilt sucessfully. What fun. Well at least it isn't leaking oil now. Methinks next job is a 2.0l turbo or a G60 conversion :D . Confidence growing by the day...

The thermoswitch sensor that turns the fan on and off is bottom right inside on the radiator.(when looking from front). Its a quick easy swop - simply remove the 4 bolts that attach the fan housing to the radiator, disconect the wiring conector from the fan and the thermoswitch and remove the housing complete with fan. The you simply unscrew the thermoswitch - have a new one in your other hand and swop quickly, as coolant will escape. Refitting is the reversal of removal - as they say You'll need to top up the coolant, run it to fan cut in -let it cool and top it up again. Karman, if its a 16v, I'm not sure what sensor your talking about, it aint the fan switch. Is your fan still working??