chargedupstorm

I Saw that car in Austria in the flesh and IMHO it did actually 'do it for me', I don't know what paint they used but it was almost like velvet to the touch... hence the leather tassles... ummm maybe I'll change my opinion.

Don't tell us you are going to fit some beach hammocks in there to let the portly squires get in and out easily?

I have fully registered versions of VAG-COM, but to change coded ECU values you have to have a specific login key for the chip. Amrik had to have this done to convert his ECU from automatic to manual. There may be a way round it, or a method of disabling the check for the immobiliser, check on the VAG-COM forums.

Mike from memory even with VAG-COM you need an authorisation key to log into the adoptive values of the ECU. I'd double check with Chris Gaskell first, but I'll bring my laptop with me just in case. Guy

Warning not to try it in a V6 24v lump MKIV, I managed to take the sump out on my R32 doing very similar over a humped back bridge... now if only there were some pictures! Good effort though!

I'm going to start dropping the dash in the Corrado later this afternoon; I've got the following to sort before 17th April CCGB AGM so I can do a longish test drive on my new belt configuration. Drop the dash to 1) fix hot/cold vents 2) sort the wiring of my navigation 3) install Aquamist DD2 Then the following: Change rocker cover gasket, re-spray rocker cover, finishing polishing VM VSR, re-route Aquamist, change cone filter, re-wire my Xenon's with new headlight connectors, finally get round to fitting that oil catch tank, and get the bonnet lifters on! Providing I get this done before the AGM I hope to be taking the Corrado!

Yeah VF Vortech stage 3 - without FMIC but with Aquamist ;-)

Yip no problem, I'm hoping to tackle it later this week so keep you posted.

The badge on ebay at the moment is for the gea gaitor surround... :-(

It basically involves placing sensors in all the vents, removing the cable box attached to the heater matrix and replacing / plastic welding on one from a motorised Climatronic car. When I remove my dash I'll take some pictures that may help...

If it's a geniune VAG part, any chance of getting the part number? I'm sure my parts contacts could better that discount if so. Any links to some pictures, I want to see if my S/C return pipe can be mounted in a similar location? TIA

If you are seriously interested in making one, I could loan you an original spare one I have to make a mould / copy? HTH

Nice one Chris's ;-) Exactly what do you mean by a touch of Grinding ? ;-) -- got my grinder at the ready!

I got x 2 Motorola T5500's from ebay, was going to give the other one to your car anyway but it would be useful if Doug and Jay also had them eh?

Thanks... it's about time I updated the site and the pix (note to self!)... An LSD is on the cards, but I wouldn't say I really need it at the moment. I was toying with a flywheel change too but I've just bought an Audi S3 with one and I don't think I could put the Corrado through the noise it creates at idle... let alone me! Got a few modifications to do / fit over the next couple of weeks so will be posting an update to my site.

No Amrik, I'm still using the standard Diavia setup 'behind the scenes'. The Climatronic isn't currently switching the A/C on (I have a switch to do this) but I'm looking at the wiring with interest..... so watch this space. I'm dropping the dash in the next couple of weeks to sort out some Navigation wiring issues, install a Origin B2 and sort out my vents so I'll have a go then.

Yip you have the right man ;-) I just got my walkie talkies delivered today too!

I had a blower replaced by Keith last yeah, he sourced one from a MKIII golf for me: (£78.60) He fitted it for me, fixed a leak (chaffed pipe) and did a full service too ;-) I can't recommend this Corrado friendly chap enough! Give him a bell: Workshop: 01932 570333, mobile 07885 239385 A/C Engineering, Unit 7, 12 Chertsey Bridge Road, Chertsey Surrey. KT16 8LF

Hi JRB, As mentioned above, you need to check that it’s not the factory immobiliser in VAG-COM or 1552, if not do the following: To rule out the immobiliser problem, I'd recommend getting another key cut (non transponder). Drop the lower plastic steering cowling, and with the new key in the barrel try and start the car, if you are getting the same symptoms then it could be the transponder reader on the ignition column. If you hold your original key close to the reader, (a cylindrical object with a wire leading from it around the steering column) and try and start the car again.. see what happens, many many moons ago I had a problem with my VR6 where the coil had slipped down the column and intermittently worked. Another problem had been the contacts on the transponder reader itself, it’s work disconnecting this and spraying some WD40. Good luck, Guy

kevhaywire, Does it feel like the car is about to stall, then the revs climb again? If so I had a similar problem many years ago before I modded my engine, and the culprit was the MAF of all things. I only noticed it when I was logging with VAG com, for some reason at idle the air flow was too turbulent over a faulty or dirty sensor. It's worthwhile either cleaning the MAF film with carb cleaner, or alternatively borrowing someone elses to rule this out as a problem. Good luck! When you say your schrick flap is rattling at idle, do you mean the valve or the flap itself? I had a noisy flap and it turned out to be a washer vibrating on the allen bolt that held it to the manifold, the bolt was actually all the way into the thread but was .02mm too long so it never nipped up to squeeze the washer tight and rattle free!

Right I've just ordered a pair of lifters (2 sets) - thanks for the warning Henny, from Volksbits and when Chris VR6nos, (hint hint) takes some more detailed pictures I'll do a write up as I'm fitting them to my later style bonnet. Don't like the idea of that carbon fibre bonnet now... :eek

Thanks corradovr6sc, Basically because the alternator pulley is ever so slightly out of line with the rest of the pulleys. (new 120amp alt.recently fitted) And because I am wraping round the back of the alt. pulley from the charger it is almost cutting the belt under tension. :-( I need to take the time to take the front of the car off again (A common occurance in my garage!) remove the charger / alternator and make sure they are all alligned properly. I'm currently using a Gates 7DPK 1363mm (Double sided 7 ribbed belt) because of the a/c pulley. - In actual fact I recently discovered I can get away with using the OEM VR6 with A/C belt but they are £58+VAT from a dealer, vs. £20+VAT for the Gates belts from my local motor factors. Happy to buy any spare belts around the 1360mm size if you have any though - Spares are good, especially with a drive to Worthersee planned!

I'm using a combination of both really, I got baffled by the maths but with my current flow rate but I could easily go through an entire washer bottle in 2 tanks of fuel and heavy on boost driving. I'm currently working on this recommendation: 'What is the maximum alcohol/ water ratio I should use? No more than 50%, otherwise you will increase the cylinder temperature rather than reducing it. Beyond that ratio, onset of detonation is more likely. Methanol freezes at -96 deg. C, 50% mixture will stop the mixture from freezing at around -40 deg.C.' By using an air / fuel ratio gauge you will get a good idea of what job the Aquamist is doing. I'm going to do some inlet temp logs with VAG-COM with it switched off and switched on to give some valid comparisons. For sure my car runs better when it's running! I'll even be armed with ice cubes for the washer bottle on my next power run too!

Depending on the flow of your metered air (MAF) I wonder how much difference the angle of the inlet from the throttle body makes to the air turbulance? The VSR has a more abrupt turn, (Don't I know it as I had to cut my inlet pipes again!) but in essence was easier to fit than the Schrick. I haven't had the chance to get my motor back on the rollers since fitting the VSR over the Schrick, coupled with fitting a new alternator and having to work out a more interesting layout for the serpentine belt so that it doesn't shred... - (This is something I've caused by the new alternator and it's pulley!) Oh and on another note people with VSR's fitted should check that they are getting full throttle!! Thanks to Glenn Cooper we discovered that when fitted with factory brackets the ISV fouls the full movement of the throttle. As much as only getting 70% throttle, this is without grinding off about 1.5cm's of the nylon throttle cable guide so that it opens past the ISV!! Amazing that such problems were missed by a number of reputable UK VAG tuners!!! I wonder exactly how many VSR's were produced, I remember reading somewhere they were limited to 700 and all numbered. But there are no serial numbers stamped anywhere on the cast on the 2 I've seen in the flesh. Anyone know?

I only recently bought the DD2 (Dash Display System2) including the flow sensor for my Aquamist kit... expensive at over £100 for what it is, but I'm investigating wiring it up to a Y band sensor in the cat-bypass pipe and then trigger a re-circ valve when the car is running lean. Obviously have to work out how to get a solonoid to trigger the release of the valve as the current re-circ only works on -ve vac. No I asked both AmD and Vince to try and order me some Schrick inlet specific gaskets in the past, but to no avail. I ended up making my own out of gasket paper which was time consuming in itself. To be honest you could get away with an OEM metal gasket on the Throttle body, I'm currently doing that on the VSR as I hate the 'making your own' procedure with relish! Or another trick of the trade, the gaskets from a Ford galaxy are cheap as chips and most motor factors stock them... they aren't metal but seem to last the same distance.