flusted

the 16v abf throttlebody is larger than the 8v 2e 1 but if you elongate the holes, it fits

what do you mean "what type"? it measures the outside air temp for the mfa display, same part on most 90spec golfs

i noticed in the engine harness is the wiper motor power, then the outside air temp sensor etc, so have cut out whats not needed from that lot, but thought i would ned to add the 20v wiring into whats left?

Im just helping a mte fit a 20v into a mk2 90spec 16v. Im in the process of doing the wiring at the moment. We have the complete 20v loom but arent using the clocks or barrell so need to know how to splice the 20v loom into the 16v loom? Any diaghrams out there that might help?

smoothing that entry should be fine, just some people find it easier to bore it out. heres the difference

leave it un plugged?

i find it is bearable with no wedge but i just look at the flow increase it must gain without it and decide to put up with the jerk. theres quite a sharp edge on the elbow that can be smoothed out but be carefull as ive poted through 2 of them elbows by accident :shock:

I also dewedged mine but it makes throttle very jerky so beware. I just hacked as much as i could out of everywhere and matched the 2 halfs together. Also opened upo the back of the throttlebody and match ported it to the inlet manifold

heres 1 i did

i didnt bother removing the switches but it should be easy. Undo the boost return linkage and the outer half is just held onto tb with 2 torq screws.# I used flap wheels to do mine then finished with wet n dry

it would be exactly the same as standard anyways as it still re routes the oil vapour back into the charger

yeah, its only a plate,a filter, and a hose though. All you need really

downpipe and front box will but middlebox and back box are a slight different angle. I fitted 1 once before, it does fit, but knocks and melted my bumper

its only late vrs that are soldered i think. if you change yours, make sure you put it in the right way,theres a dimple in the end of the chip to make sure it goes in the right way

how longs the prob been there?

thats everything except you will need a shorter oil filter tube from a non heat exchanger model i think

you can do similar by putting a vacuum hose in water and let the engine digest a small ammount

can you not spray it into the inlet manifold somewhere?

shrick is highly recommended

im pulling less vacuum on idle now is that right? it used to be -20 on boost gauge and now its -10?

i believe the inlet lobes are 1 duration and the exhaus are the other. Ment to minimize valve overlap to keep boost levels up? I could be talking out my arse tho

the shrick seems to give you the best of everything really. Its a split duration 268/272 i think?

the split duration 268/272?

ok, took it for a blast last night and although on the iow there isnt really anywhere to go fast for long safely, i managed to give it some stick in 1st,2nd, 3rd. The difference over a standard cam is amazing, the power comes on so much stronger at 2k and stays there right up through the rev range. I used to have a piper 285 and that didnt really kick in till 3.5k,but this cam is great Idle is a tad lumpy from cold but nowhere near as bad as the 285 All in all a great cam that im well chuffed with Thanks g-werks

i got my reds from us ebay for about £20 they are same as mustang 1s. Id suggest getting a bbm rsr outlet from g-werks next, thats really about it without spending lots