Gareth

Thanx 4 all you help guys.... i bought a new slave cylinder from ecp and when replacing the cylinder i rounded the head on the pipe that goes into the slave cylinder :cry: and some how i lost the rubber bush along with the 2 washers :mad: so orded a new pipe, bush and washers.... they had none in stock and i had 2 wait another day.... then when the day of delivery was upon me i phoned to make sure the parts had arrived, the bush and 1 washer is on back order :mad: yet more time b4 i can drive the love of my life :cry:

i thought that too henny :lol:

:shock: very nice .... i like the sound of 2 s/c's :evil:

i clicked the link :roll:

the bolt on the slave cylinder (the 1 closest to the front) is not accessible unless i remove the linkage lever... is this true?? if i do that will the gear selector require setting up...... also can any1 tell me the size of the bolts.... what i meen is the size of the spline tool needed to remove bolts

well on closer inspection there is fluid all over the top of my gearbox casing and it has ran down n left a patch on the floor. so its looking like the slave cylinder has snuffed it..... does this sound bout right to every1 else..... so just to add if the cylinder has gone then bleeding wont do anything or will it??

thanx for anser to my Q. G-man :D

getting in the car to goto work this morning as i pushed the clutch pedal i got to about half way down the travel of the pedal and there was a clunk and i lost the feel of the pedal under my foot. So looking down the pedal was all the way to the floor.... got out the car and with my hand i can pull the pedal up and push back down.... it feels like the spring is takeing over about half way down and pulling the pedal to the floor.... so im guessing.. but there isnt any hydraulic pressure to return the pedal. Looking at my manual in the troubleshooting section it has 3 possible causes: Air in hydraulic system, piston seized in master or slave cylinder and hydraulic system leak or master and slave leaking... so any ideas?? and if either cylinder has gone is there a way of finding whitch cylinder has gone?.... or is it a case of buy both master and slave and replace at the same time??

Thanx for all your advice :)

sweet thanx for info.... just 1 more question. the charger tensioner is that spring n strut item which also keeps belt under tension, im assuming the later.... when fitting this kit is the original tensioner ok to be used or is there an aftermaket item required?

Lol Henny :lol: .... sweet thou m8.. Just to add a question... this kit eliminates belt slip but what are the drawbacks? ..... Do bearings suffer as a result of no slip under load?

too true Henny i had the same problem and had to buy a new window controler from the stealers cost £110 :cry: anyway i didnt just go out n buy 1 i went thru the trobleshooting guide in the bentley manual first...... all tests carried out pointed to the window controler at fault.... replaced item and problem fixed

I have a 91 corrado and would like some pointers on where to look out for the dredded rust...

i was thinking bout this ahead of the time when i want to buy the rieger r-rs bottom bumper and was looking and in the end i thought im gonna have a bash at it myself :scratch: Anyway its a bold move but no1 learns with a defeatist attitude :crazyeyes: so it looks a little crude but i found this plastic welding kit http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/tool ... 809P1238M0 .... anyway im a little nervous bout possibley wasting £200..... but....... never mind:)

as mentioned earlyer this isnt really in line of site with them being low, but i found this in ETKA and then went looking 4 a picture, im not sure if its availible in the UK as i havent asked the Stealers yet.... but food for thought anyway..... this mounts on 2 lugs on the roof of the cubby hole so as i have a 91 G60 i would have to change the center console or mod my exsisting console..... like i said just food for thought :)

A sweet upgrade.... i did this to mine not long after i bought the car so this was my first mod :D I could not have been happer with the upgrade and seen a diffrence from the lights straight away..... im using the standard bulbs so im sure things will become clearer with better bulbs :)

If im reading the bentley manual correctly which im sure i am :wink: pre 92 models (none vr6) did not have the variable intermitant wiper relay. ofcoarse the info in the manual is based on US spec models. as i understand the diagrams in the manual the variable intermitant wiper relay is a direct replacement for the fixed intermitant wiper relay

Thanx 2 every1'nz responce to my post :) in the book im reading it says to do the car park braking test :wink: and in the bentley manual it has a stand with 2 pressure gauges connected to left front and right rear brake calipers. in the manual with brake pedal pressed it gives the value of the pressure that should be obtained on the gauges...... there is a little more to it but thats the long n short of it...... oh BTW thats on cars without ABS..... So i would think that the latter method is more accurate. What do u guys think is the first method just as affective as the second...... or is it worth paying some1 with the equipment to ajust the valve after lowering :?: ..... after all brakes are very important especially at high speed braking :mrgreen:

Mines an F..... which does not supprize me :roll: Thats Middlesbrough for ya :crazyeyes:

http://www.Ultraleds.co.uk already sell LEDs for just that purpose. They even have the correct fitments and resistors built in, so are plug and play. They're specifically designed for car interiors. They're in the 12V car LED section. K Sweet Kev thanx 4 the link i'll have 2 buy sum of them as mine is not working also :roll:

i'm currently reading a book called Volkswagen Sport Tunning for street and competition. This has mentioned the affects on the Brake proportioning Valve after lowering the car. saying that, Quote: You fool the the system into thinking that it has a lot of weight in the trunk/boot of the car, making the rear brakes lock up too soon....... Has any1 had these symptons happen to them :?: or is this mis-infomation :?:

i'm no expert with the panel in question but with slight mods is it not possible to use a Ultra bright LED with a resistor in line or a wide angle ultra bright LED with a resistor. with voltage an current consuption of the LED at its working voltage its easy to work out what value resistor to use. :)

ok Guys thanx for the posts which have brought questions about the claims the site makes to the forfront of my mind :oops: so i have e-mailed 1 of the labs that the site says tested the product and hope i will get a reply. Sorry corvr6 im backing out until im more convinced...... sorry again corvr6

I'm Convinced.... so if you get enough people then i'll have one. £34 is nothing really if its true what it says..... worth a try anyway :) let me know how you want me 2 make payment n how much exactly

thanx henny....... still considering the deepdish look but still unsure about what offset to use with 16x8.0........ I wish i could speak and read German :!: :(