Tempest

Considering that the weather in Munich will be harsher than in Blighty, it at least is also a lot drier (in terms of relative air humidity), whereas Britain suffers from severe air humidity swings (noticed that again over the weekend: Saturday, although it was mild, the engine block in my garaged G60 was wet to the touch :shock:), so a slightly different set of rules may apply compared to laying up a car in Blighty. It is actually easier, as the relative humidity is the biggest enemy (build up of condensation in box holes :shock:). Anyway, the tips normally given on the German Sciroccoforum are: Yes, use those silica-bags, leave the windows and tailgate opened a little to allow circulation of air into the car. Stuff an oily rag into the zorst, place car on axle stands to minimise wear on tyres (best way to store these is to lay them flat on the ground), cover up car with a cotton or fleeced sheet to keep dust away, and that's pretty much it. That's also how I lay up my cars in Blighty, but as mentioned, here I'm faced with the dreaded air humidity swings that I haven't really found anything against yet (heating the garage or sticking in a dehumidifier is not an option, as I have no electricity in 2 of my 3 garages :-( ) Tempest

How low is your C then? Just recently bought a nice trolley jack from Machine Mart that starts at 110 mm saddle height, which is low enough for my 3 cars anyway :lol: Tempest

I'd still say get the top mounts done asap, as they're crucial to handling. Just need a special 22 mm socket with a slot in it to stick an Allen key through for undoing the top nut. I'm on the lookout for one, as I'm starting to form a plan of wanting to change my suspension all round, and then I might as well go for new top mounts at the same time (did that on my Storm 3 years ago). Tempest

:shock: Cheap, very cheap, as good Mk1 tend to now fecth several thousand! Then again, depends in what condition this Mk1 for 800 is, as they do tend to rust, sometimes beyond (welding) repair. If that's the 1.6 GTI engine, it's a very fun, revvy engine to drive, BTW, the Ur-GTI engine, in fact :-) Tempest

:lol: Well, let's hope it's the ISV then, and moreover let's hope you'll finally get your hands on one (that works, as the ebay one may still be knackered !! Happened to me when buying a fuel lift pump off someone, only to find that my Storm Rocco still had the same symptoms, until I took the pump apart to find that it was knackered :-( ). Tempest

Shame it chucked it down so much yesterday, as I did pack my multimeter into my C, plus loads of other things, just in case the weather did turn favourable on us. Next time we meet up ... Tempest

Yes, any bank can do international money transfers, and will prefer the IBAN and BIC numbers. Shop around though, as you'll be surprised to learn how expensive these transfers can be, and how much difference their may be between banks. Co-op is the cheapest for me so far, charge 8 quid for a "Tipanet" transfer. That takes 5-6 working days. Just to translate this bit: Postbank Leipzig (Name of bank), sort code: 86010090 Account number: 604900900 Account holder: S.Hennersdorf Tempest

Yes, I went over to him about 1.5 weeks ago to collect some parts, when BlueJoe aka Sam also came over to visit Steve. Best to try his GSF email address. Tempest

What would you need the Rocco intake manifold for, if you're, as I understand it, looking at reshuffling the engine bay, such that the MBC lies in a straight line with the pedal, i.e. on the right hand side of the car (looking in driving direction)? You won't have any space then for the airfilterbox, which is why the whole lot gets transferred to the right hand side of the engine bay, with a Goof KR intake manifold. Unless you're looking at building a proper Rocco, i.e. one with the steering wheel on the left hand side (there were no brake linkage issues there at all, ever :-) ). To demonsrtate that, we could ask the nice bloke in the above video, whether he would be so kind enough to open the bonnet on his 16V Rocco :lol: Tempest

Yes, 3rd from left, top row on the main fuse panel (has 2 rows), not counting the 2 extra rows on top of the main fuse box. Tempest

No. 3 on the fuse box. Tempest

Yup, mention the CCGB. Also mention you're subscribed to some mags. It all goes to show that really, we're just being ripped off by the insurance companies, or more precisely the brokers, as if membership to clubs and reading mags makes any difference (if any), then I wonder what insurance is actually all about. People should claim less when non-Corrados are involved to get the overall costs down, hence to get premiums doen, oh and insurrance companies should make less profit (so they're not in a position where they're wondering what to do with all the money, hmm, let's build another brandnew state-of-the-art headoffice ... :mad:). You should have received a letter this summer outlining that the CCGB is only publishing 2 mags a year, this was also discussed at the AGM :-) The 2nd one for this year is actually being finalised by the editor(s). In additoon to the mags, as a member you have exclusive access to the CCGB forum, picture area, where SteveMac posts up all sorts of piccies of shows etc., provided he receives them, of course. The CCGB is and always will be very much a club for its members run by its members, yes, every member :-) Tempest

The fairly conclusive test done on these venturi-disk driven K-Jet metering units is to with the fuel system still pressurised lift the disk from beneath with your finger, all the way to the top, whereby with a good unit you will notice a uniform resistance along the entire path, and no hard or sticking points, then let go of the disk, and it should fall back immediately. This then should indicate a freely moving piston in the metering unit itself, in which case the thing is OK, as the centre piston is the most likely cause for failure of these units (they simply can rust :shock:). Still believe it to be a vac-leak or ISV related issue. Tempest

There's one going (KR engine) on the German Sciroccoforum for a measely 1200 Euros :shock: Germany had 2 16V engine types in their Roccos: KR (139 PS) and PL (with CAT, 129 PS). Well, their comments were rather sarcastic, as they knew full well, that they can shaft him, and they did. Still, as it's the German police ultimately enforcing the law in their country, the driver IMHO got away "cheaply", loss of license for only 3 months ... tsts. When I tell my Germna mates to stop whinging about just having lost their license for 3 months, I remind them that in the UK you lose your license for a whole year. They then shut up :lol: Almost, as he actually tried to claim that he hadn't noticed that he was being chased by the police :lol: He also initially claimed that he was sober, then admitted he'd had one beer. Once he'd done his blojob thing :lol: he corrected his statement with it was a large beer, to which the Dutch copper (:lol:) said that it must have been a 3 litre beer or something. The German coppers then let the drug dogs out :lol: Tempest

As seen on the 1.6 billion new Internet TV-channel, Youtube :lol: Dutch TV programme, german 16V Rocco being chased by Dutch coppers, and finally stopped in Germany. Initial impression was "Wow, cool car, oh yes, it's a Rocco, of course, look how well it handles, especially on the tight Autobahn exit (they are f*cking tight in Germany, as those that went on the Karmann trips will be able to testify)" Then the commentatorship towards the end of the video revealed it all: 3 litres of beer, 0.35 permille alcohol (well above the legal limit in the Netherlands, where the car was first breaking the law), drugs influence (some of which were thrown out of the window still driving in the Netherlands, resulting 3 months without a license (penalties for these things are fairly "cheap" in Germany, where the guy got booked by the German police), and a fine of approx. 3 to 4k Euros. The latter is a shame, as you can get a stonking good 16V Rocco for that money. Tempest

Got a set of Brembo Max for my Mk2 Storm recently, and will fit them whenever I feel like (i.e. when the current disks are a bit more worn and the pads are run down a bit further. I'm intending on coupling the Brembos to Pagid FR pads (one of the last sets I managed to get through SteveMac at GSF). SteveMac told me that Pagid have dropped the FR range, as they're now all the same company with mintex, hence they're reshuffling their product range. The Mintex Extreme are allegedly the successors to the Pagid FR, but Steve wasn't too happy with them, looking at them: They have a thick backplate (to match a wider range of cars, hence making them cheaper to manufacture) with a much thinner actual friction layer. The recommended successor pads are the EBC Greenstuff pads, where the composition has recently been changed and they're found to be OK by GSF, and are recommended in place of the old Pagid FR. Why do good products always get discontinued? :roll: Tempest

When standing in front of your engine bay, on the right hand side towards the bottom, and on the engine side of the rad, round thing with a 2-wire cable running from it. Tempest

Yes, the old AVO's, sturdy bits of kit, that my former Uni still has a few flying about (today's modern kiddie students wouldn't know what to do with them anyway :lol:), and I tend to get one on loan, if I need some serious and accurate kit. Other than that I use a 25 quid Tandy unit (I know, they don't exist anymore, the multimeter is getting on a bit, but still does everything I want it to do: V, A, Ohms, Continuity, Frequency, Capacitance, only thing it doesn't have that would be handy for me for my Mk1 would be duty cycle). Apart from that I also got a cheapo analogue multimeter from maplins to get display any trends, as digital mulitmeters are indeed slow to refresh their display, well mine anyway :lol: Tempest

Heretic :lol: In addition to which one of the 2 you like to drive, it may also be worth your while to analyse how easy you find each to potentially do any work on yourself. With Corrados generally getting older, you may find that you'll have to do more and more work on them yourself, as garages who still know how to repair and generally do things to our cars get fewer and fewer (and hence also more and more expensive). The latter point largely swayed the decision to a G60 in my case. The learning curve was still very steep compared to the simple yet effective and fun to drive and work on 8V GTI engines in my Roccos. Tempest Tempest

Yup, got mine from maplins when I did my loom :-) Gallagher Retail Park, Jim. Tempest

Just read the monthly ADAC mag, that I as a member get. It contains a recall section, taken from this month's section (VAG): 100 Passats recalled (Type B6 with 2 litre FSI, built in the period 11/05 till 1/06) because of a software error (typical ... :lol:). Software on the ECU needs re-programming as - wait for this, almost sounds like Windows - during WOT the fuel pump could immediately shut off :shock: Modern balloon rubbish anyone, sorry airbags? Here you go: 200 Audi A3 (model 2006, type 8P) recalled, as due to a slow gas leak in the head airbag they can fail. Gas cartridges are changed during the recall. 12000 Audi A8 recalled (model D3, built in period from 3/02 till 3/04) it could happen that the driver airbag doesn't fully inflate (hmm, inflatables - told you, I don't rate this stuff other than taking the mickey - will get flamed no doubt :lol:), needs to be inspected and where necessary exchanged. All I want is a road-legal go-kart (no fluffiness, no creature comforts), all other cars removed from roads (except type 53s), hence no accidents :lol: Tempest

Best to replace that hose with a new one, as it might perish further down the hose from where you've observed it perishing. VW part number: 535 145 838 (if your G60 has chassis number above 50-M-000 661, else part number: 357 145 838A) That hose conducts the compressed air (compressed by the G-lader, cooled down by the intercooler, then travelling through the plastic pipe with the CO-pot and temp-sensor attached on the side) through this hose into the throttle-body. Tempest

Oh, sounds even more travelled than mine, which has only seen the US (Maryland), Germany, Scotland :lol: and the West Midlands. Shame though that it's been sold already ... Tempest

Time to get the fuel manometer out then? Got one ... Well, easy to set the ignition timing by ear, yes, but CO-value? Wow! Tempest

Just having looked at the 9A on my PC, the metering unit looks very familiar, similar to the one on my 2 Roccos. Without any feedback for the CO-value, it is like stabbing in the dark trying to set the CO-screw. The JH-code engine has a nifty Lambda-ECU-output, where you can read the output voltage, which is proportional to the CO-value, hence making adjusting the CO-screw relatively simple (done that numerous times, since having messed about with unheated and heated Lambda sensors, as my HCs often were too high for the MOT, still legal, but high). Got it all soprted thanks to the use of a heated sensor, and some more adjusting of the CO-screw. Hope this is as simple on the 9A ;-) Tempest