Tempest

Tempting as the thought may be, the answer is "no". End of this week I hope all will be revealed :-) Tempest

OK, Nick, since it's you, but that's it then :-): 2nd clue: What other word contains the letters IROC in exactly that order? Tempest

Nothing to be sorry about, it's all part of the hype and sensation of the idea of a new Scirocco/Corrado/whatever-it's-going-to-be-called on the horizon :-) Tempest

Yup, that's how I managed to get all 3 rounded off Allen bolts out of my crankshaft pulley assembly and rear brake caliper bracket :-) Tempest

Same piccies as posted in this thread: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=44203&highlight= Another Schulte Design creation, not necessarily VW at all. Tempest

I'll give away 1 clue: VW's involved. Tempest

Well, after lots and lots of speculation, all will be revealed shortly, as VW are holding a bit of a launch event in Berlin in August to reveal their prototype of the "Iroc". I'm off soon :-) Tempest

Now and then, yes, as my parents live in D. He passed that test yesterday, so I feel a bit more comportable giving him the keys to my next up baby, my Mk2 Storm. The Mk1 Rocco remains an entirely different story, of course :-) Tempest

Let's see what they'll tell my business colleague, who'll have to take my Storm back on Tuesday for them to have another look (as I'll be in Germany for a few days). My colleague might yet turn into a Roccofanatic :lol: He already had my C for a bit of fun today, but then again is used to a "proper car", as he calls it: Audi S4 estate (230 bhp). Tempest

After yesterday's success with my Mk1 Rocco at the MOT I am now slightly frustrated, as I've just come back from the Storm's MOT, failed !! Failed on the rear brakes, which it had failed on last year, as well. I had the same test station repair the brakes last year (as I didn't want to do that myself again, having done it once before is enough, thank you), and now they failed me again on the same thing. So I got rather stroppy with the office manager, and said that they should fix it with it not costing me a penny. "You don't drive it often enough, so the brakes have seized!" "Listen, that car has done less than 2000 miles, which I can prove to you using your own MOT certificates, in the last year, has been tucked away in a dry garage during the entire winter, and, no, brakes shouldn't fail then!" He then agreed to have another look at the brakes. I just know they'll find some lousy excuse, i.e. find something that's gone faulty, which isn't covered by last year's repair, even though I can't think of anything myself, being quite familiar with that rear section. I even suggested to the tester that there must have been some sloppy workmanship involved or the MOT results fiddled when they passed me last year (as I wasn't there watching when they did the repair and passed it). He didn't like that. Well, I too, have to deal with customers on a daily basis, so it felt good to finally be a customer from hell myself (and justifiably so, I feel) giving it some :-) The only time I didn't do a job myself and left it to a garage ... :mad: I now regret that ... Tempest

If I haven't misunderstood anything here, kongo127 is referring to the cover located at the right hand end of the gearbox (facing in driving direction of car), which sits on the side of the gearbox, whereas Neil's leak seems to stem from the driveshaft flanges. Whereas the former is easy to repair (just a bit difficult to get to, as space is a bit tight to the inner wing), the latter (i.e. driveshaft flange seals) is a bit more involving (need to do this on my Mk1 Rocco shortly): Take off drive shaft at gearbox end (undo 6 Torx bolts), and hang out of the way (to not damage the joint). Use a puller to take off flange from differential shaft. Prise out seal and replace (grease up new one a little bit). Installation is reversal of removal. This version is heavily abbreviated but in essence has all the necessary points. Tempest

... when he got out of my Mk1 Rocco, after he'd taken it out for a spin armed with a decelerometer, as the Mk1 won't go onto the brake test rollers (too low at the front, not much higher where my manifold comes down, either as i noticed today, on entering their forecourt and scraping on a speed bump :mad: - no damage, though, phew). He was in right bad mood when I met him, had fallen out with the boss, was f-ing and blinding like mad, but once he'd finished the little drive in mine, he was all cheered up again, big grin stretching from ear to ear. "That's how cars should be, oh how I hate testing all those everyday sheds I get all the time, and each one in just half an hour, which isn't enough, which is why I fell out with the boss today!". OK, mate, can I have my Rocco back now, please? :lol: Passed for another year, no probs either on the emissions :-) Tomorrow it's the Mk2 Storm's turn ... Tempest

Already checked the main connector to the ABS ECU, and the connector still looked like new, no traces of water, just a bit of dust on the top, that's it. Today, whilst Jim and I went to have a 4-wheel alignment on our Cs, I reset the ABS ECU (1 minute driving at 60 km/h - difficult in Coventry with all its traffic :lol:), and now have a nice 4 times 4 blinks, i.e. no fault :-) My above fault codes probably stemmed from me faffing about with all sorts of ABS sensor connectors whilst then switching on and off the ignition, thus adding a new fault code to the ECU's memory each time. Tempest

OK, will reset the system tomorrow and see which code is re-generated, as a visual check of all connectors, test of fuses and relais didn't reveal any faults. A test of all 4 wheel speed sensors revealed nothing (nice 1.15 kOhm stationary, turning the wheel the resistance fluctuated from 0 Ohms to 2.2 kOhm (rear right even up to 3 kOhm), apart from the left rear sensor, which barely managed to scrape to 2 kOhm, and only once. How do I best clean the sensors? Tempest

Solution found, here are all the known blink codes (from a German site) for the ABS on a 1990 G60: Codes ABS ************************** 0-0-0-0..........End of reading blink codes 1-1-1-1..........ABS control unit faulty 1-1-1-2..........ABS inlet valve front left 1-1-1-4..........ABS inlet valve front right 1-1-2-2..........ABS inlet valve rear 1-1-3-2..........ABS outlet valve front left 1-1-3-4..........ABS outlet valve front right 1-1-4-2..........ABS outlet valve rear 1-2-1-3..........No signal from the speed sensor 1-2-2-2..........ABS main valve 1-2-3-3..........Faulty ABS speed sensor front left 1-2-4-1..........Faulty ABS speed sensor front right 1-2-4-3..........Faulty ABS speed sensor rear right 1-3-1-1..........Faulty ABS speed sensor rear left 1-3-1-2..........ABS-pressure warning switch I and II 4-4-4-4..........No error! Tempest

Can somebody look up the following sequence of blink codes for me please :-)? 1 2 2 2 1 2 3 3 1 2 4 3 1 3 1 1 I recently noticed that with the ignition on my ABS light started blinking a code sequence at me. A quick glance at the wiring diagrams in my Bentley revealed that these are indeed the blink codes from the ABS controller. By shorting the yellow/blue wire and the brown wire for a few seconds after each blink code (terminated by a long singular blink before the code is repeated) I read out the next code until I got 4 long blinks (4 times 0), followed by the ABS light staying permamently on (heard the relais labelled 79 - ABS relais - also click). Sorry if this has already been discussed before, but couldn't find anything using the search. Thanks for looking up the codes (haven't got VAG-com). :-) Tempest

That's not how it works, I was told by my insurer (based on my accident 3.5 years ago): Britain has the client-unfriendly (but very insurer-friendly) so-called "direct insurance system", where you claim everything from your own insurance, who on proof of your innocence (police reports help them come to that decision in a "fight" between your insurance and the opponent's, as the police report is not allowed to give any verdict :shock:) then claim off the opponent's insurance, but until such time you get all the bad points etc., as you're still claiming off your own insurance. As both insurers try to keep the cost down, the client usually gets screwed, has to put up with w*nkers of insurance-appointed so-called evaluation engineers (yeah, what's a Rieger rear skirt got to do with a Mondeo bumper? Seriously, that's what my insurance appointed engineer said, whereupon I called him an incompetent w*nker, and told the insurance that, too, as I reminded them that I am still their customer, and they should be able to tell their shopping trollies from highly modded show&shine cars). On the continent they still have the predecessor to our system, where you simply send in a lawyer to the opponent's insurer and sue the crap out of them, and hence don't have to touch your own insurance. You're usually also covered against the legal expense of sending your lawyer in to the opponent's insurer. The down-side is the immense amount of abuse this system allows by the clients/insured, as you can almost get away with anything in terms of getting your car fixed (things that weren't caused by the accident). You also get to appoint the damage assessor yourself, and hence you choose a good 'un ;-) Not meaning to frighten you, just be well-prepared, it pays off to ask a few questions with your insurance company (like I did back then, and learnt a heck of a a lot in the process, you get to realise what a scam this whole insurance business is ;-) ). Good luck :-) Tempest

How about yet another picture released in the German press? Discuss :-) Tempest

I always like that, as they, of course, claim it straight of the opponents insurance (or do they first claim it off yours, who in turn claim it off the opponent's?). I'd double-check with your own insurance, especially if you're close to the end your insurance year, as they'll use any excuse to increase the premium for the new year. Tempest

Bad news indeed. Lucky that neither the damage nor the cops was more severe. Hope you get the wing sorted. Don't know what it is with Japcar drivers, as my Mk1 Rocco got rear-ended nearly 3.5 years ago by a Japcar. In my case it was a Nissan 100 or something, another boooooring family car. Unfortunately that time the damage to my Karmann was far more severe than to his crap Japcar. Fortunately thanks to plenty of witnesses and the fact that a police car drove by a few minutes later and took note of the whole thing, I didn't have to kill that driver, which i nearly did, particulalry after he even tried to waffle his way out by suggesting I had cut him off !!! Yeah, right, we were all going in a line, crawling, noweher to go, let alone be cut off ... Tempest

Yup, if you're lucky in that you can get to the screw and undo it ;-) The part from Autohausaz is the one, but I would recommend VW original parts, as some of the 3rd party parts can go faulty quicker than VW's own parts. No, as the VR6 uses the later style turn signal and fog light lense. On the early G60 (up to and including 1991) these lights are a bit more recessed into the bumper compared to the later spec. Corrados). Tempest

Badly phrased on my side: The switch indeed is a combination of mechanicals and electrics, if you want to put it like that, but cannot be split into the 2 parts. It comes as a complete unit, sits at the rear of the lock barrel on the steering column. You do not need new keys when you change the switch. Tightening or loosening the small screw won't make much difference, TBH, just change the switch. Tempest

No, it's usually the switch that fails itself. I've tried opening the broken one on my C after I'd replaced it, but just broke it, as it's all moulded and sealed, not meant ot be self-repaired. Tempest

Good news: This Corrado still exists, and is potentially still for sale!!!!! Anyone intyerested? PM me! Tempest

Ignition switch went on my US-G60 recently, right b*stard to get out and replace as the lock assembly is held onto the steering wheel column with 2 shear-off bolts, which are both made of hardened steel ... nice ... NOT! By the sound of your description, it's your iginition switch that's gone, not the lock. The switch is located at the rear of the lock assembly on the right hand side of the steering column (obviously ;-) ). Tips are on the Corradoclub of USA site: Basically, if you can't get the tiny little screw holding the switch to the lock assembly out by hand or with some sort of funnily bent watchmakers' screwdriver, then simply chisel the head off, and use cable-ties to attach the loom connector and new switch to the lock assembly, thereby also improving on the original design :-) Even my local bodyshop does it like that, he told me. Get new switch from VW, not that expensive. Is it just the mirror glas/reflector? Carefully pry that off with a plastic lever or something and get a new one from the junkyard. Ebay, Potters (http://www.parts4vws.com/) or similar places in the US. Tempest