Bobby

I have just fitted some refurbed mk3 golf rear calipers with the integrated hanbrake mechanisms, but want to switch the cables over as they were rusted. Should I use the mk3 golf cables of late corrado ones? I have chucked the old cables away otherwise I could have checked if they were long enough, thanks

I have external 16v pump just need to check it complete, it was quite whiney before I removed it but the one I fitted sounds the same too so may just be the case with all the high pressure pumps?

i'd wire in a remore cental locking kit as it will no doubt be cheaper than a pait of normal corrado handles

same as some of the previous comment you are paying for a fancy colour not for a superior brake pad, mintex all the way from now on...

look on the tdi forum, username g60ing has a detailed build there and I thinki mikki's is up ther too.

turned out they were just 280mm in the end :(

Can anyone confirm if the ibiza cupra 288mm calipers , carriers and discs would be a straight fit to get a 4 studded 288mm front brake setup on an early corrado 16v? thanks

note to position and orientation of the chip in the oe key replicate its position in the flip key and it should be fine, thats what i did with mine - the oe key has a slot for the chip anyway.

black and white trace black with green trace

I recently put green stiff ebc pads and brembo max grooved discs and was dissapointed with the stopping power, maybe down to the fluid needing a change but they were only on par to the standard vag discs and mintex pads they replaced. Peronally I would save for a g6o upgrade, calipers and carriers with mintex pads and oe discs.

I have the low fuel light in my clock cluster... but its from a passat tdi as i'm running a AHU tdi engine :lol:

The mk3 subframe does fit is uses wide track wishbones so you need to keep the corrado one the rear mounts are too fare back to bolt up after the arb so they need trimming down and redrilling, a mk3 tdi one fits as that what i've just fitted to mine.

how close it is to allowings the collets to be removed? if very close the use a standard socket on the back of the spring retainer , socket side down and give it very quick tap with a hammer , this allows the collets to drop out if done quick enough saves faffing around but really depends on how bad the valves are bent, any pics?

suprised how good the dye has covered over the black, what are those front seats your using?

looks like a good job there

what type of fixing holds the cable to the gear stick mechanism?

does anyone know if the can the gear change cable be changed without dropping the shifter mechanism, the cable that is used for the back/forward movement is the one in question, cheers Bobby

exactly what neil said if you want it subtle get the bumper split and get another section plastic welded in welded in, get the exhaust recess and tow eye flushed then it might just look half decent

never mind the wheels look at what the guys done to the mirrors on the blue corrado second pic, looks smart

you've got an early spec bumper in your pic, the late spec the ridge that runs along the upper edge of the bumper doesn't curl in like the early spec ones, late spec wings are slighter wider

andy 655 what are those alloys, they are phat.

which paint shop did you use in donny?

personally i would get a compression test done first if the compression values are below standard then your looking pistons rings and possible reboring depending on the wear on the cylinders which can be measured once the head has been removed. whilst the heads off get new guides pressed in and rebuild the head with new stem seals and what ever else cam timing chain and tappets (if required) etc. If you intend to keep the car i'd be tempted to drop in some new rings and bottom end bearings aswell (aslong as the step on the cylinder is within range) as doing the stem seals and guides, as it will save you time and hassle from having doing it further down the line. Cost wise the parts you require aren't that much,a full head gasket set, bottom end bearings and piston rings its the labour cost of taking the engine apart and building it back up. I would say if your confident with the spanners do the stem seals yourself and try strip the head down as much as possible so the only cost would be getting the valve guides taken out and new guides pressed in. Hope that helps, pm me if you get stuck

jimmi the prep work is looking good can't wait to see the finished job, i use the lechler paint and laquer too as it decent stuff, heard about this dolphin stopper glaze before any ideas where i can get some as the lechler stopper i used last time showed up after a few months on panel i did before - slightly sunk

whats the weight of the 15" wheel and the 17"? i found the 17" to have a more responsive turn in than the 15" with 205/50, but like you said more twicthy in the wet on 17" and slower pickup deppending on wheel and tyre weight.