Bobby

yeah the reiger was a better fit than the jom

just fitted a jom one and the grill was an arse to fit i would recommend trial fit it first, the fit is way of compared to the reiger one i fitted to a mates, best to heat up the grill and flex it back towards to lights before you get the grill painted otherwise you'll have to screw the ends down above the headlights. Anyone got front on pic of the jom fitted to their corrado?

how difficult is it to install yourself and what exactly does the set up consist of?

what equipment did you use for the plastics welding? any more pics/info of how your doing the plate recess as i'm doing mine at the moment, your corrado is looking mint as usual. Lots of respect for doing the work yourself

very nice mate looks like a top paint job too, will be paying your sprayer a visit soon.

theres some on sale on edition 38 for £250 no tyres et 25 front and et 15 back

or try http://www.vwspares.co.uk

a useful bit of info there rossco, cheers

like mentioned before things can only get better with practice i started on flat colours flash red etc then went onto metalics and pearls, started on my flushed front bumper this week i will post up some pics tommorow of the jom grill, handle and rear number plate panel i sprayed over the weekend in 2pac aqua blue pearl. The laquer is the hardest part to finish for most people, flusted when i spayed a friends base red car we then laquered it over as this prevent the colour fading and gives a glass shine :shock: i'll post up a pic to show you what i mean. I always use gravity guns just prefer them over the base feed type,thoroughly recommend devilbliss top quality equipment :D .

they are the same

cheers blinky i was actually asking which wire is the illumination wire for the electric switch lights, back lit lights looked like a ball ache to do from when i had my clocks outs.

any more pics of the way you mounted the pcb board to the clock, i have done the blue leds to replace the bulbs but it looks a bit spotlight like you said , any ideas which wire is for illumination on the electric windows for a 1990 valver, as mine don't light up.

sounds good , you thinking about one solenoid to operate both latches or one per latch?

have you considered the 180bhp ko3s lump as these are more cheaper than the 225bhp lumps but can be mapped to over 200bhp aswell

ving60 what rear engine bracket did you use as my mate rav has a 225bhp tt lump in his mk3 golf and said the rear mount was a bit of a headache (something to do with the piping to the turbo). Also do all the qpe kits come with the switchable boost if i remember rightly his is 270bhp at 0.7bar and switches to 365bhp at 1.5bar!

with a bit of fiddling i had managed to have mk3 golf mfa stalks with the early square hazard switch, i made one set from the early corrado and mk3 golf ones.

looks like you have a late bonnet aswell from the pics maybe its had a new front panel and other bits

very nice , i think if you painted the black centres on the alloys the dish would stand out more, some sweet mods and well done for doing all the work yourself. pm sent with a few q's

i changed the rear gearbox one for a golf diesel on mates 16v and changed mine to a vibratechnics one, the old one wasn't that worn though, would like to know if the rear mk2 td fits as mine needs doing too.

waz was that with the flat caps and 16 * 9"

i've just changed the front one as i had the same clunk at low speeds when chanding gears so i changed the front one, no change, changed the gearbox one still clonking so looks like the rear one is dead :(

i've done the twin cam mod without using the adjusted chainwheel just marked the cam using a guide i was emailed, have to admit it easy to get a tooth out but when its done right makes the car pull alot better at low revs with no loss on top end.

check the width on the alloy if it is 7 to 7.5 , 205/40/17 are what you need.

i'd better get some aqua blue mixed up quick time then, i've always used 2 pac and never had a problem, from the pics of jays new paint the finish looks very good.

cheers you it the nail on the head with the sensor suggestion, i changed the isv control module it made no difference so moved onto checking the sensor and wiring, pulled the wirng off and the spade on the sensor came aswell. One new sensor later and the idle valve has come alive again, thank you for the information