Bobby

bally check the bulbs then work backwards, i'm sure the headlight loom can be disconnected from the main loom, see if you can borrow a headlight switch and try that first.

mine too

what condition were the cylinder bores in, was there a step at the top? what was the compression like. Whilst the heads of get some new piston rings in if not done already.

cat x is what you want , won't show on the hpi check making it easier to sell on. If you sell it cheap enough compared to other 4 motions of similar spec on the market then fair enough you will probably shift it but cat d either way puts people off.

By any chance did it come from simpsons salvage, i went to view the same car for a mate a while back but got him a good deal on stolen recovered vr corrado instead.

make sure you use a decent primer as the cheaper ones tend to react easily so you end up doing double the work, also lechler and standox paints tend to be the better ones of the ones i've used. What colour is your car david as different primers can effect the colour finish. With rust patches best to go to bare metal and cover well with a good few layers of high build primer.

You can get the sensors from main dealer or gsf i think not that expensive really, i think the sensors are water temp ,oil temp and one other.

same as mine, try adjust the steering colunm down and see if full beam comes on then, mine does. Seems like the wiring has shorted somewhere.

What other cars have you got? I know what you mean about too many cars, i have three that are mine and its a right ballache when you need to drive the one that was parked in first. :mad: Feel free to come practice on my drive.. :lol:

when i tried the brocks on i had to get two wooden planks outs to get it out of the drive, pure desi style. Mod the drive mmmm never though of that, lol

Its not the width problem mate its the size because i want to fill the arches on the 16's the car needs to go even lower (also 40 profile tyres) which means it aint going to get up the drive without the front spoiler, so wish i had a flat drive...

They are smiths alloys mate in 17*7.5 et 38 so they can go right under the arches, i have some 16" brocks b1's but they are only 7.5" not the 9" so look a bit lost in the arches. Bally i'll post up the pics when the back end is dropped.

cant go much lower on the fronts unless the arch liners come out, the front spoiler almost comes off evertime i take it out of the drive. I should be rolling my arches tommorow then its time for some serious drop on the back.

saw this at vw festival in leeds the paint job was quality, respect for doing the work yourself

I haven't really done much to it just lowered it on coilovers,cleaned up the interior and replaced worn parts. I will probably get a vr bonnet for it and lower it more on the back so it sits more level with the front (bally style) The engine is standard 16v kr spec as far as i know which was rebuilt by the previous owner, it goes ok but i think it may need some stealth tinkering to get it running at it full potential. :D

not to my taste but if the guy did do the bodywork himself then he due some credit, looks like a decent finish overall, if he likes it then thats all that matters.

Get an alpine 4 channel that runs a decent rms.Unless you have people in the back all the time i would go for a component setu up up front door speaker for mids some dash tweets and then leave the 6*9's out and have a sub for the rear. Runn the sub on a class d mono amp and that should sound pretty sweet when you sat in the front of the car.

what about the metal peice that sits in the oe bumper wheres that supposed to go?

I have had the other fk coilovers (the one above that model) on some of my cars before and they are good for the money , the lower you go the stiffer the set up is. I think the ak's only go down 60 or 80mm but thats ok if you have 17's like yourself, hope that helps

WHAT, thats well pricey i would but some a decent socket set and set of spring clamps and do the rears yourself (best way to learn is to do it yourself), get the fronts done by the local a garage as is much easier fro them to do the fronts with an air gun due to the depth of the front strut nuts and the front camber will need checking too anyway. Doing it this this way you'll learn how to do the work yourself and you won't get stung as much by your local garage as they will be only doing half the work. :D I take it the shocks are adjustable on dampening?

Does anyone know or has changed the rear gearbox mount for a diesel one from the mk2 golf, i've heard that a few guys on edition 38 have done this on the mk2 golfs but will this work on a corrado 16v as the g'box is different? Thanks Bobby :D

as stevemac suggested it definitley sounds like a fueling problem i would suggest to try change the fuel pressure regulator on the rh side of the head.

my local halfords didn't have the locking nut remover so out came the socket and hammer and off they came, should makw the job a bit easier now. I might drop in some new top mounts as i'm sure they are on the way out, can i fit vr ones i have coilovers on my car its a h reg valver, thanks

i have mcguard on the corrado not the ones i wants toi remove thank god and they are very good highly recommended. I'll get a pic of the ones i need to take off, someone might know what make they are.

how difficult a job is this to do? Is it just a case of dropping the sump and popping in the new bearings or is difficult than that.