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PhatVR6

PhatVR6's 4wd 24v Corrado (new brakes)

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holy moly, you won't be able to shut the bonnet!

How much could that turbo push out?

I take it you will be doing the internals also, I've got a bad feeling you are giving Radford ideas!

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THANK YOU VERY MUCH, PHATVR6!!!

Last year I was looking for informations about Corrado Syncro "How to...".

Beside another "Corrado syncronizers" from net I found you and your photos which help me to become a "Corrado syncronizer" too.

I have need 3 months of swimming in Internet, another 3 months of searching and picking parts and components of syncros from Passats and Golfs and another 3 months of hard work. Finally... I DID IT !

I am one of the very few owners of VW Corrado G60 Syncro in Europe, and the only one in Romania of course.

It works great, even I have lost 1 second on acceleration. For fixing this lost Iwill change the Passat G60 Syncro gearbox with one of Golf III GTI.

Soon, I will complete this list: VW Corrado 16VG60 Syncro.

I have done some modifications too:

- a Bar-Tek Tuning kit: 70 mm pulley, 12 mm charger belt, bypass valve (after ISV), RS 3 Powerchip (they said I gained up to 190 HP).

- larger intercooler (the water-alcohol sprayer system is under construction),

- In.Pro. (angel eyes) frontlight,

- FK Automotive "Lexus" tailights,

- Weitec (KW) adjustable shock absorbers and adjustable coils (Hicon GT+Tx Series),

Next:

- I am starting (this week) to give Lambo Style Doors to my "Corraptor".

- I am waiting (next week) for a G-Lader RS rebuilding kit.

- an oil air-cooler (under construction)

- 16v head

Thanks again,

Eduard - Romania

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/ ... rowse/c87c

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yes, got 2 sets actually! wanna buy some?

 

i have the roll bars on it too, and the quicker steering rack, S3 hubs and cast wishbones. it's fantastic, a massive imprvement on the soggy 4 motion rubbish, impeccable road manners, great on tgrack too.

 

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Right, some progress at long last! after a year of sitting there doing nothing, whilst I got distracted by my Mk4, buying a bike (and crashing it) and taking on a 1.8T conversion on a mates mk2 (big mistake) my corrado has finally seen some action over the last week, and boy did it feel good to be working on it again!

 

For a recap, I took the R32 lump out and put it in my Mk4, then i decided I couldn't afford to keep the Corrado, the Mk4 AND the 3.2 lump, so I sold the engine to Coxylaad and went back to a 2.8 in the mk4. I managed to find another R32 lump thanks to S.G. on here (cheers again Scott!) so that has been sitting in the Corrado engine bay for a good few months (if nothing else it was somewhere out of the way to put it!!). But now I've decided I can't live with the 2.8 in the mk4, so the 3.2 is going in that, and something else is going in the Corrado as and when i can afford it.

 

Been through a few sets of wheels, gutted to have to let the LM's go (both sets) but I just couldn't justify having wheels worth £1400 so they got sold. Currently sat on 18" OZ F1 plus split rims, which i may put on the Mk4 now. Found another set in 17" so they'd be better suited for road use, got 9x17" OZ Superturismos off a SEAT touring car for track use.

 

The Porsceh brakes I had lined up are also going on the Mk4, i 'll find something better for the Corrado when I need them. Going to Mk4 hubs is opening up a lot more choice of brakes without the need for dodgy spacers on the carriers.

 

So, engine and box is out (again). I've stripped the VW Motorsport 6 speed down and it's sold. I've kept the Peloquin diff though, and I've bought a Quaife dog engagement box, out of the Ex-Dubsport Mk2 1.8T sycncro (now has 02M and haldex, hence why the box was for sale). VR6 Syncro drivetrain is also sold (but still on the car for now). I'll be going Haldex.

 

I've decided to sort the chassis and shell out first, and do engine later. I may even run the 2.8 24v in it for a while untill I fne tune the chassis. Right now, I need to order my suspension. after hitting a dead end with KW several times, I've decided they can stick it, so I'm going for LEDA's.

 

I decided a while ago that I wasn't happy at all with the Corrado suspension and steering, but I was massively impressed with the improvement that fitting TT/R32/S3 hubs, wishbones and steering rack had on my mk4, so I decided it had to go on the Corrado too! Not sure if the reack will be anywhere near fitting, but for now, the wishbones and hubs are on.

 

The advange of these isn't immediately apparent, but I will try my best to explain. When you lower a car, what happens? you throw out all the steering geometry that's what, and it doesn't drive or steer like it's meant to. So, What did VW do when they wanted the TT/S3/R32 to site 30mm lower than the Golf? They redesigned the hubs, wishbones and rack to account for the 30mm difference.

 

Basically, the wishbones are cast steel, and immensley strong. i once broke a heavily crashed R32, it'd taken and impact hard right on the nose, even cracking one of the wheels. Now, if that were a corrado, the wishbone would have bent, on this R32, the bottom ball joint mount on the hub carrier snapped off! the wishbone remained intact, they are strong...also, the bushes are solid rubber, with a large metal bush on them, much stiffer then the old VR6 ones. (which won't really matter, as I'll be changing the bushes anyway, maybe even to spherical bearings)

 

Now we look to the ball joint. I'll get some better pics later, but it's clear to see it's massive, half again as big as the VR6 one. Again, more strength.

 

Looking back at the wishbone, you can see that the ball joint end actually dips down. this had the added advantage of meaning the wishbone angle is kept flatter when the car is low. instead of pointing up at an awkward angle like most lowered Corrado's. this is further aided by the design of the hub carrier. There is a choice of 2 (well, 3, but we'll ignore the non GTI Mk4' stuff). The 4 motion/GTI stuff, and the R32.TT.S3 stuff. I've got the 4Mo one on the car at the moment, but I'l change it to the TT one as the wishbone is still poiniting up slightly.

 

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Note how the distance from the centre of the hub is greater on the TT one, it's no coincidence that it's around 30mmm....why? to push the wishbone back down flat again at the lower ride height. Also, the arm which the steering ataches to os different. On the GTI and VR6, the arm goes over the top of the carrier. what happens when you lower the car? the steering track rods point up at an angle, which insreases bump steer. Look at the TT one, it's the other way round, the track rod end goes in from the bottom, again, having the effect of holding the track rod level, to eradicate bump steer.

 

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Mk4 GTI/4mo on the left, TT/S3/R32 on the right.

 

I'll tackle the ARB later, it mounts up on the strut, not on the wishbone.

 

I tried R32 from struts, but they are too long, but at least 60mm, but seeing as I'm having custom made shocks anyway that doesn't matter I just need to get my measurements right.

 

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so you can see, it's dropped to a pretty decent height, but steering geometry remains fairly sensible.

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Wicked news Paul!

 

A mate of mine fitted a complete mk4 V5 suspention/hub setup to his V5 corrado. It worked no probs. He went back to the VR suspension for a completly unknown reason but I bet it will make the car feel much nicer to drive! I love my corrado but as soon as I jumped back into my mk4 tdi the difference was amazing - its a much much better drive to say the least!

 

Really looking forward to reading about this new lease of life for the corrado - keep the updates coming!

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Will you also get the caster benefits of using the MK4/TT/S3 stuff? Or is it all in the turret tower angle? Think the MK4 runs 7 deg caster, compared with the Rado's pathetic 3. Will probably need that MK4 rack to overcome the extra steering weight tho!

 

Should handle superbly. Nice to find a solution for the wishbones pointing too high.

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PhatVR6, is there any modifying needed to fit the TT hubs and wishbones? Can you just join up the corrado rack to this setup? And I'm guessing you'll have to use different struts, will the TT's fit ?

 

Great stuff by the way, keep us posted!

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D*mn - why didn't I look into this before I replaced the wishbones/ball-joints/rack/trackrods/rod ends/arb bushes/arb droplinks a few months ago...

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Kev, yes, the added castor is an advantage, even more so on mine as I have eccentric top mounts. (ever seen a Merc parked uo with the wheels turned? that's what we're talking about). And I have to run quite a lot of castor and camber anywayfor the strut bodies to clear the 9" wheels and still keep them inside the arches.

 

Wishbones are a direct fit, but they are no use on their own, as you'll then have nowhere to fit your VR6 ARB to, and you ball joints won't fit. If you want to fit the hubs too, you'll need special shortened mk4 fitment front shocks, and your track ronds ends will be too small too. So it's not really a bolt on job as quite a lot of stuff needs to be changed. not to mentin the top mounts. If you don't have the eccentric mounts, and try to mount the strut right in the centre of the turret you'd end up with positive camber.

 

My problem now will be if the TT rack is that much wider than the corrado one. The pivots for the tie rods should be about the same distance apart ast the wisbone pivots, if it's much wider, as the wheel goes up in the arch then all sorts of strange bump steer efects will happen. so it's touch and go as to whether the mk stlye rack is a goer or not. I sincerely hope so, as the S3 one I fitted to my mk4 feels bloody great.

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definitely worth it on the 4 mo, the quicker rack is bvery noticable, and if you're lowering it, which I know you will be, then you need the hubs and wishbones. got a spare set of wishbones if you're after some, know where there's a complete audi 3.2 TT setup going, including front and rear ARB's.

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PhatVR6, does the TT hubs with the shortened struts link up with the standard rack with bigger ends? And how would you connect the arb?

Are you saying that you would need to get some eccentric top mounts for this setup?

Im really interested on how you get on! Im going to start work on my suspension and brakes next year and this sounds like stuff good to me ! :)

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haven't tried the standard rack on it yet as the hub I've fitted currently has a burnt out TRE stuck in it so i can't see if the taper is the same or not, most likely not, but you can get around that with rose joints instead of TRE's (track rod ends)

 

it's looking like needing eccentric top mounts, when I put the centre of the strut in the middle of the turret the camber was positive and I had to swing the top of the strut inboard to get any sort of camber.

 

Need to have a bit more of a play aournd with it to work out what's fully possibly and what's interchangeable, and when I have I'll start a new thread for those mods to keep it out of my build up thread.

 

also, I've just noticed the wheels sits quite forwards int he arch, going to have to take some more measurements and refit the bumper too. fitting the TT hubs with the bigger distacne between the hub and ball joint should bring the wheel back a little (as the struts slope backwards).

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