Radio aerial

[SteveM16v 0]

I can't seem to get my radio working. Its as if I haven't got the aerial plugged in. That said I've removed the head unit with the power on and then pulled the aerial plug out of the unit and completely lost all reception (I can get radio 2 normally).

 

I thought the aerial itself might be broken so removed it and tried it with a coat hanger - no difference????

 

Thanks

 

 

Edit: Fixed spelling of aerial, cos it's not an Ariel ;)

[chrishill 0]

Do a search for 'ariel' as theres some answers to simular questions in other threads. IIRC it could well be something to do with the ariel base (assuming you removed the pointy bit and stuck a coathanger in the hole - not in the back of the headunit)

[cheesy 0]

Replace the base unit on roof, the amplifier is most probably screwed. i changed mine for a new one and works sweet as a nut

[Dancing Fish 0]

It'll be the signal amplifier in the base unit. Its probably got wet, corroded, and makes your signal worse rather than better.

 

Take the base unit off (pull down headlining carefully then undo retaining bolt and unclip wires). Then ease round inside of base unit with knife to pull plastic cone away from metal base - this takes time. Then get red of most of the foam that is inside, cut the signal wire that goes into the corroded amp - which looks like a circuitboard - solder to metal button at top inside of cone, but back together and bobs your mothers brother.

 

note - you can just rip the circuitboard off, but this means the cone is less stable. i simply disconnected, bypassed, filled with polyfiller and put back on.

 

its great having radio - was going through my cd collection like nobodies business.

 

DF.

 

If you need more info PM me.

[SteveM16v 0]

Thanks DF - only just read your post but I'll give it a go!

[CazzaVR 0]

This sounds like a good solution! New amp from VW is over £50, and the one from GSF has different plugs (why sell an item for the C that isn't even compatible?!! Grrr...). Bought one off Ebay the other day and my FM reception is quite a bit better, but there is still no AM/MW. Gonna get myself a soldering iron and try this method out.

 

Is the signal wire the thin one? What does the metal button inside the cone look like- is it the bit that the aeriel screws into the other side of?

 

Cheers Dancing Fish!

[Gman 0]

Any Pics would be good.

 

Tks

G

[Dancing Fish 0]

I did make pics, but accidentally deleted the files cos im a tw*t.

Sorry!

 

The signal wire you can test for with a voltmeter, or if you dont have one, just hook it up to your stereo again and try both wires. One is the amp wire which you dont want anymore. Simply put a wire coathanger on em and see which one gets best reception.

 

The button is the other side of the bit you screw the aerial into yes! Once you have taken the amp circuitboard out of the cone, it's the obvious bit of metal at the top in the inside of the cone.

 

The whole process took me about 3 hours, but that included taking the headliner down. My tip would be to take your time since if you rush it you split things for the sake of 1hr and it pisses you off.

 

Oh, and when you replace the cone on top of the car, throw some grease around the hole and the base of the unit to waterproof it.

 

DF.

[kongo127 0]

I´ve removed the aerial amplifier due to bad FM reception and no AM.

As it´s a bit pricey...

Just connected the RF cable directly to the antena terminal.

The reception is much more better now!

I can even listen to FM/AM in parking garages! LOL

Worth a try and save some pences!

[kerrinmay 0]

Sounds like this is probably my problem. Though don't fancy fiddling with it all just now, especially if I have to pull down part of the head lining.

 

Will just have to put up with cra**y radio reception for now and CD's until I can find time to do this.

[Henny 0]

you can buy a plug in aerial amplifier from Maplins for under £10 which will help with your AM/FM reception once you've bypassed the original amp... ;) 8)

[coolrado 0]

a mate of mine who has been fitting stereos for about 10 years has told me that the in built amplifier doesnt really improve fm reception much and is more for am reception.

ripping out the booster was the first thing i did when i bought the c and you could actually squeese the foam that encased the circuit and a fair bit of water came out .

my fm reception is excellent now and i can even get a signal in places that my mate with his new golf cannot

[Big-ted 0]

Right, I'm in the middle of doing this.

 

I have two wires coming out the base of my ariel. A thick, black, co-ax cable, and a thin, black wire. I assume the former is the signal wire and the latter is the amplifier power supply.

 

So I need to solder the signal wire directly to the button in the tip of the base unit, but the signal wire being co-ax, it has two terminals, inner and outer. Which one do I need to solder to the button :?: :!:

 

My car is currently outside with a hole in the roof as a black cloud loows overhead. Immediate help much apreciated!!

[Big-ted 0]

OK, I've established it's the inner one, as I suspected. Now, any idea how to get all the expanding foam off?

[Big-ted 0]

Ah, you're all too slow! Problem solved. I love this forum... :D

 

Some extra hints I learnt along the way:

 

1) It helps to dip the aerial base in hot water before you try to seperate the aluminium plate from the rubber housing, as this makes the housing more supple and therefore less likely to split.

2)I removed the foam using a combination of a mini blow-torch :twisted: and wire brush.

[Riley 0]

can anyone explain to me how the ariel is wired at the stereo end?

 

i have a spare black wire in the cars loom,where should it go?

 

also theres a white wire that runs into the ariel wire,is this what the black should go with?

 

cheers,neil.

[CazzaVR 0]

I've tried doing this (twice!!), and the wire just refuses to be soldered to the 'button' in the top of the aerial base. The solder absolutely won't stick to the button. I've made sure it's dry etc. Doing my head in- thought it would be easy!

 

Any suggestions?

[Henny 0]

you need a REALLY hot soldering iron (25W +) and it helps if you roughen up the "button" a little with some emery cloth to give the solder something to key into... 8)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

The metal you're trying to solder to might be wrong, i.e. zinc coated, brass, etc etc

 

Speaking of irons....I've got an electronic one that heats up to 500 deg C and glows red, LOL! I soldered an eyelet to 0 guage cable no problem, LOL! £160 worth though, ouch!

[Henny 0]

I just use my mini blow torch for that kinda thing... 1500 deg C is sure as hell gonna melt the solder! :lol:

[Riley 0]

can anyone explain to me how the ariel is wired at the stereo end?

 

i have a spare black wire in the cars loom,where should it go?

 

also theres a white wire that runs into the ariel wire,is this what the black should go with?

 

cheers,neil.

 

can anyone shed any light? :)

[CazzaVR 0]

kevhaywire, Henny, cheers guys- will try 'roughing it up' a bit first, then have another crack. It's a pain having to take the aerial off once, let alone 4-5 times! :mad:

[Dancing Fish 0]

I seem to remember the black wire is the aerial amp power wire. If your amp in the aerial base is not corroded as per the previous part of this post, it might help your signal. You have to attach it to the poweramp out of your head unit. If you dont have one, just tape it off.

 

To be honest though i wouldnt be that bothered. If your signal is rubbish it is because the amp is corroded, in which case proceed as per the above instructions. If it works fine, just tape it off. As mentioned, it is arguable whether it actually does anything anyway even when in full working order.

[ZippyVR6 0]

It'll be the signal amplifier in the base unit. Its probably got wet, corroded, and makes your signal worse rather than better.

 

Take the base unit off (pull down headlining carefully then undo retaining bolt and unclip wires). Then ease round inside of base unit with knife to pull plastic cone away from metal base - this takes time. Then get red of most of the foam that is inside, cut the signal wire that goes into the corroded amp - which looks like a circuitboard - solder to metal button at top inside of cone, but back together and bobs your mothers brother.

 

note - you can just rip the circuitboard off, but this means the cone is less stable. i simply disconnected, bypassed, filled with polyfiller and put back on.

 

its great having radio - was going through my cd collection like nobodies business.

 

DF.

 

If you need more info PM me.

 

Thanks for that walkthrough. I can now get loadsa stations and rds text comes up.

 

It was realy easy to do and took about an hour this morning. Few Pics to follow.

 

If anyone has pants Radio reception but was worried about messing with the headlining, give it a shot. You only need to remove 1 bit of trim. the bit can see when you open the boot. the lining flexes out of the way just enough to not need removing.

 

and its FREE :D

[dr_mat 0]

Slightly OT, but can you buy replacement bee-sting aerials (not the crappy chrome/aluminium/sequined/glow-in-the-dark/blue-led shite, the real VW thing), without the base? I hear that VW will only sell you the aerial with the booster amp for like £70 or something...

 

The VR looks like it went under a really really low bridge...