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Kevin Bacon

The Forced Induction VR6 thread

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I'm not sure about the spacer to be honest. At 10psi, it's not strictly necessary so long as the intercooling is good :D

 

I would imagine a spacer will be incorporated because no one sticks to 10psi for long. Once you get addicted the boost drug, you always want more :D

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if the price and power are right that is a good price for 150 bhp especialy fitted

 

guess theyed do a none fitted price as well wouldnt they, as if/when i go forced induction i'd rather do it myself just so i can learn a little more

 

also a little ?

how come more turbo engines dont run separate oil and a cooler from the engine oil like supercharges do, is there a reason?

as wouldnt it keep oil temps down a little and in turn engine temps down a little?

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The amount of extra heat a turbo contributes to oil temp is very small.

 

It's advantageous for the turbo to share the engine's oil pressure, filtration and warm up, ditto the coolant water if applicable.

 

The rotrex has it's own own supply because it's a special traction fluid.

 

The Vortechs take oil from the engine like turbo's do.

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The amount of extra heat a turbo contributes to oil temp is very small.

 

It's advantageous for the turbo to share the engine's oil pressure, filtration and warm up, ditto the coolant water if applicable.

 

The rotrex has it's own own supply because it's a special traction fluid.

 

The Vortechs take oil from the engine like turbo's do.

 

Kev i was thinking of a separate cooler for the water on the turbo, what you think

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my fuel pump sounds blocked or on its way out guys, what fuel pumps do you guys have/recommend?? i think i remember Marcus saying it was an uprated one, do i need a better than standard one... :shrug:

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Kev i was thinking of a separate cooler for the water on the turbo, what you think

 

Wouldn't bother mate. Next time you take it for a thrash, lift the bonnet and see the turbo back housing glowing red. You'll notice the area around the oil and water unions isn't glowing, so the engine coolant's doing it's job 8)

 

my fuel pump sounds blocked or on its way out guys, what fuel pumps do you guys have/recommend?? i think i remember Marcus saying it was an uprated one, do i need a better than standard one... :shrug:

 

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?

 

I use a Walbro GSS340 in tank pump. It just slots in place of the stock pump.

 

External pump not necessary unless pushing for 500hp.

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thanks for the reply kev!!

 

its the external pump under the drivers door which is making the noise, and i havent changed the fuel pump yet (i have only done 1500 miles though i reckon :lol:) maybe i should get that changed and then the external fuel pump while im at it

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i dont think any1 has any idea yet, but maybe after this weekend there might be more of an idea and also what sort of power the kit will produce

 

Don't forget this is a basic kit, would say about 300bhp.

 

From the rumour mill at the Stealth Dyno day yesterday, I picked up a fitted price of around £3K and it will be 350hp in stage 1 spec. Obviously that's not been officially confirmed yet, but that sounds like a great price for an extra 150hp to me!

 

If this is true,hello turbo :clap:

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When I was up talking to the guys last week I was told some details .. 11psi ish, 300-350bhp ish (on paper), custom made exhaust, lambda probe mounted high up in the exhaust manifold for a fast response, heat exchanger down the front of the car, air box over in the standard VR6 location (so it always gets cool air), and the only engine modification is a head spacer. They'll be using the standard ECU with larger injectors - the MFA mpg readout will be screwed up, of course, but it should start, idle and run from cold like a standard car.

 

Stage two would require pistons/rods and probably gearbox/driveshaft work too. The same turbo should be able to be used for either application. Expected power output 400+

 

I don't think any of these details are secret, so I thought it would be ok to share them here (having spent an hour talking to the guys!).

 

It certainly looks like a thoroughly thought-out project, and if it all works to spec it's a pretty astounding prospect and hopefully the recession won't prevent there being a clutch of newly-turbod VR6s kicking around ..

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As long as the motor up to scratch, chains , clutch, engine mounts , fuel pump ,etc

 

It don't stop by just bolting a Turbo on , there lots of hidden costs you don't even think about.

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As long as the motor up to scratch, chains , clutch, engine mounts , fuel pump ,etc

 

It don't stop by just bolting a Turbo on , there lots of hidden costs you don't even think about.

 

 

Seen it run on the rollers already made good power for std engine & sounded really good - will be even better when finished

Shaun is right tho turbo will find all the weak points so save up

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Shaun is right tho turbo will find all the weak points so save up

 

he sure is, it will be never ending really, always something to do usually... if its not engine related its something like BRAKES!!!!! :wink:

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its the external pump under the drivers door which is making the noise, and i havent changed the fuel pump yet (i have only done 1500 miles though i reckon :lol:) maybe i should get that changed and then the external fuel pump while im at it

 

Oh right, so you have an external pump then. Maybe Marcus was going for big power, but it's certainly not needed for the power you're running mate. Could either be that's on it's way out (what make / model is it?) or the intank one is on it's way out.

 

They'll be using the standard ECU with larger injectors - the MFA mpg readout will be screwed up, of course, but it should start, idle and run from cold like a standard car.

 

You can recalibrate the MFA to injector size.

 

it will be never ending really, always something to do usually... if its not engine related its something like BRAKES!!!!! :wink:

 

There is absolutely no way I would have SC'd / turboed my VR without doing the brakes and suspension first. The big APs have averted disaster quite a few times now. Worth their weight in gold :D

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Oh right, so you have an external pump then. Maybe Marcus was going for big power, but it's certainly not needed for the power you're running mate. Could either be that's on it's way out (what make / model is it?) or the intank one is on it's way out.

 

yeah it has an external one, havent had a good look at it tbh as the weather has been shite!! will let you know when i get a chance... you saying the internal one is on the way out could be it actually, its making that noise where its struggling and fizzy if that makes sense??

 

There is absolutely no way I would have SC'd / turboed my VR without doing the brakes and suspension first. The big APs have averted disaster quite a few times now. Worth their weight in gold :D

 

they are a must!! and like you say save your car/life... i have had 1 near miss, the rest of the time i have had loads of brakes left :lol: 8)

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Exactly the reason why I'm sorting out some Brembo 4 pots before even thinking about going to turbo land. Have you guys uprated the rear brakes as a 'must do' as well then? Guess you can never have too much brakeage! Haha.

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Exactly the reason why I'm sorting out some Brembo 4 pots before even thinking about going to turbo land. Have you guys uprated the rear brakes as a 'must do' as well then? Guess you can never have too much brakeage! Haha.

 

think the majority of us, including me, have only got the fronts upgraded, and to be fair its more than enough!!!

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The amount of extra heat a turbo contributes to oil temp is very small.

 

It's advantageous for the turbo to share the engine's oil pressure, filtration and warm up, ditto the coolant water if applicable.

 

The rotrex has it's own own supply because it's a special traction fluid.

 

The Vortechs take oil from the engine like turbo's do.

 

thanks for explaining kev

 

also while your on about brakes, do most of you lot run 17" alloys for the big brake upgrades, thing is i deffo want to keep on 16s so does any1 know a good set of brakes that will still fit under 16" wheels? (soz this was put in here and not the drivetrain section)

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Can get 312's under most sets of 16" alloys I believe :)

 

joking!! i wish i could use 16's. mine are 323 bremobs though, im sure NO 16's go over them :(

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yeah it has an external one, havent had a good look at it tbh as the weather has been ****!! will let you know when i get a chance... you saying the internal one is on the way out could be it actually, its making that noise where its struggling and fizzy if that makes sense??

 

External pumps do make a faint sort of "fizzing" noise (good description!) but if they suddenly start making an uncharacteristic and loud whine, then either the intank pump is on it's way out and not able to "keep up" with the external pump's demands, or the external pump itself is just tired, or pumping against a restriction, such as a clogged fuel filter.

 

I'm guessing you'll either have a Walbro 255lh or a Bosch 044 under there. If the latter, I'll be surprised if it's knackered already as they are very reliable.

 

they are a must!! and like you say save your car/life... i have had 1 near miss, the rest of the time i have had loads of brakes left :lol: 8)

 

Always build overkill. You never know when you might bomb down a country road one day and see a traveller across both lanes trying to reverse his caravan into a field entrance :roll:

That was f'in close, I can tell you!! Thank god for big brakes and thank god for ABS :salute:

 

You have to be careful with folk behind you aswell. On Sunday some tool in his Mondeo locked up his tyres behind me because I stopped rather quicker than he was expecting - brought on by some gimboid pulling out of a side road without looking, right in front of me :bad-words: I braced myself for the inevitable rear ender (it seems people are determined to destroy my car at the moment), but thankfully his car ran out of momentum in the nick of time!! I just shook my head at him in my rear view in a "serves you feckin right for tailgating me" kind of way and drove on. I hate other road users. I wish I could chop them all in half with a roof mounted 50 calibre sometimes....

 

also while your on about brakes, do most of you lot run 17" alloys for the big brake upgrades, thing is i deffo want to keep on 16s so does any1 know a good set of brakes that will still fit under 16" wheels?

 

Fit the biggest discs and calipers you can afford and squeeze in there. You can get 330mm discs under a 16" Comp MO, ET20. That will cause some serious arch fouling though. I've been through all this and in the end it was actually better to run decent, light weight 17s. Everything is better than 16s. Turn-in, handling, braking, the lot.

Get the wrong 17s though, and you'll hate it.

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