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Kevin Bacon

The Forced Induction VR6 thread

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He sold the car Philmo.....

 

Please somebody sort this thread out for when you click last unread post, its 26 pages behind and i have read them all.

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and seeing this had kinda got me thinking of a V1 (i do miss that noise)

 

3.jpg

 

 

need to get the car back first though

 

A mate of mine has a HPA short runner that he is fitting to his car with a Garrett GT3582R

 

He has a MK2 golf syncro and an R32 engine gearbox box and rear diff

 

R32trialfit.jpg

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The HPA doesn't fit in Corrados, nor does any 24V SRI in fact..... without chopping up the slam panel and moving the rad that is!

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As you have said though its the only way to get stuff in " the hands on get stuck in" approach...... :lol:

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and seeing this had kinda got me thinking of a V1 (i do miss that noise)

 

3.jpg

 

 

need to get the car back first though

 

That's a c-cooler & a half. Whose is it?

 

& is that a Bora bay?

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Looks like one VF engineering make. I saw an Audi A3 3.2 24V with that stuff fitted at NS Racing and it all looked factory!

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My stock cams were level with a 9:1 spacer, but I have heard of plenty of other people with the same issue as you with spacers!! I haven't tried the 263s with a spacer yet. I guess it depends on the thickness / brand of spacer possibly?

 

Have you got a telescopic dentist type mirror? With the motor set to TDC on 1, poke the mirror down at the intemediate shaft pulley with a torch and check the alignment arrow is pointing at the marker on the engine.

 

If it is and you're 100% happy with the timing, ce'st la vie mate, not much you can do about it other than fit (very) expensive vernier cam sprockets. it'll drive OK.

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I was at The Phirm recently when my 263s were put into the head and the chains out on, having had an 8:1 spacer plate fitted. The effect is slightly more pronounced than you see in that photo of yours. However, because it is out of alignment by less than a tooth on the cam sprockets, it is just something that will be mapped around when its all set up. AFAIK the only way to get around it is to fit low comp/turbo pistons.

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My 9:1 was a little out, but not quite that much? Worth a double check of the timing, as already suggest by 'the wire'.

 

And I like that equal length short runner.... very nice 8)

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I checked and double checked, my chains are fairly new so maybe when they stretch a bit the cams might level out a bit. This might also be the reason people seem to be seeing different offsets. My head spacer is 9:1, just for clarification.

 

On another note I'm just waiting for the rotrex traction oil until blast off :clap:

 

Unfortunately it's on back order, whilst trying to get hold of it a bit quicker I happened upon finding out that it is Santotrac traction oil (not sure of grade though) and it is quite special, apparently crystallises under pressure and therefore greatly increases frictional forces. Also their factory has just burnt down so I couldn't find out their UK distributors and prices as its 70quid a litre bottled up by rotrex. Hope that's not why it's on back order. :scratch:

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Hi guys,

 

After munching my way through this ive got a pretty comprehensive shopping list for my VRT but I was wondering what turbo and subsequent oil feeds you would recommend and from who?

Im looking for 350-400ps ideally.

 

Thanks

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I was wondering what turbo and subsequent oil feeds you would recommend and from who?

Im looking for 350-400ps ideally.

 

If you use a Ball Bearing turbo, you'll need a restrictor (on the turbo) such as this one - http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merch ... e=ATP-OIL1

 

You can make you're own oil line without special tools using these parts - http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/200-seri ... s-11-c.asp

 

As for what turbo, it's a grunt delivery preference thing. T04e, T04s,T3/T4/, T60-1, GT3071R, GT3076R, GT3582R all work well.

My favourite is the GT3582R. It fits the VR6's character perfectly.

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seeing this had kinda got me thinking of a V1 (i do miss that noise)

:cuckoo:

 

Get a Turbo on it :lol:

 

You mean stick a donk on it.

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Wow, its been quite on here recently!!!

 

Anyway, what are peoples opinions on this!

 

I'm running the Forge diverter valve with my rotrex and just wondering what spring others have used in it?

 

I have found that the yellow spring alone is not strong enough as it's recirculating on tick over, surely it shouldn't do this!

So I've disconnected the vacuum line to the DV and am letting it reference atmospheric pressure, this works OK for the time being and gives me the added safety measure of limiting boost as I have no intercooling at the moment :shock:

 

Is this likely to cause any overrun back pressure problems????

 

Also what temperature is anyone else's Rotrex running at? mine probable ran close to 70 when it was recirculating on tick over (god knows why), however now its probably 50-60 degC??????? I expected them to produce next to no heat, but hence the oil cooler!

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rotrex and other superchargers develop boost or very little of boost when on/ idle part load when there is no use for boost, it gets vented to prevent pressure build up so this is normal,only on 3/4 to full throtle does the reserc valve shut and full boost is allowed.

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rotrex and other superchargers develop boost or very little of boost when on/ idle part load when there is no use for boost, it gets vented to prevent pressure build up so this is normal,only on 3/4 to full throtle does the reserc valve shut and full boost is allowed.

 

Yeah that makes sense, however I don't think allowing this recirculation is doing my inlet temps any good as there is a noticeable difference in boost pipework temperature when I stop the recirculation! Must be due to re compressing the air!

 

So do you recon I should live with the higher temps or try a slightly stronger spring in the DV to retain the pressure until the revs are a touch higher?

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you should really get some kind of cooling on there it makes quite a difference, i helped a friend fit aquamist to his V9 charger and it does not loose power now after long hot runs.

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