STEERING RACK REMOVAL - RAIN STOPS PLAY

[Garry 0]

I'm changing my steering rack on the corrado as the old one has sprung a leak.

 

I've got the new rack assembled and waiting to go on but I need a few pointers on the best way to get the old one out.

 

So far I have done the following...

 

1. Disconnected the tie rods

2. Supported the engine and box.

3. Disconnected the rear mounts from the sub frame

4. Supported the subframe on a trolly jack and removed the chassis bolts.

 

The problem I am having is that I am finding it difficult to get to the steering column to remove the bolts and pipes from the steering box.

 

Do I need to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the rack to the sub frame first and then drop the sub frame to gain access??

 

Has anyone changed a rack before?? Advice needed

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah you need to drop the rear subframe bolts completely and suspend it on the front ones by a couple of threads as if you were doing a front Eibach ARB.

 

Now you can swing the subframe forward, or down depending on how you look at it, and gain access to the necessary. The pinch bolt on the engine side UJ is quite difficult to get to aswell, but it's doable. Takes a lot of fiddling with different approach angles etc.

 

I'd replace the 4 rack clamp bolts and nuts also as they're knurled on the shank just below the head to dig into the subframe, should the worst happen and the nuts shake loose, you won't lose the rack.

 

Stick a wider MK2 Golf rack clamp on too and corresponding powerflex poly bush which will sharpen the steering a bit if you haven't done that already.

[Garry 0]

Cheers Kev - I thought as much.

 

I'll remove those rack botls first, that should give me the extra room I need to access the steering column UJ & pipe work.

 

Hopfully the rain will stop tomorrow and I can resume play.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah it's a fiddle of a job. I helped Vince at Stealth swap out mine on the ramps. We just removed the complete rack with tie rods as a job lot but we defo needed to hang the subframe down. Fitted new tie rods to the new rack in a vice to do em up good and tight and then slung the whole lot back on. The fiddliest bit of the whole job was actually the UJ pinch bolt! At least the UJ can only go on one way, so there's no danger of throwing the steering wheel alignment out of synch. Getting the PAS lines back in their holders was a chore also for some reason.

 

Good luck!

[A20 LEE 0]

Questions, questions

 

Is the rack body aluminium,

Are racks re-buildable,

How much do they cost

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah I'm pretty sure from memory it's cast alloy, well, the VR6 ZF racks are anyway, not sure about Garry's.

 

Why the alloy question? Thinking of polishing it? :lol:

 

Racks are rebuildable but refurbers seldom replace the rack, the pinion, bearings and all the seals as the rack itself is bomb proof. The pinion can wear though. They usually just replace the seals as the first thing that usually breaks on the PAS racks is the seals, causing leaks.

 

When buying a refurb, enquire if it's fully rebuilt. VW do racks for about £500, part number denoted with an X meaning eXchange, but not necessarily refurbished. I think the way they play is they take one from stock if there is stock, if not it's rebuilt. So you might get a refurb, you might get a new one!

 

I got my brand spanker, non refurbished rack from ebay for £150. Any plus axle MK3 rack will do, so long as it's ZF. It's the same rack across 8V/16V/VR6 MK3 and VR6 Corrado.

 

GSF do a refurb for around the £250 mark I think. I don't know what quality it is though.

 

Vague steering isn't always down to a worn rack, but if turning one direction proves harder than the other....the rack is defo shagged.

[Geo 0]

I've done this job several times to my mate's 1.8 16v over the past few weeks, (long story for reason see here)and I reckon the best way to do it, particularly if you don't have access to a ramp is just to take down the subframe complete with rack, wishbones etc attached. In addition to the list you have above you also need to split the balljoints. Take the bolt out of the steering column shaft with the rack in the car. Don't take the pipes off at the rack take them off at the pump and reservoir and take the whole lot down. Then it's dead easy to pull it out from under the car, swap out the racks and lift it back into place.

[Yandards 0]

After helping 2cc with his rack on his valver a couple of weeks ago I can recommend removing the entire subframe too, if you split it at the balljoints it wont shag your suspension geometry either. Just split the tie rods from the hubs and the PAS pipes and that should be it.

 

The pinch bolt that hold the knuckle in place is a bit of a swine to get at as the sodding rubber boot insists on droping down all the time. The other advantage with taking the entire subframe out is that is gives you something to stnad on if you are just swapping out the track control arms!

 

'How to' in progress for this job just need to get around to the write up.

[Garry 0]

Job now done :D

 

Here's the basic sequence for a G60 as I recall it, please correct me on the fixing sizes as this is entirely from memory...

 

NOTE... Follow Bentley manual for recommended torque settings. Use new fixings through out wherever possible. Use thread lock on everything except tie rod ends.

 

1. Loosen front front wheel nuts (slightly) with car still on the ground.

 

2. Raise the car and support the chassis with axel stands (Position them under the chassis rails) just behind sub frame / EIB and remove front wheels. Make sure hand brake is on and the rear wheels have been wedged to stop the car rolling off the stands.

 

3. Support the engine and box, either from above or below depending on what type of equipment you have to do this. (I used a pair of ramps, stradled with a thick piece of wood, then carefully packed it out out under the sump & g/box)

 

4. Turn the car's steering fully to the left and then using a ball joint extractor, break the tie rod ends free from the hub carriers.

 

5. With a trolly jack, support the middle portion of the front subframe.

 

6. Disconnect the car's battery and then remove lambda probe bracket from rear engine mount. (10mm nut on rear engine mount)

 

7. Remove 3 off 13mm bolts from rear engine mount (Drivers side).

 

8. Remove 1 off bolt from gear box mount (19mm I think). Once this is done, remember that your choosen method of engine support is the only thing seperating the lump from the floor so choose well.

 

9. Remove the 6 subframe fixings, 4x 20mm an 2x 17mm (again correct me if wrong but you get the picture)

 

10. Remove the 4x 13mm bolts securing the steering rack to the sub frame. (Again the fixing sizes are from memory)

 

11. Slowly lower the trolly jack, just enough to get your hand on to loosen the 13mm steering column UJ/clinch nut. (Bastard of a job)

 

12. Now lower the sub frame fully (as far as the front suspension allows) to expose the power steering pump hoses. (You may have to remove a plastic clip from the back of the steering rack body if it's still intact)

 

13. Position a drip tray under the rack and remove one of the hose's allowing all of the power steering fluid to drain.

 

14. Remove the remaining hose.

 

15. Remove the steering rack from the car.

 

16. Fit new tie rod ends to the new steering rack ensuring that the L/H/S is set in accordance with the Bentley manual for your tire size. (383mm +/-1mm for a G60, different again for a VR but again please check)

 

17. Refit all components in the reverse order with the exception of the tie rod ends.

 

18. Fill the power steering resevoir to the maximum mark (with recommended fluid)

 

19. Re-connect the lambda probe skt and then the car battery. Start the engine and feed in the power steering fluid as necessary, slowly turning the steering from lock to lock. (The pump will sound like it is about to die but this noise will start to reduce as fluid is pumped around the system)

 

20. Check that all hose couplings etc are free from leaks.

 

21. Once satisfied that no leaks are present, switch off the engine.

 

22. Re-position steering so that you are on left full lock and then re fit the tie rod ends to the hub carriers.

 

23. Re-fit wheels and lower car.

 

23. Take car to a garage/tire fitters ASAP and get the tracking properly re-set.

 

Thats about it - please comment if you feel I have missed anything and lets get the how to thread locked down. 8)

 

Gaz

[_leon_ 0]

Superb Garry :) How long did this job take roughly?

[Walesy 0]

Moved

[24V Renshaw 0]

I reckon this will become the Corrado Steering rack forum soon! :)

 

Jay

[Graham_E 0]

Vague steering isn't always down to a worn rack, but if turning one direction proves harder than the other....the rack is defo shagged.

 

 

Ahhhh CRAP! :( thats another thing to add to the list then!

[_leon_ 0]

i ended up doing pretty much exactly what is listed above - seems the only way to get access is to lower the subframe as far as you more or less go. only thing i did differently is drain the pas fluid from the pump (on without the metal end) so i could control where it emptied better. heard it can strip paint!

[_leon_ 0]

I reckon this will become the Corrado Steering rack forum soon! :)

 

Jay

 

cant believe just how many rack issues are popping up now - crazy

[Garry 0]

The cars are all becoming of that age now I suppose