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Stan 24v

Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

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I want to ditch the two after cat lambda sensors for 2 reasons. The holes for them are drilled at a slight angle outwards so they stick out from the top of the cats and rub on the heat shield on the side of the tunnel. The twin cats are a tight fit under the C and there's no way to mount the exhaust without one of sensors fouling the body and causing vibration (short of filling and re-drilling/threading new holes). Secondly I want to fit a de-cat pipe so have to delete and remove these sensors anyway.

 

I'm getting the re-flash from this company: http://www.vr6specialist.com

Along with the various deletes it should also release another 30 or so horses (with the de-cat pipe) :)

 

The 24v will fit on the standard C mounts with no modifications. I've used a VF front mount though as there's not much room for movement at the front even with a slim-line fan setup. I also don't fancy a large dent in my bonnet for the same reason. You will have to *modify* the support strut under the front left of the bonnet still though for it to shut properly. The Corrado front mount bracket also needs modifying as the casting on the 12v block that secures the long starter motor bolt to the block as well as the bracket is missing on the 24v block. There is another hole in the casting about an inch back and up from where this missing hole should be that also lines up with a correctly sized (m12 or 14 I think), threaded hole in the gearbox casting. If you do not extend the front mount bracket back so you can secure it through this other hole in the block the torque of the engine trying to twist under load will be mainly acting through the aluminium gearbox casing, which probably isn't a good idea :) See my project Dutch 24v thread in the members gallery for pics :)

 

Dutch

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You will have to *modify* the support strut under the front left of the bonnet still though for it to shut properly.

 

Mine isnt modified at all, shuts fine too :wink:

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Hmmm, maybe Andy cut your front engine mount down and lowered it that way? You defo. need to chop something for the bonnet to shut and as I have a nice new VF front mount found it easier to chop the strut instead :wink:

 

Dutch

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I want to ditch the two after cat lambda sensors for 2 reasons. The holes for them are drilled at a slight angle outwards so they stick out from the top of the cats and rub on the heat shield on the side of the tunnel. The twin cats are a tight fit under the C and there's no way to mount the exhaust without one of sensors fouling the body and causing vibration (short of filling and re-drilling/threading new holes). Secondly I want to fit a de-cat pipe so have to delete and remove these sensors anyway.

Dutch

Ive the std twin cats,fits fine,no rubbing,bumping or vibration,also connects fine to my magnex exhaust.

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You will have to *modify* the support strut under the front left of the bonnet still though for it to shut properly.

 

Mine isnt modified at all, shuts fine too :wink:

Mine also isnt modded?

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You will have to *modify* the support strut under the front left of the bonnet still though for it to shut properly.

 

Mine isnt modified at all, shuts fine too :wink:

Mine also isnt modded?[/quote:9e969]

 

 

Did you forget to take the bricks you were using as temporary engine mounts out Paul? ;)

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Lol Will, I did wonder where those *bricks* went too :)

 

OK, so it would seem you do not need to modify anything then :)

 

I did notice the engine sat a little higher on the VF mount so maybe that's why I had to do some chopping :?

 

Dutch

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I want to ditch the two after cat lambda sensors for 2 reasons. The holes for them are drilled at a slight angle outwards so they stick out from the top of the cats and rub on the heat shield on the side of the tunnel. The twin cats are a tight fit under the C and there's no way to mount the exhaust without one of sensors fouling the body and causing vibration (short of filling and re-drilling/threading new holes). Secondly I want to fit a de-cat pipe so have to delete and remove these sensors anyway.

 

I'm getting the re-flash from this company: http://www.vr6specialist.com

Along with the various deletes it should also release another 30 or so horses (with the de-cat pipe) :)

 

The 24v will fit on the standard C mounts with no modifications. I've used a VF front mount though as there's not much room for movement at the front even with a slim-line fan setup. I also don't fancy a large dent in my bonnet for the same reason. You will have to *modify* the support strut under the front left of the bonnet still though for it to shut properly. The Corrado front mount bracket also needs modifying as the casting on the 12v block that secures the long starter motor bolt to the block as well as the bracket is missing on the 24v block. There is another hole in the casting about an inch back and up from where this missing hole should be that also lines up with a correctly sized (m12 or 14 I think), threaded hole in the gearbox casting. If you do not extend the front mount bracket back so you can secure it through this other hole in the block the torque of the engine trying to twist under load will be mainly acting through the aluminium gearbox casing, which probably isn't a good idea :) See my project Dutch 24v thread in the members gallery for pics :)

 

Dutch

 

Nice one, will be interested to see how you get on after it's been flashed etc.....when are you getting it done?

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I have the 24v ECU. Oil temp is not a feature on the 4mo, I know cos I have one of those too. Not sure about the MPG, but Im suare thats part of the ECU too.

 

The clocks in mine are Corrado clocks, but he did have to strip the Golf clocks in order to bypass the immobiliser.

 

Stan, Who did the work on your ECU? Did you have the keys, transonder unit ect. with the engine? If so I would love to find out who did the work? I have just finished all the mechanical work on installing an Audi 3.2 into my C. Only problem was I didnt realy think it through when it came to the electrical side. IE. I have to make a choice on a standalone system now as I do not have the Transponder unit or the keys from the Audi.

 

If anyone else is in the same situation I can recommend someone to contact in the UK. They are currently building me an ECU for an extremely reasonable price. please see http://www.mtechautomotive.co.uk/mainindex.html for more info.

 

Cheers,

Craig.

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You can have the immobiliser code deleted from the 24v ECU for +- 200 notes, thus removing the need for the key and transponder. Custom Code offer this service and I believe Stan has this remap.

 

Dutch

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Thank you very much. Any Ideas how long it usually takes them to delete the programme? As I need to send my ECU from Dubai and need it back before the 28th September. Due to this being the VW Audi's official club launch.

 

Cheers for the info.

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Guess chipping it or swapping the mkiv abs module in seem the only options.

 

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/em_k3.html ;) :lol:

 

 

If you used one of those do you still get the use of the instrument led guages etc? I'm really toying with the R32 engine option but can't bring myself to start messing with the electrics behind the dash, I wan't a 'mainly corrado' car if you know what I mean......or else I'll get beaten for modifying a storm :lol: ....

 

Im thinking of going R32 myself, from what i hear, Storm Developments have developed a one-off Emerald ECU which allows you to use your existing clocks keys ect... and if you have ABS they can use that as traction control!

 

Yeah, I have a Storm and thats the only reason i havent done this sooner! :lol:

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I already use my existing clocks and keys mate. Also, the C is fitted with traction control as standard (no really) its just that its pants :lol:

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Also, the C is fitted with traction control as standard (no really) its just that its pants :lol:

 

Really.... Geez it must be pants!

 

Who on here has already done an R32 conversion? I would like to pick thier brains a bit......

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Also, the C is fitted with traction control as standard (no really) its just that its pants :lol:

 

Really.... Geez it must be pants!

 

Who on here has already done an R32 conversion? I would like to pick thier brains a bit......

 

Nobody as far as Im aware, but I think there is one in the pipeline. The 2.8 is the same though mate, just not as big/powerful.

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****URGENT****PLEASE****REPLY****URGENT****PLEASE****REPLY****URGENT****PLEASE****REPLY****URGENT****PLEASE****REP

LY****URGENT****PLEASE****REPLY****URGENT****PLEASE****REPLY****URGENT****PLEASE****REPLY****URGENT****PLEASE****REPLY****URGENT****PLEASE****REPLY****URGENT****PLEASE****REPLY****URGENT****PLEASE****REPLY****URGENT****PLEASE***

 

 

I have just read coxylaad's post:

 

dont recall having all these problems and the engine has been in a running state in my car for the past 5 months. Granted the exhaust thing I didnt know about as I had to use the 4motion exhaust, and you dont have to weld in a bulk head as you are not fitting the full mk4 loom.

 

I am just about to undertake a vr6 24v swap into my mk3 golf vr6 syncro and need to know a few things like:

 

1) How much of the loom can i get away with using.

2) Can i use my standard mk3 vr6 ecu

3) Will the same pedals from vr6 4motion but from a different car work with my engine

4) If i fit a 6 speed box from the vr6 4motion will i need different drivshafts and which gearbox mounting bracket

5) I want to use the standard haldex contol unit which comes on top of the haldex diff, what sensors or wires from engine, abs bits ect will i have to hook up when doing loom in order for it to work. is it even worth the hassle or should i just buy the haldex controll unit instead

 

ANYONE OUT THERE GOT ANY ANSWERS PLEASE REPLY :?

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1) i have read the vr6 24v engine will drop on my engine mounts but i need to do something to the front one, what exactly needs to be done, keeping in mind its going into a golf vr6 with the front subframe mount area having a donut shape on top

2) i have the entire 4motion loom with the fuse box, will i need to fit the fuse box and then mate up the wiring that runs to the rear of my car.

3) also i have the clocks which i want to use, will the speedo work because the gearbox sensor thingy which reads the speed might be different to the 24v one

 

I appreciate all the info

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The 24v ecu needs to be used.

You can keep standard clocks, but you have to strip the 4mo clocks for the immobiliser.

The front engine mount on the Corrado needs moving sideways, not sure about the Golf.

The 24v fusebox does need to be used, well it was on mine anyway.

The Speedo works fine on the C as the revs and speed are all pretty much the same, dont forget the engine is just a newer VR.

Accelerator pedal from the 4mo needs fitting as its DBW.

 

Not sure about fitting the 4mo box, but I would assume it wouldnt be too bad as youve already got a Haldex box.

 

Not sure about the rest, try PM'ing Coxylaad, dutchvr6, bigpantsbaby

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oh dear??? i seem to have read the full 30 pages three times in the last 2 days :) i need to make my mind up where i'm going next with my car. so who lives closest to birmingham with an R32 corrado thats running :)

 

karl

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oh dear??? i seem to have read the full 30 pages three times in the last 2 days :) i need to make my mind up where i'm going next with my car. so who lives closest to birmingham with an R32 corrado thats running :)

 

karl

 

Come up on the weekend if you like mate :wink:

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oh dear??? i seem to have read the full 30 pages three times in the last 2 days :) i need to make my mind up where i'm going next with my car. so who lives closest to birmingham with an R32 corrado thats running :)

 

karl

You can buy mine for decent bucks

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