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Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

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according to the club gti guide rev signal for the 1.8t's is on pin 81, but anyone doing this should cross reference with a wiring diagram specifically for there engine but im pretty sure they are the same as 24v's ,

 

T10 Orange

pin 1 - grey/white to ecu T121/43 (229) ( diagnostics K diag port)

pin 2 - green/red to ecu T121/81 (Tach signal from ecu to G1 pin 12)

pin 6 - blue/white ecu T121/54 to speed signal in dash wiring (Hall speed sensor on clocks W pin 1)

 

in regards to needle jumping , mine doesn't do it badly , its not 100% stable but I can deffo live with it ,

Edited by VW_OwneR_85

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Well I don't have pin 81 at all and it seems that we can use pin 81 for mpg.

 

As far as I'm aware, now please someone correct me if I'm wrong, for rev counter it is pin 37, for vehicle speed sensor we reuse corrado stuff?

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Well I don't have pin 81 at all and it seems that we can use pin 81 for mpg.

 

As far as I'm aware, now please someone correct me if I'm wrong, for rev counter it is pin 37, for vehicle speed sensor we reuse corrado stuff?

 

that's interesting, i'll have a butchers and check pin 81 with my BDE wiring diagram later on to confirm but pin 81 is what there using and everything else for the 1.8t's has been right but it could be a mild difference between 1.8t/2.8/3.2 ? either that or im posting up duff info,

 

i just googled VW pin 37 and then it came to someone wanting a mk4 r32 pin out

 

Speed signal T121/54 -blue/white wire

Tacho signal T121/37 - green/brown

 

so i guess im posting up duff info :( soorayyy

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I doubt anyone that has done research is posting duff stuff mate, its a learning curve and a massive one at that! I look back at my notes when I first started looking at the diagrams and think "was I taking medication, that is soo simple to understand but I didn't get it".

 

On my engine (2004 Audi A3 3.2 BDB engine) I don't have pin T121/37 or 54 but I was under the impression that I needed to add these. I do tend to overlook things when I get in a certain frame of mind and when I was looking at the Corrado diagram the other day I noticed the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) which I believe is the plug on top of the gearbox. It has a power feed taken from the fusebox, an earth and a feed to the clocks, I then thought, why do I need to add wire 54 in when I have a Corrado speed sensor that works perfectly fine on its own, which is what I plan to do.

 

As for pin 81, I have no idea how MPG is worked out but could it be something to do with the tacho signal anyway, ie. the higher the reading the less MPG you are getting... in a simplistic form. Obviously I could be talking a big bag of crap but could it be that pin 81 and 37 are doing a similar job, hence why people use either?

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MFA MPG for 100 miles was 33.5MPG

Real MPG For 255 miles, calculated by fuel usage was 25.75MPG

so it's roughly 30% out

So for real MPG multiply MFA MPG by 0.77 or divide by 1.3

I might contact Stealth and ask if they've got a solution

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On my engine (2004 Audi A3 3.2 BDB engine) I don't have pin T121/37 or 54 but I was under the impression that I needed to add these. I do tend to overlook things when I get in a certain frame of mind and when I was looking at the Corrado diagram the other day I noticed the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) which I believe is the plug on top of the gearbox. It has a power feed taken from the fusebox, an earth and a feed to the clocks, I then thought, why do I need to add wire 54 in when I have a Corrado speed sensor that works perfectly fine on its own, which is what I plan to do.

 

yep its the speedo sensor on gearbox, you don't need to add the sensor itself but you need to add a vss wire to the ecu so the ecu knows when you are moving or stationary, I belive that fusebox plug W-1 is the vss output from the clocks the input to the clocks would from the wire off the gearbox vss itself also im pretty sure I remember someone just spliced straight off of the sensor wire to ecu with no problems,

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had a butchers at the wiring diagram for my BDE and cant really make out what T121/81 does from it, {tach signal for 1.8t's} , I can confirm that the 1.8t's T121/81 has the same colour combination green/red and goes to the same plug T10/2 so must be the same for mine, now T121/37 its a green/brown and goes to J225 {climatronic control unit} so again not sure but it does match the colour combinations given for tach signal of that random search , seems weird why a tach signal would be used with climate control?? am I missing something ?

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Not sure where you're looking (VW_OWNER_85 insert real name here) but I've just had a look at the BDE wiring diagram and it says it goes to T10/9 which goes to the "control unit with display in dash panel insert" T32/11. Says its a green/brown wire.

 

It looks like T121/81 goes to T10/2 but seems to stop there, perhaps as a result of switching over to canbus and keeping non canbus wiring? Or making 1 loom for multiple uses?

Edited by swiftkid

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Not sure where you're looking, I've just had a look at the BDE wiring diagram and it says it goes to T10/9 which goes to the "control unit with display in dash panel insert" T32/11. Says its a green/brown wire.

 

It looks like T121/81 goes to T10/2 but seems to stop there, perhaps as a result of switching over to canbus and keeping non canbus wiring? Or making 1 loom for multiple uses?

 

, pin 37 deffo green/brown goes to T10/9 then straight down to T17a4 {17pin connector behind center dash panel} then straight to J255 which on mine is climatronic control unit , {there probably the same thing its just your version of wiring diagram is missing the word "climatronic" ?

 

really not sure on why pin 81 stops dead at the plug, its like if the diagrams missing something..

Edited by VW_OwneR_85

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I think we are looking at 2 different wiring diagrams, the BDE diagram I have is from May 2001 for a 2.8 engine (from Rubjonnys private collection of awesome here). It shows it going to T32/11 - J285 Control unit with display in dash panel insert with I presume is the MFA screen in the middle of the clocks.

 

As for pin 81, I presume that because VW will try make the least amount of variations of looms that they can that on some engines, wires will be there but unused, hence why at the back of the corrado fusebox there are usually a few wires that are not connected.

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Real MPG For 255 miles, calculated by fuel usage was 25.75MPG

 

That is exactly what my R32's MFA 2 average is for the past 1370 miles. Possibly something up with yours if a 1500kg 3.2 lard bucket is returning the same mpg!

 

Have you got any numbers in your long term fuel trim measuring blocks? I think it's block 32 in VCDS iirc.

 

Mine are ~ 2%, so I know the MAF is good.

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Could have something to do with my heavey right foot,

My trims are within %2

That is exactly what my R32's MFA 2 average is for the past 1370 miles. Possibly something up with yours if a 1500kg 3.2 lard bucket is returning the same mpg!

 

Have you got any numbers in your long term fuel trim measuring blocks? I think it's block 32 in VCDS iirc.

 

Mine are ~ 2%, so I know the MAF is good.

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Just wondering if anyone has researched into the various DBW pedals? I have the floor mounted pedal that came with my engine but I'd prefer a hanging one, I understand you can't just mix and match them but are there any that are compatible? I'd really prefer to use the hanging one than the floor mounted one.

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Both pedals are a faff to install, but I prefer the bulkhead mounted one as well. I made a bracket and kind of fudged it in there, but as said already, it's very tight getting the correct brake pedal > throttle spacing and also clearing the back of the fusebox.

 

The floor mounted one is a lot easier to install but needs some irreversible trimming of carpet and plastic trims.

 

MK5 ECUs (BDB & BUB) need a floor mounted pedal but MK4 (BFH) can use either pedal.

 

You can save a tonne of money by not using R pedals. They are just standard pedals with metal covers.

 

Be careful to keep the pedal loom well away from the brake and clutch pedals. If you sever or chafe through any of those wires, you'll be stranded!

Edited by Kevin Bacon

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I have the audi 3.2 floor mounted pedal, it just looks like a standard one anyway as its not an R32 engine. So I guess I'm stuck with floor mounted then :( I might take a trip down to the scrapyard for some pedals to try before I cut a hole in my floor!

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I've got one from a AUM 1.8T 1J2721503C and another soon from a 1.9 AJM TDi

 

_12_zps010b9bad.jpg

Edited by Dox

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My BHE Audi TT came with a hanging pedal, fits great but you have to take the pedal bracket off to fit it to it.6yqa4yme.jpg

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Can you use a R32 bottom end with a 2.8 24 v head my big ends have died

 

If you reuse the head I'd remove the sprockets off the cams and remove the VVT housing behind them, there's a filter in the housing that blocks with pieces of white metal off the big ends

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Swiftkid - yep, you are stuck with a floor mounted I'm afraid, unless you get the ECU Kip's using as I believe that motor is the same MK4/MK5 mongrel as your BDB A3 engine. Nice bit of fusebox inverting there Kip :)

You don't need to cut a hole in the floor, just the carpet and maybe a little bit of the trim under the bonnet handle. It's neat enough and tbh, are you ever going to put a 12V back in?

 

I think Matty has an AUE which doesn't have VVT. It just has a simple plunger that pulls the cams together (advancing) for EGR purposes when cold.

 

Shouldn't be any fragments up there as the filter traps any fragments that originate from the block.

 

In answer to the question and if it is an AUE, you'll want to check for valve clearances and also R32s use smaller head bolts. BDE heads go onto R32 blocks OK, but then the AUE is very different to the BDE, let alone the R32.

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MPG info

314 miles

57 litres

= 25mpg

mfa (pin 81 connected to the dials) showed 31mpg over the same miles

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