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Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

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James totaly agree with you for the finish etc i dont think half of us on here can achieve that finish as you have, myself inclusive

 

but thats the finish you choose so you can have the little things like the pump priming when you open the door personaly i think is OTT as Ive never not known a car not to start as the pump didnt prime for long enough and off course youll have the full Vag-com but Idont think the VAg com on the VR is that bad itself.

 

I look like at this way, The one reason someone would put this engine in to their cars if they wanted a new more power version of what they have already.

 

So if that means you can still use your original VR6 ECU loom etc (some work will be needed wires to what ever sensors etc but not alot) get the ECU fully mapped to your engine, so youll get the best power out of it and will work as well as before I dont see the point of changing all the loom etc I think its to much.

 

I just look at it this way does it as simple as possible (without making more work than needed) but do it properly.

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haway man for christ sake its not that bad.

Dink how many engine swaps have you done in your time? just curious.

 

I dont recall having all these problems and the engine has been in a running state in my car for the past 5 months. Granted the exhaust thing I didnt know about as I had to use the 4motion exhaust, and you dont have to weld in a bulk head as you are not fitting the full mk4 loom.

 

So sit back, take a deep breath, and chill :D

 

p.s. Phat went to extensive lengths to get his r32 running on vr management and concluded it wasnt possible as the cam timing sensors and pickups are totally different between the 2 engines.

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ah Vince didnt not mention that

 

can you just change the timing on the ECU if your reprograming it ?

 

alos were the VR6 cam sensors? i thought it was just crank pick up?

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In fairness, I've never done an engine swap, but neither has xbones.

 

I'd imagine it probably is a fairly straight-forward process if you've done a couple of engine swaps before, but for those of us needing to check the with 'righty-tighty' before picking up a spanner, I suspect it's quite a bit more than straight forward :lol:

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Hmmm a wuss-out clause provided by DutchVR6

 

LOL :)

 

I'm sure you'll be OK mate - and you have a wealth of experience in this forum to help you out.

 

tbh I wasn't aware of the mentioned *little* issues that have to be sorted either and it has kind of put me of a little bit (I AM a mechnical wuss :) )

 

How much do you reckon you'll be selling your stealth-rebuilt VR for when it comes to it? :wink:

 

Dutch

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Yeah I don't think you'll have a problem shifting it :)

 

tbh I think I'm just going to rebuild the VR. I already have a new head etc. for a straight swap, so only the chains to worry about really as I'm pretty sure my block is OK (touching a large piece of wood, oo-err...)

 

Still, if another low mileage 24v turns up at the same price I may well change my mind again :?

 

Dutch

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As lots of people seem to be going down this path and are/will be asking similar questions I've stickied this and updated the title ;)

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sorry fellas, been busy all week with work and crap.

 

First of all, massive repect to Jay, but I may point out that we have tackled the conversion with different aims and thus different results. Jay have tried to make his car as "mk4" as possible, whereas mine was kept as "corrado" as possible. neither is right or wrong, bith work, both look factory. it's up to you how you decide you want it to look/work and what extra work you want to do.

 

Right, a breif run down.

 

Running on the 12v......

 

don't bother. I butchered a 24v loom trying to do this. got everything connected up even the throttle body, then had to give up, as the cam sensors are totally incompatible. the Vr6 uses it as a hall sender, just a single pulse per revolution of the cam. the 24V on the other hand has VVT, so the ecu needs to know where the cams are, so it has a shaped disc, called a rotary encoder on the end of the sprocket instead. I guess you COULD alter it and add the magnet off the 12v, but it's a bit dodgy to fudge something inside the engine. it'll run without one, but 20bhp down at least.

 

mounting the engine

as Jay says really. all the VR6 stuff bolts right up to it. all you have to do is fit a small collar between the gerabox and mount where the top bolt goes. forget the plastic top cover, it does nothing and only hits the bonnet.

 

 

oil cooler.

it was in the way of the engine mount bracket. I wasn't bothered about making it fit, I just binned it and fitteed a mocal setup which cleared.

 

hoses.

I used VR6 everthing.

at first I modifed the hoses, using a mix and match and cut down selection of hoses to get it all to work like a 24v. but at the end of the day, it's still a vr6, so you can bin all the metal pipes and stuff that route the expansion tank to the left hand side and just fit it all as it would be in a vr6, just cut down one hose, from the back of the head to the heater to fit.

 

exhaust

as mentioned, nightmare.

use the 24v headers and cut the downpipe off below the flexi joints. make you're own from there on, try to mate it to a vr6 cat if you can (but don't foget the extra lambda probes, it needs all 4!!

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wiring

so many ways to go about this. but basically you need

 

24v engine loom.

matching ECU, clocks, keys (all from the same car)

transponder pickup

drive by wire pedal

loom from ecu to fuseboard (to the coloured connectors).

 

obviously, fitting the whole loom fromt he 24v is easiest, if you have it all that is.

 

in mine, I spent a while sat down with the diagrams working out how to power it all up off the corrado fusebard, until my mate, who's a wiring GOD/GURU told me it's eaiser to just use the mk4 relay plate.

 

Basically he just took over and did the job for me (which was nice!), so I now don'tuse the corrado fuel pump relay or ECM (ECU) relay. I have the R32 relay plate in the car, and all there was to connect up was a few power supplies (to replace the fusebox on the battery), a signal to the fuel pump, one from the ignition, and that was about it!

 

I have the diagrams in PDF if anyone wants a copy.

 

DBW

yes, drive by waire

wiring, easy, just plug the loom from the pedal to the blue plug in the ecu loom. done.

fitting, I took the pedal box out of the corrado. binned the accelerator, and welded a bracket to the right hand side of the pedal box to accept the pedal. it took a few goes to get the postion of it right, and I had to make my own pedal stop, but it felt good int he car, and you couldn't notice anything had been alreted when using it (except for the increase in acceleration of course!)

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Just one thing, you still need to mod the bonnet with the 24v even without the cover. The 24v inlet manifold is very different to the R32 one, so it will hit.

 

Jay

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Out of interest, how long would a conversion take, man hours wise? If it was just a standard swap, not with all the great detail as above.

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well, it's taken me from !0:30am to 5:30pm yesterday, and 10am until 9pm today to remove the R32 engine and box from my mk4, fit a lcuthc and flywheel to the 2.8, swap the gearbox off the 3.2 to the 2.8, and refit the 2.8 into the car. and cahnge the sump over.

 

So basically, a long weekend should sort an engine swap.

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8) Cool, in that case I should defo have it back before crimbo.

 

Ive given him the go ahead, so 24v HERE WE COME!!!!! :shock: 8)

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Andy Walker at PSI Tuning in Stoke. He used to be the head mechanic at Awesome before he decided to set up his own company.

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