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Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

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hey,

does anybody know /have ETKA that would be able to tell me if the wiring with plugs both side of a mk5 r32 accelerator pedal can be bought from VW?

the guy i got my engine of threw in the pedal but he has chopped the wire going into the loom! :cuckoo:

 

also i think he has broken the plastic mounting clips! any1 know the part number for the floor mounted bracket the pedal attaches to? thanks very much for all help

atif

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hey,

does anybody know /have ETKA that would be able to tell me if the wiring with plugs both side of a mk5 r32 accelerator pedal can be bought from VW?

the guy i got my engine of threw in the pedal but he has chopped the wire going into the loom! :cuckoo:

 

also i think he has broken the plastic mounting clips! any1 know the part number for the floor mounted bracket the pedal attaches to? thanks very much for all help

atif

 

I can tell you the part number for both when I get home tonight if you like. Otherwise try vagcat, thats where I found the part number out for the bracket you mentioned

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thanks mate, i should be able to find the bracket number, just that the guy at vw couldn't find the wiring...

so your r32 lump is in and running, well done mate! cant wait to be in the same position! have u had a first drive in it yet? thanks

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thanks mate, i should be able to find the bracket number, just that the guy at vw couldn't find the wiring...

so your r32 lump is in and running, well done mate! cant wait to be in the same position! have u had a first drive in it yet? thanks

 

well it is in but not complete enough to go for a drive yet. But sounds pretty good without the exhaust fitted :norty:

 

Bracket is 1K2 721 187 C

Pedal plug 1K0 973 706

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thanks so much for that mate! aaahh dont worry about it, a few teething issues will be sorted sharpish i assume, ya car looks a good un mate.

quick question...is that the part number for the plug going into the pedal or the side that goes into the loom? loom side am after ya see, cheers.

by the way another quick question but ill pm that. thanks

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thanks so much for that mate! aaahh dont worry about it, a few teething issues will be sorted sharpish i assume, ya car looks a good un mate.

quick question...is that the part number for the plug going into the pedal or the side that goes into the loom? loom side am after ya see, cheers.

by the way another quick question but ill pm that. thanks

 

oh, sorry the part number I gave was for the plug that fits onto the pedal. The loom wiring is part of the fusebox side off the donor car. These arent cheap or easy to get a hold of. Can't you just find another car of similar spec being scrapped and cut off a length of loom you need to fix the missing part?

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so is there anyone here that has actually converted there own loom, as ive just read all 68 pages and not person has talked in detail about how to mod the loom

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Found out I needed:

 

Tensioner PN 021 145 299D

aux bracket PN 021 260 087D

 

hope this helps others

 

 

are these the correct parts for a mk5 r32 aswell?

 

cheers mort

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Tensioner PN 021 145 299D

aux bracket PN 021 260 087D

are they audi part numbers?

 

cheers mort

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Tensioner PN 021 145 299D

aux bracket PN 021 260 087D

are they audi part numbers?

 

cheers mort

 

I can't remember mort, but have a look through my posts on my conversion and you should come across the part numbers. I ordered all, if not most of my parts from TPS so didn't matter if they were audi or vw part numbers

 

Any one know if the oil warning light on the dash should function as normal or not? Mine constantly flashes and i dont know if it's a duff engine or bad wiring? :shrug:

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well thats what i thought but when i rang the guy said the numbers didnt come up might try somewhere else.

 

mort

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Oil warning light should function as normal.

 

From what I remember you need both the high and low pressure switchs mounted to the 24v oil filter/cooler.

 

I remember having the same problem, but solved it by adding both switches. I think you have to locate them in the right position too though otherwise the light and buzzer will still go off.

 

Dutch

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Oh my,

 

Over the past couple of days I've been reading every post in this thread, and re-reading bits I didn't understand. (so quite a lot of it) :cuckoo:

 

I'm just looking into and doing some research into a 24v conversion. Hopeing that it'll answer some questions that I have and all I have to show for it is a head ache. :(

 

When I decide to do it I think I'm going to have to read the thread again........and ask loads of questions. So be warned.. :eek:

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does anyone know where i can find the engine no. on the 24v block

 

or do u know which code 2.8 engines came the coilpacks sat on the plugs, not on the side of the head

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there is also a sticker with a bar code on it on the head - [strike:wsvsusto]THINK it's the tensioner pulley end of the head but uncertain[/strike:wsvsusto]; that'll tell you the engine number/type :)

 

edit - it's on the clutch/chains end of the head on the upper chain casing; check out the pics at the bottom of this page

 

thats certainly the case for a mk5 r32 lump anyway!

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Changing the subject a tad,I finally have my corrado back on the road after 1.5 yrs of tinkering with this mk4 r32 engine/gearbox set up.

Im using all vf mounts & its harsh as hell,which ones should I remover to std vw ones? any ideas?

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Changing the subject a tad,I finally have my corrado back on the road after 1.5 yrs of tinkering with this mk4 r32 engine/gearbox set up.

Im using all vf mounts & its harsh as hell,which ones should I remover to std vw ones? any ideas?

 

get hold of a standard vag rear mount, mk3 diesel gearbox mount and keep the vf front mount. i THINK that's generally accepted as one of the better setups for oem comfort etc.

surprised you're getting major vibrations - i had mounts which were rock hard in mine (not through choice!) and i would only get a little vibration etc and that was only when sat still with the engine idling. the r32 is so much smoother than the vr it seemed not to be so much of an issue in mine...

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Changed the rear mount & it seems a lot better,only problem I have now is fueling my c.

My car is a 1990 model with the flat boot floor.

Im using the r32 clocks & to get the clocks to work Ive had to use a 1.8t golf fuel pump & sender(scrapped all original fuel pump set up) so now the fuel gauge works fine,the problem being surging on fast corners & starting the car the r32 fuel pump relay only primes pump for 1~2 seconds,Could do with non return valve as I think the fuel is draining back a tad to the fuel tank.

Anyone have any ideas?

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hi all, i have my 12v engine out and side by side with my r32 lump....what exactly have you swapped over from the vr to the r32.......i have so far the thermostat housing and coolant pipes aswell as the flywheel/clutch......what else needs swapping too? thanks

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Changed the rear mount & it seems a lot better,only problem I have now is fueling my c.

My car is a 1990 model with the flat boot floor.

Im using the r32 clocks & to get the clocks to work Ive had to use a 1.8t golf fuel pump & sender(scrapped all original fuel pump set up) so now the fuel gauge works fine,the problem being surging on fast corners & starting the car the r32 fuel pump relay only primes pump for 1~2 seconds,Could do with non return valve as I think the fuel is draining back a tad to the fuel tank.

Anyone have any ideas?

that sounds a bit strange - which lump are you using? the mk4 had the fpr built into the fuel rail and obviously a mk5 requires an aftermarket fpr setup.

what you've said suggests the fuel pump isn't man enough for the job and or/you're running the car too low on fuel...

if you've had to run a different pump for whatever reasons and it's not working well enough then i would defo be looking at a different setup, possibly an additional in-line pump (e.g. bosch jobbie - can't remember the part number now - they're popular with the evo moddifying boys though) and a non-return valve if it's draining back over time. whatever fpr you're running it SHOULD sort the pressure in the rail out for you - you just need to keep that pressure up sufficiently before the fpr sorts it out for the rail.

for reference, iirc the pressure should be circa 3bar in the rail...

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hi all, i have my 12v engine out and side by side with my r32 lump....what exactly have you swapped over from the vr to the r32.......i have so far the thermostat housing and coolant pipes aswell as the flywheel/clutch......what else needs swapping too? thanks

you'll also need the 12v pas pump with a 24v pulley and a 24v pas/alternator bracket

if you have the mk4 r32 lump then you can use the pulley and the bracket that come with the engine, if you have the mk5 then you'll need to get some elsewhere

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Changed the rear mount & it seems a lot better,only problem I have now is fueling my c.

My car is a 1990 model with the flat boot floor.

Im using the r32 clocks & to get the clocks to work Ive had to use a 1.8t golf fuel pump & sender(scrapped all original fuel pump set up) so now the fuel gauge works fine,the problem being surging on fast corners & starting the car the r32 fuel pump relay only primes pump for 1~2 seconds,Could do with non return valve as I think the fuel is draining back a tad to the fuel tank.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

edit - double post

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