Fanjita 1 Posted July 9, 2012 Yeah I would agree with you there mate, I've read nowhere that fuel pressure is a problem on Mk4 gear, it is likely as you say. ---------- Post added at 5:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:50 PM ---------- My MK5 loom should also be ready this week, fingers crossed, and then I will be able contribute a bit more to this thread :D They got your ecu there too kev? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 9, 2012 I'm just waiting for Mark to finish the loom (bench test today/tomorrow apparently then its back in the post!) very exciting stuff. My MK5 loom should also be ready this week, fingers crossed, and then I will be able contribute a bit more to this thread :D Damn , seems like this is the week for modified engine looms ;) , apparentley mine is finnaly going to be finished this week too! although mines for the 2.8 BDE not 3.2 , one day though ;) realy cant wait to start stripping the front of my corrado down , just got to finish tidying up an audi A3 , so i recon next week should be conversion week for me! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted July 9, 2012 :dance:so many 24v's being created! Give me a nudge for the picture in a weeks time guys as Im away for a short time and may forget. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 9, 2012 Yeah got everything Sam, BUB/BDB ecu, full loom, MK1 TT MAF (the big one), lambdas, knockers, the lot. It's all at Stealth at the mo whilst Vince does his wiring magic. As you can see in my gallery, I popped the twin lambda bosses onto the DP tonight, so nearly there! As far as I know, you will only get a cam error if you use MK4 loom / ECU on a very late MK5 engine. The one with the grey cam sensors. It's really confusing / annoying because there are earlier MK5 engines (BDB/BUB) that use the same cam sensors as the MK4. This engine SHOULD be fine with a MK4 ECU and loom, but don't quote me :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 10, 2012 Hmm that's strange Kev, I was told by a couple of sources, if its a BUB engine then whatever ECU/loom was made for a BUB engine will fit it. I'll have a look at your thread Kev, I might be doing the manifold myself now so will need some pointers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 10, 2012 Possibly mate. All I know is: grey cam sensors = big problems! :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1990 0 Posted July 10, 2012 I'm going to paint mine black. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 10, 2012 Ugh I think mine are grey too...The engine appears to be dated 02/06 though? That's nowhere near the last of the BUB engines is it? thought they were around 07-08? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 11, 2012 Anyone got a dubpower mani recently? Does it still need the rear engine mount modifying to fit properly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 12, 2012 AFAIK the manifold hasn't been changed to suit Corrados, so yep, rear mount needs cutting down. I would sooner cut and shut the manifold to fit properly than do that personally. It just doesn't sit well with me. It's like digging the foundations of one side of the house away to accomodate a guttering pipe. Just modify the pipe instead :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1990 0 Posted July 12, 2012 I had to chop my mount to make the engine sit straight, its pretty basic inside it, a metal tube with a lump of rubber over the top. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 12, 2012 Cheers guys, Kev once again your point is clear and very logical, I will follow this option too mate. Love the analogy! I'll test fit it then get a motor factors I know to add a small piece in. From what I've heard dub power are very helpful so I'm sure they will honour any buyer guarantee but will check first. We will see! Labmdas next *gulp* Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 12, 2012 I had to chop my mount to make the engine sit straight, its pretty basic inside it, a metal tube with a lump of rubber over the top. Yeah but yours is in a MK2, so you have to do it for bonnet clearance reasons I thought? We don't with Corrado VR6s. I'm not saying it's the worst kind of Saxo mod ever. It's just that VW position the mounts carefully to give the correct driveshaft alignment and the angle of the engine can also influence torque steer (flywheel effect). If it were me, I would lower all 3 mounts 10-15mm, not just one of them.... but that's just me, I'm a bit anal :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1990 0 Posted July 13, 2012 It's just that VW position the mounts carefully to give the correct driveshaft alignment and the angle of the engine can also influence torque steer (flywheel effect). Did they do that when they fitted the R32 into the Corrado? ;) Looking at mine when I sat the engine in (mk3 golf subframe in mk2 so maybe different to the corrado) i'd guess the mk4 chassis mount was 10-15mm lower overall than the VR6 bolt on rear mount. If I put a long level accross the front of my inlet manifold its straight with the wings. Even though its straight it wont start, spark but no fuel DOH!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 13, 2012 (edited) Aha, but the R32 block's engine mount threads are in the same place as the 12V's, so clearly they tested the engine in cars older than the MK4 ;) The VR engines have never sat 'straight' anyway, they've always been on the **** across the engine bay :D But yeah, it's a moot point if yours won't start :D Have you checked you're getting 12V at the injector (across the live pin and chassis ground) with the ignition on? Normally on the VRs, if it's not happy with the crank signal you don't get fuel or spark. The fact it's giving you sparks is a good sign in a way. Edited July 13, 2012 by Kevin Bacon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1990 0 Posted July 13, 2012 I only got as far as checking the wires under the cover in the boot. With the key turned I got 1.5v to each pump and when the engine was turning over I was getting 9.5v. I didn't hear the fuel pump prime but didn't get as far as pulling a fuel hose off. I'll have another go this saturday but I was happy there was a spark at least The battery has been sat for a year. Theres another one off a diesel clio which is small enough to fit but much stronger than my 063, i'll try with that as well because I think I read the fuel pump needs 12v to run (I may have imagined that though). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 13, 2012 I've seen this happen once before, and it was on a member's R32 Corrado where he had inadvertantly swapped the supply and return lines over on the fuel pump :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 15, 2012 She's in! manifold fits fine too, I did end up shaving the mount kev, but Pete talked me round to it. Doing so has given me more clearance at the front too? Looks like I can reuse my old rad fans too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 16, 2012 Cool! So shaving just the rear mount (a VT one I assume?) 10mm then makes the dubpower 6 branch line up in the tunnel properly? I'll have to come up and see how it all sits when it's done! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 16, 2012 Yeah exactly, I've shaved the original mount because it was a bit rusty and old so I'm not all that bothered about cutting it! Was pretty easy just need to chop the rubber by 15mm (hacksaw and dremel) then hacksaw 15mm off the central shaft, drill a bit more for the bolt and re tap it. Took me about an hour in all. Now obviously I've not witnessed how it sits with a full sized mount, but mine seems to sit perfectly! It's flush with the sides, plenty of clearance all around and everything seems to fit. I'm quite chuffed with the rad fans that should save me shelling out on a fan when the old one worked fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Swompy 0 Posted July 16, 2012 Just a random question for future reference. If I was to upgrade my engine again to a R32, would be a simple swap as it is all ready modified to hold the 2.8 24v lump? I guess they would as they both fit in a mk4 but knowing vw nothing is straight forward. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 16, 2012 Yeah exactly, I've shaved the original mount because it was a bit rusty and old so I'm not all that bothered about cutting it! Was pretty easy just need to chop the rubber by 15mm (hacksaw and dremel) then hacksaw 15mm off the central shaft, drill a bit more for the bolt and re tap it. Took me about an hour in all. Now obviously I've not witnessed how it sits with a full sized mount, but mine seems to sit perfectly! It's flush with the sides, plenty of clearance all around and everything seems to fit. I'm quite chuffed with the rad fans that should save me shelling out on a fan when the old one worked fine. Ah OK, you've got a standard rear mount. You might rethink that when you witness how hard the R32 kicks back onto the mounts under load :D Without the mount trimming, the DP exit flange is pressed hard up against the driver's side tunnel wall. Sounds like yours is spot on. If my modified UM DP still isn't to my liking, I will bin it and get the DP one and do what you've done...or just tweak the DP a little now that I have a welder :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 16, 2012 Oh dear, the VT mount looks difficult to modify too! I'm thinking that if there is an issue with the mount too soft I can remove the rubber completely and fit some poly inside the original mount! Having taken it apart I think its doable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 16, 2012 Just a random question for future reference. If I was to upgrade my engine again to a R32, would be a simple swap as it is all ready modified to hold the 2.8 24v lump? I guess they would as they both fit in a mk4 but knowing vw nothing is straight forward. edit: im assumeing you mean from an electrical pov?. i would also like to know this, i think it all depends on what 2.8 you have to whch 3.2 you want in, i guess it all comes down to wether the 3.2 ecu will plug into and align up correctly with the cabin side 2.8 loom you already have fitted, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted July 16, 2012 Oh dear, the VT mount looks difficult to modify too! I'm thinking that if there is an issue with the mount too soft I can remove the rubber completely and fit some poly inside the original mount! Having taken it apart I think its doable. It certainly is doable.... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=64857 Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites