Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[Fanjita 1]

Yeah that's what I ended up doing jim, it really is worth a read a few nights a week! Lets you figure out what you're getting yourself into also :)

 

It's still relevant today though, and Sam revised that a few times IIRC so won't be any wrong information. They are very similar yes, I'm not sure about engine codes, I know some of the older 2.8s were more compatible with the old 12v infrastructure, but not much more than that. It's worth bearing in mind that when I did my conversion (to a 3.2 BUB engine), there was a lot of information that I had to source elsewhere, so I think the guide is more 2.8 and earlier 3.2 oriented.

 

HTH

[VW_OwneR_85 2]

Is there an organized list of all the parts and what sort of engine is needed for the 24v conversion?

 

I suddenly found myself needing to change the engine and found an AUE engine but not sure what else i need to source?

 

depends on how far you take the conversion, i kept mine as simple as possible and im going to assume your want that aswell,

 

so get a complete engine with the alternator + inlet manifold etc etc,

 

-new none aircon belt , unless you have air con and want to keep that,

-ecu the same code as your engine- then send that off for immo defeat and sai removal,

- get both sections of wireing harness again specific to your engine code,

- throttle pedal ,{not sure if thats code specific or not? but might aswell get it the same as engine,

-hybrid custom down pipe, wether you make it up yourself or buy it , its up to you. check my thread for how its done diy.

-new flywheel and clutch plate bolts

 

and from your current engine you have everything else you need, wireing loom for spliceing ,pas pump,engine mountings ,flywheel and clutch, thermostat housing and crack pipe, its realy a fairly easy swap tbh , once you get your head around the wireing as otherwise its just a straight engine swap,

 

take a look at this page its the same for the 24v as it is for the 1.8t, http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?205887-OEM-management-wiring-1-8T-gt-Mk2-harness-install-FAQ as it gives you an idea of what needs to be done,

Edited April 2, 2013 by VW_OwneR_85

[quicky1980 0]

I put something together a while back in the wiki section, maybe that will help you?

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?50720-R32-3-2-24v-Audi-conversion-guide

 

---------- Post added at 12:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------

 

beat me to it. The guide is fairly up to date, just some missing info and some details can be tweaked such as the FPR (turns out that the mk5? has a fuel filter with built in FPR which tidies the install up nicely). But should be detailed enough to give you the rough idea.

 

Agreed this thread is now impossible to find any useful info, hence me creating the guide..all the best

[Fanjita 1]

I wish I'd just have used the fuel filter now sam. I've got this bling fpr from eBay to regulate it! Might well switch over soon.

[quicky1980 0]

me too, much neater install. Kevs a legend for finding that little gem

[Fanjita 1]

Can I just check by the way mate, it was you I stumbled upon on Facebook? I'm james wright on there. I've just realised it could have been someone else from Peterborough who likes vws!

[dil 0]

did you guys fit the oil temp sender in the oil cooler housing?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

It goes into the oil filter housing with a tee off. I'm not convinced that's any good though to be honest as I was getting some crazy low oil temps, even with a new sensor. If I did it again, I would tap the sump (M10x1) round the back away from the air flow instead.

[dil 0]

ah ok, so in the housing is the same as the oem system found on VR6, i would have thought that this would work great , is it the use of a Tee thats messing with the reading you are receiving?

 

would the use of one of these adaptors for the sump be an adequate solution, i dont fancy drilling a hole....

 

http://www.rspec.co.uk/gauge-sensor-adaptors/oil-temp-pressure/oil-temp-sensor-sump-plug-adaptor-m14-x-1.5mm

Edited April 3, 2013 by dil

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I haven't seen those before. Neat idea! Unfortunately the thread for the sensor is NPT and it needs to be M10x1. I had a real problem finding a Tee that was M10 male and 2 x M10 female. I think there's one on ebay somewhere, but yep, it's the tee off that's messing with the readings I think. The other problem with some of the longer Ts is the sensor fouls the crack pipe, so you have to undo the filter housing and tilt it forward. Not something you want to do after the engine's in and the bumper/slam panel are back on!

 

Another option would be to screw the sensor directly into the oil filter housing's top port (as per OE Corrado) and T off the front (plugged by default) port for the 2 oil pressure senders.

[dil 0]

I recently swapped out the stat in my r32 and now i've got a massive air lock or i have been super unlucky and my water pump has gone , as my coolant temp is up and down during any journey, so need an oil temp reading to give me some comfort.

 

whats the consesus on how many lambdas are required for optimal running, as mine only has one in a dubpower manifold using standard management tweaked for one lambda , i've read that this isn't ideal, the posts were quite old on vwvortex, so not sure if this still stands true.

[Fanjita 1]

What about insulating the t piece Kevin? I have some exhaust wrap and notice how significant the vehicle speed affects the temperature reading! Around 90mph on a private road its reading 65c

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I recently swapped out the stat in my r32 and now i've got a massive air lock or i have been super unlucky and my water pump has gone , as my coolant temp is up and down during any journey, so need an oil temp reading to give me some comfort.

 

That is unlucky as the VR6 and R32 engines are not ones that attract air locks in my experience, unless something else is wrong. When you say water pump, do you mean the electric one? Can you hear it buzzing when the car is off? It's preferable to leave all 12V fan stuff in place when doing this conversion and then the after run pump should stay working. How old is the engine? The main pumps can wear out with age and the another thing that makes VRs/24Vs run hot is an old radiator that's lost it's cooling efficiency. Could be silted up. Is it the original MK3 rad?

 

whats the consesus on how many lambdas are required for optimal running, as mine only has one in a dubpower manifold using standard management tweaked for one lambda , i've read that this isn't ideal, the posts were quite old on vwvortex, so not sure if this still stands true.

 

Just the front 2 mate and the rears disabled in software. You need a front sensor per bank so that the front and rear banks get the same fuelling. I thought the dubpower mani had both sensor bungs in it already? The R32 runs 4 sensors as standard. 2 widebands before the cats (1 per bank) and 2 narrowbands after the cats (1 per cat).

 

What about insulating the t piece Kevin? I have some exhaust wrap and notice how significant the vehicle speed affects the temperature reading! Around 90mph on a private road its reading 65c

 

Yeah I was going to try that before I sold the car! Some kind of wind shield around the t peice!

[dil 0]

That is unlucky as the VR6 and R32 engines are not ones that attract air locks in my experience, unless something else is wrong. When you say water pump, do you mean the electric one? Can you hear it buzzing when the car is off? It's preferable to leave all 12V fan stuff in place when doing this conversion and then the after run pump should stay working. How old is the engine? The main pumps can wear out with age and the another thing that makes VRs/24Vs run hot is an old radiator that's lost it's cooling efficiency. Could be silted up. Is it the original MK3 rad?

 

its a mk4 R32 engine, age unknown, the car was already built when I purchased it, i'm know educting myself in readyness for a mk2 r32 conversion thats waiting to be started. I'm getting a steady flow out of the return water pipe, which i had assumed means the pump is fine?? the rads warms up , both bottom and top pipes warm up to the point they cannot be held for more than a few seconds by hand.

 

The fans tend to pulse on and off when they do run, i have checked the fans by bridging connections at the fan switch connection block and they work fine on both speeds , so i think either the fan switch is knackered or my controller is knackered, the electric pump is working.

 

 

 

 

 

Just the front 2 mate and the rears disabled in software. You need a front sensor per bank so that the front and rear banks get the same fuelling. I thought the dubpower mani had both sensor bungs in it already? The R32 runs 4 sensors as standard. 2 widebands before the cats (1 per bank) and 2 narrowbands after the cats (1 per cat).

 

correction i only have one lambda connection in the link pipe, nothing in the manifolds. When i recently ordered the manifold for the mk2 conversion Peter from dubpower also commented that two in the manifold were not required and one in the link pipe was all that was needed, we still got the two in the manifold due to reading that this is what was required in a setup.

 

Below is a pic of the lambda plug, it has 6 wires intotal i think

 

Edited April 3, 2013 by dil

[dil 0]

guys so i ditched the single lambda setup as the car just wasn't putting out what i felt was a decent power. The car now feels rapid but......

 

i've ran vagcom on the car and i have the following errors, one of these or maybe all of them is causing the car to go into safe mode, i can clear the codes down on the move and the car comes out of safe mode but then shortly goes into back safe mode. Any idea which of these could be the cause of the car going into "safe mode"?

 

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2

Saturday, 20 April 2013, 10:31:31:0

Control Module Part Number: 022 906 032 CP

Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1 6463

Software Coding: 0000132

Work Shop Code: WSC 00000

VCID: 5BC9146FDA3D

5 Faults Found:

17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80): Open Circuit

P1426 - 004 - No Signal/Communication

19475 - Valve for Exhaust Flap 1 (N321): Open Circuit

P3019 - 004 - No Signal/Communication

17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299): Open Circuit

P1433 - 004 - No Signal/Communication

17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112): Open Circuit

P1432 - 004 - No Signal/Communication

16885 - Vehicle Speed Sensor: Implausible Signal

P0501 - 004 - No Signal/Communication

Edited April 20, 2013 by dil

[Fanjita 1]

The evap and sai mate. You'll need to dummy these or fit them for real.

[Fanjita 1]

My management is causing problems, been diagnosed as a faulty ECU due to water damage.

 

Anyone have a mk5 ecu? Ill put a wanted ad in too.

[dil 0]

so it turned out to be a lack of VSS signal back to ECU. Fixed this and rev limit/safe mode hasn't kicked back in.

[matty golf 0]

Anybody know what this plug is. Save me going through my diagrams

[quicky1980 0]

not sure what that plug is sorry.

 

@ Dil, what makes you confident that the manifold lamdas arent required (Pete at Dubpower isnt an engine expert from what i recall, he gets the info from another source). What do you mean by link pipe? My understanding is that the lamdas in the manifold help trim the fueling for both banks of cylinders. You may be right that its not essential, but Im sure it helps with obtaining smoothness, fuel efficiency and even power. Post cat lambdas in standard setup is to check the cat's are correctly functioning iirc so it doesnt have any influence on the engine performance. But correct me if im wrong.

 

When Kevin and I were trying to sort out an issue on my car we swapped the front lamdas around and found that it had an influence on the AFR iirc.

[dil 0]

Sam, I ditched the single lambda setup and had bosses installed in my dubpower manifold, i now have 2 pre-cats and 0 Post -cats, which i believe is the norm for such conversions.

[Fanjita 1]

Yeah that's the best way. If you want to see what the lump runs like without lambdas at all, come see mine!

 

I wouldn't recommend it at all, it's only through ecu problems that mine is doing this. Can't wait to have it adaptive and using the lambdas, should give me a noticeable boost in the engine performance!

[dil 0]

I've also had to ditch the ECU that i had , k-line had been disabled, and just made problem solving a real issue.

 

The Car runs 90% fine on the current ECU which reported all the previous faults, but that ECU is still looking for rear lambdas, the new ECU is having all those errors plus rear lambda coded out, so i'm hoping this will sort out the missing 10% of performance.

 

anyone had their cars rolling roaded on standard ECU power config? I'm off to a rolling road session on sunday , just wondering what numbers I should expect to see out of my car if its running reasonably well....

[Fanjita 1]

AFAIK mate you should expect standard power. You're mkv yes? So around 247 mark.

 

My ecu has had the rears coded out, but it still throws a fault. There's nothing you can do about that. Just make sure it's adapting, you can see it on the vag com real time data for long and short term fuel trim, also watch the lambdas!

[dil 0]

MKIV, so decat and manifold has negligible impact on these motors ability to produce more power?

 

i need to see if i can get the following to work at some point

 

0-60 and quarter mile

 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/acceleration.html

 

bhp & torque

http://www.ross-tech.net/vag-com/examples/Block_120_Tutorial.xls