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gradeAfailure

Anyone tried their hand at spraying?

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Was pootling about online today, and started looking into the prices of compressors and spray guns and stuff - and it got me thinking about splashing out and trying to learn how to spray.

 

http://www.diy-compressors.com/shop/sta ... v-spraying

 

It's only £94, so the quality isn't going to be pro or anything, but for blowing over scrapes and stonechips until I can afford a full-on respray, it's gotta be worth a thought...

 

I know spraying seems like a bit of a black art, but surely if you practise enough then it's no harder than anything else?

 

Anyone been there, done it, bought the t-shirt?

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mate ive seen ppl spray using aerosols and get near on bodyshop results... its all in the prep mate, it really is

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I had another go at lacquering my rear lights last night as they came out a bit orange peely the last time, learnt from my mistakes and it came out really well this time.

 

Moral of the story is, practice. Let us know if you get good, you could offer cheap resprays to CF members!

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100% agree with furkz, take your time with the preperation, and you can acheive a very good result.

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I am sure you could pick up plenty of cheap Bonnets/doors/wings down at your local scrappie to practice on, you'll get it right eventually. (they dont need to be Raddo ones)

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Sorry, have to disagree, my mate has just finished his 4 year apprentiship as a bodysprayer and works for a very good company who have contracts with BMW,Merc and Bentley,Ferrari,Lamborghini,Porsche,etc,etc

 

He says tht its all about experience,experience and even more experience, These guys have different eyes to us!! He can walk up to so called show cars and spot things that we never even noticed( or the owner sumtimes!)

Also quality of paints,materials,ovens,dust,etc,etc is a major major part!

 

Not trying to put you off its true that the prep work is very important but theres alot more to it than you think, imo save up and leave it the professionals.

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I am sure you could pick up plenty of cheap Bonnets/doors/wings down at your local scrappie to practice on, you'll get it right eventually. (they dont need to be Raddo ones)

Hmmm, could be an idea... anyone know where I could gen up on the types of paint used (cellulose, 2-pack, water-based, etc), where to buy it from (local bodyshop?), books on how-to...?

 

jenks, I see your point, but I'm not talking about being able to do a pro-quality respray in my garage, just being able to blow-in scratches and paint chips to an acceptable standard til I can afford to pay the pros!

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you would need some sort of breathing gear to use the 2 pack suff...isocyanates and all that...not too sure about cellouse stuff these days, there was talk of gradually phasing it out and only supplying the trade.........have you looked into it, my knowledge is limited on the up to date siuation due to leaving the car game some years ago

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I think flusted painted his own car, it's a brave thing to do but I admire anyone for having a go.

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Like furk'z said, I think it's all in the prep, but if you get enough paint on there, you can just sand it back a little (1200 or finer!) and polish it for great results! ( think that's what they do in American Hotrod!!!)

 

I tried that method on the back of my Mk2, it's not perfect, but it's ok!

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I am doing my front bumper att he moment!! using 2K paint, this gives a very good finish and is relatively straight forward to use.. like its been mentioned before its all down to the prep work and experience! i do most of my painting in my garage at home, i can get the finish looking very professional as long as time is taken, on bigger panels like the bonnet leave it too the pros.... much larger area to fuck up!! but for smaller areas its not hard you just need patients.

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but for smaller areas its not hard you just need patients.

 

You do it on humans??! :shock: ;)

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but for smaller areas its not hard you just need patients.

 

You do it on humans??! :shock: ;)

 

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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i mite beable to help ya i used to be a painter :)

 

if ya just wanting to paint say bumpers etc in flat colours,then thats not gonna be too hard with a bit of practice..

 

2 pack is whats mainly used now its alot better than celly but more expensive and dangerous if you breath it in..

u need good extraction if you start spraying in ya garage it wont belong before your eyes are burning and you cant see what your doin..

little compressors are too small for painting whole cars and so is a standard garage.

but for small jobs sutch as toutching up a smaller gravity fed toutch up gun with say a 1mm nozle would do.

 

you wont beable to blend 2k laqure in to existing paint very well so your looking at full panels on mets.

 

so if you stick to flats and using a small gun for toutch up or you can paint a wing etc then after practice ul improve.

 

filler primers etc can be used and flatted back with 1200 wet and dry etc like someone else said, then a top coat but if you apply loads ul end up with a worse finish so the better the gun finish with a nice amount of paint and then if you need to it can be flatted down to remove peel 1200n - 2000 grit and the machine polished this is with a buffer for that pupose with special mops and paste not a grinder .

 

sum of this may help altho this is my methods and im not stateing there the right ones..i did paint my last corrado and soon the front of my new one unfortunately i dont have any pics of me painting my car but i do of my bike ive just done not corrado related but may be of a little use to you.

 

and im sure it was this forum i had posts on before when i had my last rado :?http://www.daytona600.org/viewtopic.php?t=4604

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im not sure why the link wont work but im sure youl pick it up if you have a go,just keep everything realy clean.

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but for smaller areas its not hard you just need patients.

 

You do it on humans??! :shock: ;)

 

Is this not the correct method.... :)

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timmmy, cheers mate! though that sucks about not being able to blend in 2K lacquer on metallics - I have some nasty scrapes on one of my rear arches that I wanted to blow over, but is there no way of blending the lacquer in at all?

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cheers for the link sorting..

 

im saying ul see the blend mate with the 2k u wont with the flat colours just the mets so i take it ya cars met..

 

so you could try this way prime ya area apply ya base coat ya met colour. when thats on you cant flat it etc or anything u need to laqure it then after its dryed off were talkin maybe 15 mins not days to give you an idea depending obviously on temperature and ya amount of base coat.normaly a super fast flash thinner ot something specificaly for base coats.

 

so when u put a base on keep it as small as poss to cover up ya marks then blow ya laqure over.. then when its dryed u need to try blend it but remeber your vw paint will be thin so if you take to it with 1200 grit u mite go thru the paint same goes on ya new laqure go thru to the base coat and its ruind.. so i recon sumthing like farcela hand grade like t cut but for comercial refinishing..

 

mets are harder mate then its all practice but if ya start using comercial paints and polishing gear obviously ur gonna get better results than with a crap can of halfords paint that will probo fade and drop off :)

 

like i said if there other painters on here there may well be a way to get good results laqure blending with 2k but iv never had real sucsess but im also been very picky when i say ul faintly see the blend..

 

sumtimes ur local autofactors who supply paint will be able to give you advice obviously i could go on for ages if theres anything else i can help you with il try my best i personaly would only paint my own cars etc in 2k..but if ur gonna try invest in a resonable gas mask with atleast carbon filters.. ul find guns etc on ebay 2k sets like rubber coating and so it takes to buffing alot better than celly so you can work with it more to flat and polish to get a perfect finish.

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yeah, been looking on eBay... :) what do i need to look for in a gun? and what primer/paint/laquer would VW have used for the original paint?

 

yeah, mine's aqua blue pearl, but the girlf's is flash red (flat colour) so hopefully i'll get experience of both!

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is it just small ares u want to do then? obviously the gun size, a toutch up gun with a smaller nozle is good for toutch ups etc but for a full motor ud be wanting a bigger nozle or bigger gun,2k is generaly thicker than celly so the gun nozzles are bigger..

 

im not sure about what vw used? i mean to gain experiance u could have a crack with the celly so thats like using the gun instead of the areasol tins from ya motor store,

 

depends how far your looking to go with it..your local autofactors may beable to put you the 2k into areasol tins. the one i use can

 

2k primer with 2k paints but like upol do aerosl primers that will easly do your task..

 

if your only looking at toutching up maybee areasols made up with 2k etc mite ba a better option for u? the buffers and sponges etc arnt cheap so u can get a hand grade rubbing compound.

 

id say if you ring a few autofactors that do paint mention 2k and if they can make areasols ul find most paint mixers at them places will have been painters ul get mutch better results with made up areasol with 2k than ya local halfords paints

 

please excuse the bad spelling. http://www.autopaintinternational.com just dont take to ya car straght away with the areasols or owt practice a bit before and keep everthing realy clean good luck autopaint have stores alover if that helps

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Well, i've got the official touch-up can kit from VW, and on test sprays the colour match seems to be fairly good... guess i'll give that a go to start with and work up from there!

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