Anyone tried their hand at spraying?

[dinkus 10]

We need a bodywork tips section.

 

Feel free to write a wiki article on bodywork tips and tricks ;)

[CaiosG60 PWR 0]

That looks good Riley!

 

The compressor I've got does run on a normal socket. It was the biggest I could find that would. Has some slow start function or something so it doesnt trip breakers.

 

So whats the deal with choosing either gravity feed or suction feed? Also whats HVLP all about?

 

How much would these guns be? (cant find price on net)

 

http://www.anest-iwata.co.uk/products.a ... 2&Prod=164

 

or this

 

http://www.anest-iwata.co.uk/products.a ... 2&Prod=163

[StormchargedVR6 0]

HVLP is high volume low pressure guns, which most guns are today. Gravity gun is the one to get. These are the ones paintshops use,for a good gun ,i would use SATAJET.

[CaiosG60 PWR 0]

I know what HVLP stands for, but should I get one of those and why?

 

Nice one I wasnt sure wether to get a gravity or not. Glad somones cleared that up for me. Someone on Dubforce just bought a SATAJET, I'd like one of those or a Devilbiss GTI. I think the GTi maybe easier to pick up second hand than the SATA.

[StormchargedVR6 0]

Why painters use HVLP is better gun finish, theres less pressure and more volume of paint on the panel, which makes less over spray.

GTI are very good and very light, I have always gone for Satajet , its what you like using. If you do buy HVLP you will need a mini regulater at the gun.

[CaiosG60 PWR 0]

Thanks Radostormvr6 :-)

[tim20vt 0]

moving it on a bit, - bumper repair, anyone got any tips on repairing the plastic on a bumper?

My bumper has a perfect circle pressed into it, I suspect from driving into the back of someones exhaust.

Plastic welding tips?

 

We need a bodywork tips section.

 

melt the plastic back in place with a soldering iron,rough the back up with 80 grit and then blather it in premix fibreglass then fill and highbuild prime the front.

 

"How much would these guns be? (cant find price on net) "

 

think myn was 80-100 quid like 3 years ago and it was doin nearly a car a week and its still goin strong, there a devilbiss replica and with a fast flash thinner made by manor think its shipley paint i never realy flat owt or use a buffer. but i did before using a realy good thinner,guess it all depends what works for ya.

every painter will have there own ways and what paint and guns they prefere to get the best finish from the gun to save the work on the flatting and buffing.

[greenbeltvr6 0]

On the subject of bodywork, anyone know how to remove badges (the 'corrado' and 'VR6' ones) from the rear so I can repair a dent there? Oh - and I want to be able to put them back on...

[dinkus 10]

'Corrado' script is held on by 4 lugs - very carefully pull it off and you'll be ok.

 

Any other badges (VR6, G60, 16V, Storm) ones are stuck on, so hot air gun and some quiet time is needed.

[greenbeltvr6 0]

Cheers Dinkus,

VERY carefully - does that mean there's some plastic 'prongs' that go through the panel that I'm most likely gonna snap?

Would the missus's hair dryer count as a hot air gun? :lol:

[gradeAfailure 0]

and to resurrect this slightly - found a good site with decent bodywork and painting tips: http://www.autobodystore.com

 

go to the Classroom section and absorb knowledge as if you were a knowledge-holding sponge!

[s.g 0]

looks like a good site, nice one :thumbleft:

[Bojmobile 0]

always handy to know!

[g60greeny 0]

i wish i stayed learnin autobody repair,would have come in right handy now i want me G sprayin :mad:

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

Just read this thread, might get me a spray kit and get a door off me mates metro before he scraps it for some practice :-P

 

I got nice paint on mine but so many imperfections.

[gradeAfailure 0]

Seee, loads of the U.S. guys have a crack at spraying, but over here it's regarded as a black art...! gonna borrow me a compressor and a gun and have a go at a new wing for mine...

[Guest]

dont do it lol unless you have the right stuff then its childs play. key is in the prep.

 

Prep with 1000/1500 grit

2 pac primer - chemically dries rather then 1 pac that needs baking

paint - 50/50 mix with thinner

clear top gen 90/10 mix

 

then 1500 followed by 2000 once dry and then g3 to polish/ flattern & g10 finish

[gradeAfailure 0]

that seems to be the consensus generally... just patience and having a good idea of what you're actually doing!

 

Have heard of some stuff that PPG and DuPont do that allows you to blend in lacquer as well, so may have to track that down...

[mtc R32 0]

I recently purchased a Corrado that does need spraying at the front end, stone chips and stuff..... The garage told me that most of the expense for the garage is the prep work as it takes alot of time... Might have a go at preppin myself to cut the costs.... Now where do i start and what materials ????

[Guest]

mtc R32, your'll probably piss the spray shop off by doing that as they'll end up finishing what you started unless you trully can do it properly

 

Just pay them to do a job and find one that is willing to spend time doing it properly!

 

P.s. And welcome to the club

[g60greeny 0]

mtc R32, and i'm sure that they wont guarantee (sp) the work either if you do the prep work yaself,seen as the prep work is the most important part of the job

[flusted 0]

I used celleluse to spray mine as its dry in 10mins although they are stopping doing it.Mine has now polished up nicely but im goin to spray it again in the next month or so as im fitting a tt petrol cap.

Make sure theres no dust and its very warm when you spray as these are the 2 things that messed up my 1st attempt

[Yandards 0]

There is a company on the bay that will mix up and sell both 2pack and cellulose for a resonable price, they also sell the thinners etc to go with it.

 

From the various articles I have read online the best bet for painting a scratch out etc is cellulose. The reason being that you can add loads of thinners to it to get an even blend with the existing paint work, IIRC around 3 parts thinners to 1 part paint for the final coats.

 

2 pack is nasty stuff and not only can you suffer from breathing it in but it also enters the body via the eyes and any cuts - hence the full face forced ari breathing kit. 2 pack is better for doing whole panels as it is easier to get a flat finish.

 

If you do decide to paint anything I would highly recommend you get a high quality mask with a suitable filter, you are looking for a catridge type mask with a filter suitable for vapour protection not a dust mask.

 

I am currently painting my GT6 in a back to bare metal job and am using a compressor and gravity fed gun. I would make sure that you drain the compressor of water and use a pair of inline air filters to remove the contaminates from compressor - last thing you need is oil and water in your paint.

 

When painters say 'it's all in the prep' they actually mean everything aside from the colour paint you spray on. Base coats of etching high build primer are applied first then you should fill, sand and apply a guide coat of colour paint so you can see the imperfections.

 

link: http://www.citroen-restoration.co.uk/ds/painting.php

[flusted 0]

i bought my paint from jewel paints from ebay,very helpful and very cheap.

Local 1ltr was 37quid

theres was 2.5ltr 25quid!!!!

Got all the pAint,primer,thinners and spray gun delivered for 100quid

[gradeAfailure 0]

So how much paint would you need for say, three layers of basecoat on an entire car?