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ReekieVR

secure sub box in boot

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I have a sub box i want to secure in my boot. I had thought of using a plasma tv bracket so i could remove the sub if i wanted, but i dont think its a goer.

 

My next plan was a ratchet strap but where can i attach it to ?

 

How do other people fix their sub boxes in place?

 

Any tips for drilling bolt holes or fixing points in the boot / wheel arch area ?

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I used 2 velcro strips about 2'' wide across the entire width of my sub box when I had it in the mk1... that kept it there no matter how hard I drove 8)

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So do people think that velcro will stop decapitaion in the event of a crash or is it just a calculated risk?

 

I mean you are only velcroing it to something else which isnt securly attached to the car !

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I sikaflexed in 2 angle brackets onto the boot floor then used some self tappers to hold the box onto them. I simply put a slit into the carpet so that they popped through where I needed 'em to be... 8)

 

I've since got rid of the big heavy box and put in an infinity basslink which is held down with velcro and tied to the back seat so it can't slide about.... It's about the lightest thing I have in the boot of my car, so in the event of an accident, I'm more worried about the toolbox coming through the back seat and my head! :oops:

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Tell that to _Monkey !!:

 

"My last install used to get shop windows rattling as i drove by, however, when underestimating a bend on a wet night, they decided to leave the car after hitting me in the head! Morale of the story? ALWAYS bolt your sub boxes down as the back seats offer as much protection as tissue paper!!"

 

I know i am probably being over-cautious - but he did use capitals....

If the seat latch gives in a front-on impact, it will form a lovely ramp aiming directly at my head, no?

 

 

thanks Henny. Advice appreciated.

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make a false floor out of MDF. remove the boot carpet and that gives u a rough pattern to copy. then take your sub out of its box n put some self tappers through into the mdf. mine didn't move when i had it in.

one good tip though if you plan to use your spare wheel in an emergency cut the mdf that curles round the rear archs to the back panel this will allow you to drop the rear seats and push it all back allowing access to wheel

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Tell that to _Monkey !!:

 

"My last install used to get shop windows rattling as i drove by, however, when underestimating a bend on a wet night, they decided to leave the car after hitting me in the head! Morale of the story? ALWAYS bolt your sub boxes down as the back seats offer as much protection as tissue paper!!"

 

I know i am probably being over-cautious - but he did use capitals....

If the seat latch gives in a front-on impact, it will form a lovely ramp aiming directly at my head, no?

 

 

thanks Henny. Advice appreciated.

 

 

As if by magic! :D

 

 

Funny you should say this as I'm now doing my first install since that fatefull night!!!

 

I've learned a lot about crash/impact weight changes etc since then, and my latest plan is kind of a mash up of a lot of advice already given:

 

I've made a very tight false floor, which I'm gonna Teamaflex (stickaflex etc...same stuff) to the boot floor, then I'm gonna bolt everything to that.

 

I've seen vehicle conversions (racking etc) in crash tests using the above method and the racking moved all of an inch!!!

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the round sub box in mine is secured using the bolt that normally holds the spare wheel in place, i just put the box in first, bolted it down then screwed the actual sub speaker into the box, so i dont think its should come loose too easily.

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Ok guys. Ta for the advice. Will have a think what to do.

 

While i am here - did any of you bother soundproofing the boot area ? Was only gonna use cheap roofing stuff if, but is there any point in doing it at all ?

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I've made an 'L'-shaped bracket that bolts to the top of the lefthand suspension tower where the rear shelf support is secured by a nut on a stud, that and it's a tight fit in the wheel arch and between the rear bulkhead and the rear seats.

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I did THIS

 

It is firmly wedged behind the rear wheel, and secured using a custom hidden hook thingy, on the rear top corner. No drilling what so ever to the car. The box is a GRP mould I made. Some day I will make the female mould, and start knocking them out on mass!

 

Phil

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I saw a test done on 5th Gear or some other motoring program about the dangers of having tool kits etc in the boot, and how little protection the rear seats offer, it was quite scary really, seeing half a dozen wrenches fligh through the gap between the rear seats, through the head rest, then out though the windscreen, it was an eye opening.

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Yeh - i saw that one too. _Monkeys experience just reminded me of it thats all.

 

I think i may use the velcro method, but attach a short, but chunky leash to the box. If i am involved in a high speed crash, it will tether the box before it gets to me. Just need a suitable fixing method. I like the suspension strut idea and will have a look this weekend.

 

Cheers guys.

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Tell that to _Monkey !!:

 

"My last install used to get shop windows rattling as i drove by, however, when underestimating a bend on a wet night, they decided to leave the car after hitting me in the head! Morale of the story? ALWAYS bolt your sub boxes down as the back seats offer as much protection as tissue paper!!"

 

I know i am probably being over-cautious - but he did use capitals....

If the seat latch gives in a front-on impact, it will form a lovely ramp aiming directly at my head, no?

 

 

thanks Henny. Advice appreciated.

 

Simple, keep the rear seatbelts done up, they will stop the rear seats in the event of the latches breaking...

 

Or a "Bulkhead" behind the seats.... ;)

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ReekieVR,

 

I have used the velcro with short chain method in the past, what I did was to use the part of a sliding bolt assembely - the part which the bolt slides into, I riveted this to the side of the boot (shove the drill bit right into the chuck on the drill so u dont pop out of the rear wing once your drilled through) then I bolted a chain the the sub box and padlocked the chain to the part robbed from the bolt assy. As everyone has said the velcro is enough to stop it moving under driving conditions and the chain will stop the bad boy sparking you out in the event of a crash- plus using a padlock intead of fixing it to the side of boot directly makes it easier to remove, also makes life a hell of a lot more difficult for thieving gobsh*te$ ! Oh and use steel rivets not ally ones!

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Ziderapple - i eventually got a 1 m length of plastic coated, galvanised steel rope from b&q, and a pack of 'u' bolts. The rope is passed though a few parts of the inner shell around the boot / tail light area and clamped into a loop. No drilling - but not quite as secure as 6 rivits ...

 

Will post some pix when its tidied up.

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