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iow_corrado_g60

If u wanted to improve [handling] what would u buy???

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Hi all as soon as my engine is done and she has had a good service from darren new oil sump, rear brakes then her m.o.t!

 

I will be looking to make my handling better not that its bad by any means just thats this is the next step i want to take!

 

So can i please ask you all what you would spend your money on and why? e.g arb's strut brace, topmounts etc

 

My C already has Koni Coilovers!

 

Cheers Andy

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rear arb.

 

Train on track springs to mind, from what I've heard. Haven't got one myself but from what I've heard they make a nice difference.

 

T.

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Is there an issue with arb's and very low ride heights?

 

I was thinking of a rear arb, but thought I'd heard mention of the fact that if your wishbones are pointing the wrong way anyway, then there's no point in fitting an arb?

 

Any thoughts???

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Not sure.

 

I've heard that with mkiv golfs and boras with front arbs

 

Dont think it will effect a rear arb on the Rado'

 

T.

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ya ha

 

stick with just rear and standard front and if anything you'll get oversteer. uness you're gay then get a front one too for some straight ahead action :)

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If your still on original bushes then your not going to get anywhere near the performance from any of the above! Fitting new rear bushes really does give a WoW factor and imo should be one of the first consideration.

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If your still on original bushes then your not going to get anywhere near the performance from any of the above! Fitting new rear bushes really does give a WoW factor and imo should be one of the first consideration.

 

Yeah a complete rebush of all the rubber stuff on the car will work wonders. But seriously your big phat rims are detrimental to ride and handling.

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i may be changing to 8's all round soon yandards will this make a difference?

 

Yes, the wider/taller the wheel the more the weight = more rotating mass = more energy required for change in direction of rotating mass = less responsive turn in. (Car tramlines)

 

A larger rim in both diameter and width will also decrease your acceleration as again more energy from the engine is required to overcome the extra weight.

 

I am also guessing that you will only be able to fit 8' rim with your drop by using a streched tyre - this is definitely not good for handling at all and I would not recommend driving it hard if you do.

 

Basically it comes down to a decision between form and function - do you want it to look a certain way or drive a certain way? All the decisions are a compromise in one direction or the other.

 

But ultimately is does come down to the driver. During our recent trip to the ring the fastest car on the track was a standard 1.8 16v. Why? Because the guy driving it had a passenger who knew where to brake and the lines for the corners. (One G60, and 2 VR's were also there)

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Start with the chassis rebush as already mentioned - any uprated suspension part is only as good as the next part in the chain it's attached to, and if said part happens to be 300 years old.....!!

 

Then obviously you want some decent coilovers - ones that have good compliance over bumps if you want the car to handle well.

 

Then you want a tasty rear ARB - the Front is fine. If you stiffen the front too much with a big ARB and a brace, it will understeer. An oversteer bias is preferable as it gives a sharper turn-in and less wash out on roundabouts.

You can get single ARBs from Neuspeed and H&R. The former isn't maintenance free tho.

 

If you've got a fat back box, watch the ARB mount bolt to back box clearance when lowering, you might need to dent the back box.

 

Light wheels as Yan suggested, that is key to responsivness.

 

Wishbones shouldn't be pointing above parallel if possible - if you want decent travel over B roads at 3 figure speeds ;-)

 

Increase positive caster. Caster is king on FWD cars, makes heck of a difference. Easy way is by offset ball joints (from a Polo), slightly harder way is specialist top mounts and the mega way is completely changing the chassis turrets, which is cool :-)

 

Dump excess baggage! Weight is the killer of acceleration as heat is the killer of engine power.

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Kev - Im running a set of MED's now coupled to a fully poly bushed chassis kw V2's and a set of H&R arb's and i must admit im smitten with them. Cant wait for julian to come over with his corner weight scales now and set this mk2 up for my trip to the ring next month... :lol:

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ive also notcied that have the car level and not in a nose down position really helps with acceleration, really feels like your being pushed along in comparision with haveing the nose down, we will have to have a good play round the ring and see what setup works best for our enthusiastic drive home.

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What Kev says - particularly (once you've got all the nice new bits on it) getting the ride-height to somewhere sensible.

 

A little more -ve camber than stock on the front at whatever ride-height you end up with will also help.

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Kev - tell me more about the Polo BJ's?

 

I'm happy with the steering not on the TDi after fitting the fixed column, i've booked it in for 4 wheel in a weeks time and i'm going to get the H&R camber bolts fitted, wondering if I should get the BJ's at the same time??

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Kev - Im running a set of MED's now coupled to a fully poly bushed chassis kw V2's and a set of H&R arb's and i must admit im smitten with them. Cant wait for julian to come over with his corner weight scales now and set this mk2 up for my trip to the ring next month... :lol:

 

Good man 8) I've just about worn out my bearings after a few K's daily use, so they don't last long! You can get replacements from MED direct for about £12 a pair though. Well worth the hassle for the improvements they give.

 

Has Julian got his scales fixed now? He said they were broken last time I spoke to him about it!

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