help me please im going mad

[lottysvdub 0]

hi guys can anyone help me try to fathom out this problem with my car , today wife reversed it out the drive and the car cut out and wouldnt restart , this has happened a couple of times to me in the past i normaly wait a mo and then it starts , anyway tonight i got home i disconected the cold start injector and un plugged the ISV engine idle went up to 1000rpm then reconneced tie ISV and the idle stayed the same so i took it for a run to put some petrol in as my wife hasnt yet found out were that goes :lol: , the car went like a rocket , i dont think its ever run so well no popping back through the exhaust and no flatspot on acceleration , anyway stoped got fuel and fired up the car all seemed fine but idle speed down to 800rpm and lots of popping back and not so crisp on pulling away , now the cold start injector is still diconected as im not sure if its over fueling on a warm start up , but im not to sure what to do next is it possible for the ISV valve to cause all these problems i have cleaned it thoroghly and im thinking of running the car with it disconected . please if anyone has any suggestion as to what may be causing these problems i really could do with some help :D :D :D

[lottysvdub 0]

anyone got any ideas --------- please :cry:

[Crasher 3]

Can you get a fault code read done?

[NickVR6 0]

yeah, worth a quick VAGCOM run. If you fancy a drive to salisbury on saturday to the garage i help out it at, ill do it for you there.

[steveo29 0]

if its the 16v in your sig, ive always found mine will stall easily straight after a cold start , and if you do stall it its a pig to restart

[Neil VR6 0]

My 200SX and the Puma both fail to re-start if you stall is when it's cold or start the car to move it a few feet. With the SX, you take the fuse out for the fuel pump out and then try to start it. Then pop the fuse back in and it'll start 1st time. With the Puma you just hold the throttle to the floor, then start it and it fires up. I never suffered this with my G60 though.

[CrazyDave 0]

lots of popping back and not so crisp on pulling away

 

That sounds more like ignition than fueling?

 

But I'm not that familiar with the 16v, does it have dizzy and leads still??

[mistrall 0]

This might sound like a nooby question but wait untill someone on here agrees with me lol - could it be that the timing is retarding its selph after a little drive? meaning that its verry advanced to start with (hence flying) and the not so advanced when it retards its selph?

[lottysvdub 0]

the plug leads cap and arm are fairly new , the timming is set correctly , i dont think its advancing its self , i carnt understand why it went like a rocket when i had disconected the isc valve , i got my hands on a vw fault code reader and tryed to retreve any codes but it didnt seem to work , bloody thing , nick VR6 i carnt make it this saturday but how about next saturday mate , i would appreciate it greatly or when ever convenient for you buddy , thanks guys for the advice im going to try playing around with a few things on sunday any other tips or suggestions would be great guys thanks again everyone :D

[lottysvdub 0]

if anyone has read my thred thats been locked please advise me on what to do next to my car i still havent been able to get a scan done as some one else said all i can scan for is ABS faults , is this true ? i carnt be arsed to re type my last thread as i didnt realise it would be locked !

[Supercharged 2]

lottysvdub, just copy and paste the other one in here - the reason it was locked is that it related to this one and there is information / history already in this thread that may be useful in helping to cure the fault.

[kongo127 0]

Could this be related to a dodgy ignition switch?

 

This used to happen in the past with my previous G60, i replaced the ignition switch, and the problem disapeared...

 

I also had to wait a couple of minutes after the engine cut out, to turn it on again.

 

I remember the last situation once leaving a disco, where i met a nice girl, and offered her a ride home. :luvlove:

 

What a shame... LOL!!! :help:

 

Oh... these Corrado´s are always playing with me!!! :lol:

[CrazyDave 0]

I had a similar problem a while back with a Golf GTI (digifant).

 

When went round the houses, changed plugs, cap, leads, ignition barrell etc etc.

 

Turned out to be a bad connection feeding the injectors. Just as the main loom splits out on the right hand side of the engine (a big sleeve if I remember). The insulation had split and the water got in and cause a high resistance that got worse and worse. Some days it would go like a rocket but damp cold days it would pop and bang and almost stop usually when warm.

 

Do you know what injection system you car has?

 

If you've got Digifant then a scan probably will be no good.

 

Have you checked the switches on the throttle body? or do you have a pot?

[lottysvdub 0]

Gender:

Age: 36

Joined: 13 Nov 2005

Posts: 394

Location: bournmouthshire dorsetshire englandshire

 

 

 

Posted: 15.10.2006, 17:28 need advise please

 

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hi guys its me again as some of you may know my 1992 2ltr 16v has had a few running problems for a while , i would really do with a little advise .

all ignition side is fairly new i.e plugs cap arm leads all good , but im sure the car is over fueling as it back fires alot on overrun and when its ticking over it smells like its running rich at the exhaust ,if you blip the throttle you get a puff of black smoke and lots of sooty deposits come out , today ive set the c/o level to 0.5 % at the manifold instead of 1.5-2.0% and disconnected the 5 injector as i think its throwing itself on as and when it likes , since doing this the car feels more responsive and its stopped popping back on overrun and hardly any black smoke if you give it a boot full , im wondering if the ecu is trying to over fuel the car due to the exhaust being 3inch diamiter and has been de-catted , the o2 sensors are still plugged in to the loom but are tucked up out the way , im thinking if the c/o level has been set to 1.5% and the ecu only wants max .5% this could be the problem also were the 5th injector is faulty making the mixture to rich on a warm start up causing the sod to flood , any ideas guys please , thanks again guys

_________________

its not to fast and it isnt very furious

Blue aqua pearl 40% window tints 2ltr 16v decat stainless steel scorpion ram air induction koni adjustable alround 17" mas italy rims vr6 calipers cross drilled discs goodrich hoses more to come , toys Aprillia RSVR1000 new item SHINY NEW WINDSCREEN

[lottysvdub 0]

CrazyDave its got k jetronic injection system on it so i will look at the loom in the morning , both throttle switches seem to be ok definatly make cliking sound on contact , Kongo 127 i fitted a new ignition switch in the summer to no avail mate and super charged sorry if my top comments seemed sarcastic i had had a really crap day struggling with various car problems and was feeling a little flusterd so sorry mate if i upset you , any other suggestions would be great guys :)

[CrazyDave 0]

It ain't going to like having the o2 sensor tucked out the way.

 

When it goes into closed loop (engine coolant warmed up) it'll start trying to trim the fuel based on the O2 readings.

 

As I said before I'm no expert on valvers but I think you need to get the sensor back in the pipe or it'll never run right.

[lottysvdub 0]

thats somthing ive been concerend about but have no option to re fit the sensors as the de cat pipe has no way of accomadating them , , anyone got any suggestions on that issue ?? . the car has now been running for 2 days with out the cold start injector connected and the car seems to be going really well , but im still not sure what the real problem is , any suggestions on the o2 sensor would be greatly appreciated could i just unplug the sensor and re wire the plug so its reading closed loop all the time ? :iamwithstupid:

[CrazyDave 0]

OK, done a bit of research on this.

 

It seems that if you just unplug the sensor it'll disable the closed loop control.

 

Give it a go. :wink:

[Adam Darby 0]

I had i problem like this with my old 16v i changed everything before i found out what it was, because the garege said that they could only find out what it was if it did it when they had it (this work was for free by the way because its a friend) anyway it turned out to be the dizzy it has some kind of crank sensor in it and that broke.

Mine started doing it every so often but just got worse and worse sometime it would not restart for ages.

Could you not borrow a dizzy of someone to try before you buy

[Phil K 0]

lottysvdub, the 9A can be scanned fully but not with VAG-COM as far as I know. I say this as VAG-COM has only ever been able to read ABS codes on mine but The Phirm have a snap on scanner that is able to read everything... to be honest the 9A's set up is fairly useless - to the point that Tim (at The Phirm) is about to set mine up with the KR system so we can get away from all the associated problems... I suggest giving them a call and maybe getting up to see them as they're not all that far from you! Tim is very helpful and will be able to get you sorted no problems 8)

 

HTH

[lottysvdub 0]

nice one crazey dave i will try that in the morning , Adam Darby

i will see if i can borrow a dizzy form someone if poss and phil k if all else fails i think i may have to contact prim thanks guys for your advise

its good to speak to people who are willing to throw suggestions about :D

[CrazyDave 0]

I remember having a similar problem on my old mk1 Golf road rally car. The pulse pickup in the dizzy just started falling to bits.

 

The wife and I had just finished 140 miles of competetive driving (me at the wheel, her on the maps), just driving to the finish and it start popping and banging and running really rough.

 

I stopped to have a look and it stopped. The guy behind in an Mk2 Escort stopped and said he thought somethng was up when he saw 3ft flames coming out of the exhaust!!!

 

Anyway wiggled a few wires on the dizzy and it started and ran fine. Got to the finish, drove 160 miles home, no problems.

 

Next day it started playing up again.

 

The guy who looked after it for me knew straight away what it was. If you find the little black connector on the dizzy (about three or four pins). The sensor is on the inside of the dizzy behind this plug. You'll need a pair of circlip pliers to get in. Remove the cap rotor and the little plastic shield. You should be able to see the rotor trigger wheel (ally thing with four blades). Look for the black U shaped thing that sits under the rotor. Mine had all fallen to bits and was loose. Best bet it to find another one at a scrapper if your is the same.

 

The rotor comes off by removing the circlip and very carefully pulling it off the shaft. Be very careful not to bend it.

 

A small screw holds the sensor in place, remember how the wire route inside the dizzy.

 

Put it all back together and check the timing.

[Adam Darby 0]

yep exact same problem as mine but i just bought a new dizzy, getting it fixed will be better if you are skint because its cheap lol,

[lottysvdub 0]

nice one guys will look in to that tomorrow , please keep the suggestions comming guys its really appreciated :D