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CrazyDave

Crazy Daves Bog Standard 16v :)

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Dave. Reading that makes me moist.

 

Really like what you are doing there. Would have never even thought about having something like that to sort the signals. Would OBD2 be better, with your crazyfilter ™ or is OBD1 quite sufficient? I'm not a vr owner of any legnth of time, but I've been pretty happy with the way the OBD1 system runs the car.

 

If its a standard car then no need for this stuff. 'When' you start to mod thats when the delicate balance VW set it all up for gets disturbed and needs fixing. Now you could have it mapped and sort it that way, but I don't like the idea of MAFless remaps and £££. Standalone is the very best way to go for serious changes like turbos and supers, but ££££.

 

When I get the lambda trickery sorted we'll see how it feels, may be a good mod for a standard VR. I know mine drove really well with a bit more fuel at part throttle on Megasquirt. Gets rid of that very slight hesitation on part throttle that all OBDI cars have.

 

OBDII is way better as it has wideband O2 (I think) and lots of other nice stuff like staggered injection timing. That's why Golf VR's make 190hp when RR tested with only 2.8lts (and a Corrado needs 2.9).

 

OBDII would still need the MAF sorting for a turbo / BOV combination though.

 

CrazyFilter mmmm catchy :lol:

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Did you have to spend some time logging the sensor outputs in order to know what to adjust with the crazyfilter, or do you just have a couple of set conditions, such as throttle closing and boost having been present in the inlet means that a set of generic signals get passed rather than the actual MAF reading? Is there a slight delay introduced by this box, or is it not noticable? I'm rather intrigued now.....

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Did you have to spend some time logging the sensor outputs in order to know what to adjust with the crazyfilter, or do you just have a couple of set conditions, such as throttle closing and boost having been present in the inlet means that a set of generic signals get passed rather than the actual MAF reading? Is there a slight delay introduced by this box, or is it not noticable? I'm rather intrigued now.....

 

Vagcom & AFR logging mainly plus a bit of scope work to see whats really going on with the MAF signal.

 

The MAP sensor has most of the answers, as you close the throttle at anything but idle you get a very high vacuum, this and boost in the inlet is the cause of the MAF spike when the BOV dumps, so the MAF gets clamped to an idle value when this happens. The clamp has a bit of variation against engine speed just to keep Motronic happy its a valid signal, it throws a MAF implausable if you don't do this.

 

The transfer of the signal is very fast (dsPIC microcontroller running at 40MHz!) as the sampling is running at 1kHz. More than enough for the old Motronic ECU :) . A filter kicks in at low engine speeds to stop the turbine disturbance I saw on the scope you also don't need full MAF rate at idle as it's mainly TPS that kicks the engine into life. The sampling could go much faster as the dsPIC has hardware digital signal processing, but haven't needed that yet.

 

It's funny, but I needed the understanding from running Megasquirt to get to the bottom of the Motronic problems. In fact one of the Megasquirt problems is that it's entirely MAP sensor based, it needs a TPS - MAP blend to get best results. MAP reacts as a result of the throttle changing, but TPS changes first, so best response needs TPS as the primary input not MAP. MAP should be used as compensation for boost conditions. Wow thats how DTA works!

 

Looks like an excellent piece of kit! Nice work, Dave- glad it's sorted the probs out :)

Thanks Andy, it's even quicker now! The guy I buy tyres off sees me as the cornerstone of his business.

 

Nice work. Wanna sell your Megasquirt?

Sorry, it's already been earmarked for a Mk2 Golf Turbo project that a friend of mine is doing 8)

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Cool! Cheers for the info. Would love to know how to knock a box like that up, it's one thing having a vague idea of what the issue is, but being able to custom build an adapter like that astounds me. Will the display show in the car? Could you use it for real-time sensor feedback too?

 

I've been quite impressed with the data you can aquire from VAG COM when logging the sensors, admitedly the sample rate is pretty low, but it gives me an idea of how it's all working. Was amazed to see over 30 degrees of advance. Still can't decide how the ecu works out the engine load... Perhaps its throttle position vs rpm vs rate of change of rpm?

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Cool! Cheers for the info. Would love to know how to knock a box like that up, it's one thing having a vague idea of what the issue is, but being able to custom build an adapter like that astounds me. Will the display show in the car? Could you use it for real-time sensor feedback too?

 

Yep, display will be available in the car. Anything wired in can be displayed (boost, MAF, O2, speed), and it has a pair of serial ports if I can figure out the VAG ECU login I can get all the ECU channels (just like vag-com). Also has an SD card interface for some serious logging potential.

 

I've been quite impressed with the data you can aquire from VAG COM when logging the sensors, admitedly the sample rate is pretty low, but it gives me an idea of how it's all working. Was amazed to see over 30 degrees of advance. Still can't decide how the ecu works out the engine load... Perhaps its throttle position vs rpm vs rate of change of rpm?

 

Not certain, but I guess load is derived for engine speed, TPS, and MAF. Air flow is perhaps the biggest input, as it would be an indication of work being done.

 

 

Just been out in the VR, I reckon its much better than it was on squirt. Need some more timed runs now!

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OBDII is way better as it has wideband O2 (I think) and lots of other nice stuff like staggered injection timing. That's why Golf VR's make 190hp when RR tested with only 2.8lts (and a Corrado needs 2.9).

 

OBDII would still need the MAF sorting for a turbo / BOV combination though.

 

OBD2 is still narrowband, but is MUCH faster than OBD1 and has more fuel adjustment authority, +/- 25%.

MK4s on are wideband though.

 

Does your LM-1 have a simulated 0-1V narrowband output like the LC-1? Never tried that on my Motronic but I think it would work well.

 

OBD2 also has rescalable MAF maps, dozens of fuel maps and at least 8 seperate timing maps (with far better knock control) etc etc. If memory serves me right, OBD2 has 75 seperate maps in total.

OBD1 has less than half that amount. And the 1.8T BAM ECU has well over 120 seperate maps!!

 

Finding them all an deciphering the hex is a task in itself, but knowing which map is for what condition is even harder because they only appear on the screen for the duration of their lifespan.....for example, the cold start maps. The base enrichment map that chucks in 100% fuel for 50 crank turns is only there for a few seconds, then you have to wait until the following morning to see it again!! Then the other cold start maps need deciphering as one of them runs until 70 deg!!!

 

So it's all a royal pain in the butt for remappers, but literally only a handful of clever folk globally know where all the maps are and what they do......hence the £400 charge for a map.

 

This is where Standalones come into their own :-)

 

I still believe OBD2 is the way to go for a daily. And a standalone is for the constant tweakers :-)

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Does your LM-1 have a simulated 0-1V narrowband output like the LC-1? Never tried that on my Motronic but I think it would work well.

 

Yes it has two analog outputs which can be scaled.

 

My idea for the lambda control was to use the wideband probe as feedback to the piggy box, then have my own map for target o2 and adjust the switching point of the narrowband signal to Motronic. This all depends on how big the Motronic authority is and what adjustment I can get away with. Should be good if it will allow enough to richen the part throttle just a bit.

 

I must admit, having driven an OBDII Golf, the general refinement is far better than OBDI. Maybe a future plan :)

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Yeah that's a very good idea! Ideally, as soon as the manifold sees 3-4 psi, you need to be at 13AF or slightly lower. Unfortunately Motronic is going to stubbornly try and stick to 14.8....but that's where your trickery comes in ;-)

 

I think OBD1's lambda adjustment authority is +/- 20%, but Vince will confirm/correct.

 

OBD2 is definitely worth the hassle of fitting it, which to a man of your skills and knowledge would be a pretty straight forward job tbh. Obviously you get the superb idle control, but you also get 4 channels of knock regulation (OBD1 has 1 I think), better MAF control, phased injection, faster lambda, faster everything and more maps!

 

It's just a case of costing it up I suppose. OBD2 is about £300 in parts, your piggy will obviously have costs associated and standalones cost too.....so I guess it's all about selecting the lesser of the 3 evils :lol:

 

Oh and OBD2 ECUs remap extremely well for turbos ;-)

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Really good to chat to you at ED38 Dave, really impressed with the turbo'd VR and your efforts with the standard ECU. Its actually made me think about using the Megasquirt and possibly developing it further, once I've got it up and running, with a better microprocessor.

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Couldn't resist this H plate valver, standard in every way. A few bits of rust around the wings, and the odd ding and dent but a few hours with the box of Megs products did the trick. Drives like a dream even at 140k. No smoke or rattles from the engine.

 

Needs an MOT & TAX, but everything works. Even the sunroof!

 

Still not sure why I bought it, guess I just didn't want it to end up on ebay, then being broken for bits. Lovingly cared for by the previous owner (moving on to a VR) who just happens to be the guy who did all the welding on my turbo bits and bobs!

 

Too many C's being broken up for my liking.

 

2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfnewC1.jpg[/attachment:0e031]

 

newC2.jpg[/attachment:0e031]

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The nicest colour. Looks a decent C, cleaned up pretty good too :).

Guess your gona use it as your run around and not mod it?

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16v and vr6, perfect combination!

 

I'm going to have the turbo situation the other way round though ;)

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Good stuff Dave, great to see another one saved from the breakers. Looks tidy from the pics, what plans have you got in mind for it?

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Cheers all!

 

Yes, it's going to stay standard.

 

Just had a look in the boot and the colour is LC3Y (Bordeaux Red Metallic), anybody know if this is rare?

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Cheers all!

 

Yes, it's going to stay standard.

 

Just had a look in the boot and the colour is LC3Y (Bordeaux Red Metallic), anybody know if this is rare?

 

Its reasonably rare is suppose, but I've got one :lol: It's a pearl as well!! Looks well, when polished 8)

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Cheers all!

 

Yes, it's going to stay standard.

 

Just had a look in the boot and the colour is LC3Y (Bordeaux Red Metallic), anybody know if this is rare?

 

Its reasonably rare is suppose, but I've got one :lol: It's a pearl as well!! Looks well, when polished 8)

 

It's a very strange colour.... my LED torch makes it look mud brown???

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Its reasonably rare is suppose, but I've got one :lol: It's a pearl as well!! Looks well, when polished 8)

 

It's a very strange colour.... my LED torch makes it look mud brown???

 

Sunlight can make it look little bit pink :o

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Looks superb Dave.

 

My old valver was Burgundy Pearl I think and according to some old paperwork I still have its code was L0C3YP2. Anyway yours looks very similar to that.

 

Vaughan

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Good man Dave and saved from being broken as you say! Look forward to seeing it out at some meets / shows :)

 

I should imagine its a bit confusing to be behind the wheel of a Corrado with a completely different level of performance compared to the green beastie?

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Its reasonably rare is suppose, but I've got one :lol: It's a pearl as well!! Looks well, when polished 8)

 

It's a very strange colour.... my LED torch makes it look mud brown???

 

Sunlight can make it look little bit pink :o

 

Dont tell Dinkus!

 

Looks good Dave, always good to see another one as a car and not bits.

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Thanks for the comments.

 

Jim, haven't really noticed yet, I just had a quick drive out around the block to make sure it was OK. Felt quite comfy compared to my rather stiff Eibach / Koni setup.

 

Vaughan, it's a great colour. If the sun would come out a bit more I might even get to appreciate it!

 

Mr Sands, sure will, another one to spot :lol: , just need to get it insured, mot and tax. Sounds expensive already (see below!).

 

Yan, it'll be pretty hard not to borrow bits off it. It has been suggested that I strip it out and turn it into a track day car already!!!! That would be a shame, as it's stayed so complete for 17 years.

 

 

Been looking at insurance today (which has to be one of my most hated things to do!). Just a few things that get to me:

 

I've been driving a car for 20 years now, never made a claim. So why does my no claims discount only apply to one car :? Obviously my driving gets really sh*t when I step out of the VR into the valver or something?

 

3rd party and fully comp make no difference to the cost of the cover? Try this one out for yourselves at direct line or something.

 

My wife can get a cheaper quote than me (she has a similar perfect record)?

 

I've had quotes that exceed the value of the car? How does that work?

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