How can I keep my C red and not fade pink?

[herisites 0]

Yep ditch the T-cut and just stick with super resin polish, much better product imo. Just stick at it with the super resin, dont just give it a quick polish and expect it to look amazing, i would suggest maybe 2 or 3 coats of the super. Applied quite liberally at first working in circular and up-down motions with some pressure, cover the whole car in it, leave for 10 mins then buff off. Then do it again and again but using bit less polish, and work the polish a bit better, maybe doing a panel at a time. Once you have done with the super resin, then you apply the extra gloss protection which is best applied using a sponge applicator, pointless using a cloth as it just soaks in and you use far too much product than you need to. Apply to the whole car and leave for AT LEAST an hour to harden, then buff it off.

 

Enjoy 8)

[Jim Bowen 1]

can you wax on top of EGP? or is it used instead of a wax?

 

i got that and collinite at home

[Veearrhsix 0]

Yep ditch the T-cut and just stick with super resin polish, much better product imo. Just stick at it with the super resin, dont just give it a quick polish and expect it to look amazing, i would suggest maybe 2 or 3 coats of the super. Applied quite liberally at first working in circular and up-down motions with some pressure, cover the whole car in it, leave for 10 mins then buff off. Then do it again and again but using bit less polish, and work the polish a bit better, maybe doing a panel at a time. Once you have done with the super resin, then you apply the extra gloss protection which is best applied using a sponge applicator, pointless using a cloth as it just soaks in and you use far too much product than you need to. Apply to the whole car and leave for AT LEAST an hour to harden, then buff it off.

 

Enjoy 8)

You make it seem less daunting now... The sponge idea I'll definitely use. I guess the trick is to use lots of coats of everything until the bottles are empty. Now I'll see if the weather will hold up for me. :eek:

[Alexander 0]

Yup, me too! I'll persevere with the SRP, thanks for the info!

[herisites 0]

can you wax on top of EGP? or is it used instead of a wax?

 

i got that and collinite at home

 

Yeah you can do, you can just go polish then seal or polish, seal then wax. A lot of people actually prefer using a wax as well as a sealant. I myself prefer just a good wax as i like the warm deep glow it gives as apposed to a sharp finish from a sealant.

[herisites 0]

You make it seem less daunting now... The sponge idea I'll definitely use. I guess the trick is to use lots of coats of everything until the bottles are empty. Now I'll see if the weather will hold up for me. :eek:

 

Yup, me too! I'll persevere with the SRP, thanks for the info!

 

No worries 8)

[Veearrhsix 0]

Just wondering - from AG's website it says to use parallel strokes when applying the renovator polish - If possible could I use a 'rotary' polisher instead at very light pressure and slow rpm? :shrug:

[Veearrhsix 0]

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=93905

Found this thread... so might start by hand instead... A usual novice would try doing the whole car in a day, but think I'll just do approx 1/2 the bonnet for now.

[big ben 10]

here is a thread i see the other day with cherry glaze, but there is loads of products which will work well and correct your pink paint.

 

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... erry+glaze

 

but i would certainly be using a machine polisher and polishing pad for pink paint, hand polishing is far too much hard work. Maybe get your self a dual action polisher and couople pads, also make sure you clay the car first to remove any contaminents

[big ben 10]

also, just been reading through and thought would clear some bits up...

 

-there is no point in layering SRP, it will remove its self as its an all in one which cleans, fills and protects. But the sealant will only last few days tops, so it needs sealing with sealant/wax

 

-rule of thumb, only wax on sealant and not other way round as sealants usually contain solvents which will replace the wax

 

-i wouldnt be leaving SRP on long, swipe test it and then remove it, do a panel or 2 at a time.

[G-Lad 0]

ive got some of that, ill do just that! Cheers, how often will i need to keep re applying t cut,polish,super resin stuff?

 

Only use t-cut to strip off the oxydised surface paint that makes it look pink. Do not use t-cut regularly, and heaven forbid you need to use anything more abrasive. Use t-cut perhaps once a year, tops.

 

I agree with the Super Resin Polish suggestions, plus the Extra Gloss Protection to seal on top every few months. These worked well on my Tornado Pink Golf ;)

 

Chris

[Conker 0]

My ten pence worth...

 

AG Paint Rennovator is very harsh (more than T-Cut IMO), and left hazing when I used it by hand - although effective, it needs a lot of SRP buffing afterwards to repair the marks. I would much rather use a machine combined with a very mild polish - remember if you can even use SRP with a machine if you keep the pad moist etc. If, like me, you are a complete novice, I would be happier taking my time with a mild polish than using an abrasive.

 

I'm 99% certain SRP will layer if the second/third layers are not "polished", i.e. just applied lightly then buffed. This will give you more swirl filling.

 

The best swirl filling I've seen was Bilt Hamber Autobalm - doesn't bead as well, but the tests show its EXTREMELY resilient.

 

As for protecting polished red paintwork, FK1000p sealant has ultraviolet protection (apparently), and pretty hardcore durability. I would be going for three coats of FK1000p on red paint to help prevent re-pinking.

[big ben 10]

fk1000p is an amazing product, best to do 2 very thin layers, leave it 24 hours and then add another couple...

 

i have been using fk215 as prep and that is working very nice, also worth adding some fk2180 in between for added protection, then top up with fk425 and even a sneaky layer of fk2685 as im loving the wax at the minute!!

[big ben 10]

 

I'm 99% certain SRP will layer if the second/third layers are not "polished", i.e. just applied lightly then buffed. This will give you more swirl filling.

 

that may work but doubt it... if done correctly you will only need to do it once anyway. But for faded pink paint i would be 100% using abrasive polishes as then you are sorting the problem, instead of doing a temporary fix

[WaxDaddy 0]

meguiars ultimate compound will restore the red from pink, use a claybar first IMO then you can either, layer up with glaze + sealant + wax or if your not that bothered just go for a long lasting hardwearing wax like collinite 476

[dragon 0]

Had mine detailed and mopped lasted for ages all i had to do them was polish her , i use meguires myself as i found that gave the best and easiest results, been resprayed now though and jebus its RED :shock: lol

[Veearrhsix 0]

Mmmm sexy Tornado red bonnet I don't think... (Driver's Front wing & door are in similar state.)

Something to add to the "to do" list next week pending weather. Will begin with hand buffs of AG renovator, unless anyone chips in with a "Noooo use SRP instead!" type of thing... :pale: (Actually all plastic panels/bumpers, rear spoiler etc. are equally "erm") :pukeright: ...which is about right for age.

 

Also can't get the knack of claying the car - takes ages and I get tonnes of cr@p sticking to the damn stuff, including that red T-cut wax I layered on it an age ago... :brickwall:

[Veearrhsix 0]

P.S. cheers for your views/experiences regarding this subject... still 1/2 & 1/2 on the AG Renovator but might just take Conker's approach... :scratch:

A case of trying and seeing what works best at the end of the day (literally - wish I had a garage). :)

[Jim 2]

I suffer from similar problems on my bonnet on the red Corrado, as well as on the spoiler. It's a PITA.

 

The best I can manage is Super Resin Polish, followed by EGP, followed by some HD Wax. But it fades again quite quickly.

[big ben 10]

^^ thats because the sealant fails and the SRP is gone, you really need it correct with an abrasive polish and then it will stay red...

 

i dont mind helping anyone do their cars as i have all the gear but im in bedfordshire so depends how far away everyone is? got some new nano coatings to try as well and they last 10 months and act as an additional layer of laquer, for pro use only and cant be brought :wink:

[Majik 0]

I think the best way would be a good mop using 3m/farecla cutting compound, i turned a pink corrado red using ths method. My neighbour has a 1993 mk3 golf in red he's owned from new, most of the car is still as red as it was when it was new apart from a door and rear quarter panel which had been repainted by the dealer, that area faded to pink pretty much straight away. That tells me the quality of the factory paint must have been much better quality than what bodyshops use.