Yellow temp sender for vr6

[Toad 0]

Afternoon. It would appear that the temp sender for my temperature gauge is playing up on my vr and I would like to replace it. It's got a yellow ring on it on the car and 4 pins. I've phoned the local dealer, and they only show a blue/black 4 pin sender for the car. Is this the right one? Have they changed the colour scheme recently?

 

I believe it controls the gauge and the after run on circuit, if this helps.

 

Alternatively, has anyone got a part number for this bit?

 

Thanks

 

Tom.

[Dub_nut_g60 0]

Dont know if its any help tom, but on the G the blue temp sender is for ECU and the black is for gauge.

 

Thought all C's were the same as far as those 2 were concerned?

 

Isnt there also a yellow one on the VR for fan control or something?

[craigowl 0]

Here is pic of my senders last week. Yellow one controls fans.

[Toad 0]

Here is pic of my senders last week. Yellow one controls fans.

 

Think it controls the after run fan and the gauge. Dunno what the black one does though....

[herisites 0]

I think the black one is for the emergency fan that kicks in at bout 130c

[Jon_vr6 1]

After you've taken the supercharged vr6 for a good spin eh lol^^^^

[Yandards 0]

Here is pic of my senders last week. Yellow one controls fans.

 

Think it controls the after run fan and the gauge. Dunno what the black one does though....

 

Yellow one is the one you want, does both gauge, fan control and aux water pump.

 

There are usually only 2 on UK VR's on that plastic housing, third one is for aircon.

 

701 919 369 D is what you want although it listed as black/blue on ETKA the last one I had was yellow.

[craigowl 0]

I have third one (black) but no aircon. :?

[Toad 0]

Here is pic of my senders last week. Yellow one controls fans.

 

Think it controls the after run fan and the gauge. Dunno what the black one does though....

 

Yellow one is the one you want, does both gauge, fan control and aux water pump.

 

There are usually only 2 on UK VR's on that plastic housing, third one is for aircon.

 

701 919 369 D is what you want although it listed as black/blue on ETKA the last one I had was yellow.

 

 

Cheers Yan, I just did some digging and found that out. was talking to 2cc and he kindly whipped his sender off his engine (which was removed) and gave me the part number of 701 919 369 B Which when put into ETKA has been dropped and replaced by 701 919 369 D which is, as you say Blue/black not Yellow/black

 

Cheers everyone!

[Toad 0]

I have third one (black) but no aircon. :?

 

As do I.

 

Have read that it's for the emergency fan, but not quite sure if that's true or not...

[Yandards 0]

I have third one (black) but no aircon. :?

 

As do I.

 

Have read that it's for the emergency fan, but not quite sure if that's true or not...

 

Done a bit more digging and I think if you have a later VR then you get a 3 stage fan instead of 2. I believe this is for the 3rd stage as well as aircon.

[craigowl 0]

Thanks for that, Yan. 8)

[Toad 0]

Updatage.....

 

Bought the new sender from VW today and...... It shoots up to 100 degrees even quicker than the old one. :(

 

Anyone got any ideas? Could it be the wiring?

[Yandards 0]

Updatage.....

 

Bought the new sender from VW today and...... It shoots up to 100 degrees even quicker than the old one. :(

 

Anyone got any ideas? Could it be the wiring?

 

Just means the new one is working properly..

[craigowl 0]

These overheating problems on some VR6s intrigue me - and make me feel lucky, too.

 

At 70-80ish mph (indicated) over many miles last week, my coolant temp was just below 70C constantly. It does go up to 100-110C ish max in traffic jams, though.

 

Oil takes about 15 mins to get up to 80C and dont think I have seen it above about 115C.

 

I have always given cooling systems good flush out (reverse flush, too) when changing fluid or having system in bits like last week.

I would hate to think of fellow forum members chasing annoying overheating problems without first taking fundamental steps before throwing money at problem. Apologies to you if you have checked obvious first - am only trying to help.

[dinkus 10]

It intrigues me too - I'm not sure how much of it is variables in the sensors, corrosion in the system, dying pumps, coolant to water ratio or combinations thereof.

 

This time of year, my water temp sits at 85-90 during normal driving, which is bang in the middle of the temp gauge, so must be about right.

 

If I'm sitting in traffic it climbs up to 100 but never goes higher than 105 and floats around 100-105 as the fans come on and off.

 

I don't think I've ever seen my oil over 118 and that was a hard run in Germany down the autobahn.

[Toad 0]

Updatage.....

 

Bought the new sender from VW today and...... It shoots up to 100 degrees even quicker than the old one. :(

 

Anyone got any ideas? Could it be the wiring?

 

Just means the new one is working properly..

 

Nope, sorry mate....

 

The ecu says 91 degrees, the thermostat is slightly open as the bottom hose is lukewarm, and the gauge reads 110 now. IMO the actual coolant temp is 91 degrees, but the gauge is overreading by 10 degrees with the old sender and 20 with the new one...

 

 

 

These overheating problems on some VR6s intrigue me - and make me feel lucky, too.

 

At 70-80ish mph (indicated) over many miles last week, my coolant temp was just below 70C constantly. It does go up to 100-110C ish max in traffic jams, though.

 

Oil takes about 15 mins to get up to 80C and dont think I have seen it above about 115C.

 

I have always given cooling systems good flush out (reverse flush, too) when changing fluid or having system in bits like last week.

I would hate to think of fellow forum members chasing annoying overheating problems without first taking fundamental steps before throwing money at problem. Apologies to you if you have checked obvious first - am only trying to help.

 

No worries Mr Owl... My problem is that it isn't overheating, it's just the gauge getting excited. My oil takes around 15 mins to get to 80-90 too, which is a bit boring.. it's been noticable with the cold nights recently how the oil temp has been kept down around 100.

 

 

 

It intrigues me too - I'm not sure how much of it is variables in the sensors, corrosion in the system, dying pumps, coolant to water ratio or combinations thereof.

 

This time of year, my water temp sits at 85-90 during normal driving, which is bang in the middle of the temp gauge, so must be about right.

 

If I'm sitting in traffic it climbs up to 100 but never goes higher than 105 and floats around 100-105 as the fans come on and off.

 

I don't think I've ever seen my oil over 118 and that was a hard run in Germany down the autobahn.

 

Yeah, there's a lot of things that can be wrong or different... I wonder how they test the senders/ what the acceptable tollerances at the sender factory are??

[Tekara 0]

The over read between the gauge and ecu seems rather high. My reading are quite different upto 90'c then they balance out, with the gauge reading between 2-5'c difference.

[Toad 0]

Yeah, I can't work out why they are so big. The funny thing is, the ecu and the gauge read similar temperatures , well up to ~5 degree differences, up to about 90 degrees on the old sender and upto about 80 degrees on the new one before the temp gauge shoots upward.

 

I did wonder about wiring, especially after that slightly chafed cable we saw when replacing the thermostat housing, but the readings seem too consistent at the lower temperatures.

 

I suppose the best way to check the engine loom would be to get the pin number from the master plug and check the resistance.

[Yandards 0]

Yeah, I can't work out why they are so big. The funny thing is, the ecu and the gauge read similar temperatures , well up to ~5 degree differences, up to about 90 degrees on the old sender and upto about 80 degrees on the new one before the temp gauge shoots upward.

 

I did wonder about wiring, especially after that slightly chafed cable we saw when replacing the thermostat housing, but the readings seem too consistent at the lower temperatures.

 

I suppose the best way to check the engine loom would be to get the pin number from the master plug and check the resistance.

 

Could just be the difference between the senders, it could also be the gauge starting to fail and as you have already mentioned the wiring might be a bit duff.

 

The main thing is the car is running at the correct temp and an artificially high yellow sender (assuming it is both gauge output as well as fan control) is only going to run the cooling fan for longer and the aux water pump, which is not a bad thing.

[Toad 0]

Could just be the difference between the senders, it could also be the gauge starting to fail and as you have already mentioned the wiring might be a bit duff.

 

The main thing is the car is running at the correct temp and an artificially high yellow sender (assuming it is both gauge output as well as fan control) is only going to run the cooling fan for longer and the aux water pump, which is not a bad thing.

 

I wonder if it is the gauge slowly dying? It would appear to only be the gauge that is over reading, the fan and pump still run on where they should do.

 

Spoke to my helpful parts man, and he said he'd change it for another one at the weekend. If not.. .I wonder If I could put a resistor in the line to bring the reading down?

[Yandards 0]

Could just be the difference between the senders, it could also be the gauge starting to fail and as you have already mentioned the wiring might be a bit duff.

 

The main thing is the car is running at the correct temp and an artificially high yellow sender (assuming it is both gauge output as well as fan control) is only going to run the cooling fan for longer and the aux water pump, which is not a bad thing.

 

I wonder if it is the gauge slowly dying? It would appear to only be the gauge that is over reading, the fan and pump still run on where they should do.

 

Spoke to my helpful parts man, and he said he'd change it for another one at the weekend. If not.. .I wonder If I could put a resistor in the line to bring the reading down?

 

Better off sourcing a spare set of clocks and getting the mileage changed mate.

[12 DEG BEN 0]

Toad. I have a spare set of clocks kicking around you can borrow for a test session. Should be down waltham way this week to get shot of my golf. Will pm my number.

[Toad 0]

Toad. I have a spare set of clocks kicking around you can borrow for a test session. Should be down waltham way this week to get shot of my golf. Will pm my number.

 

Cheers for the offer Ben, have replied to your PM...

 

Tom

[Kevin Bacon 5]

This time of year, my water temp sits at 85-90 during normal driving, which is bang in the middle of the temp gauge, so must be about right.

 

If I'm sitting in traffic it climbs up to 100 but never goes higher than 105 and floats around 100-105 as the fans come on and off.

 

That is precisely the right behaviour 8)

 

I've done a lot of testing on this and I read the values from the sender directly, not the rather pants analogue gauge. Water on a cruise all year round should be 85-90 deg C and that is where the blue temp sender is at it's most efficient for economy ;-)

 

When stationery, the water is kept to 95-100 deg C by fans 1 and 2 over winter, and 100-105 over summer. When the water hits 115-120, the 3rd speed kicks in and you will know about that as the engine struggles to idle, such is the current draw.

 

If the temp gauge reads 70 degrees, it's one of 2 things.

 

1) A knackered guage or sender. The gauge was £25 from VW last time I checked, but things do change! Clips into the existing gauge panel easily. If in doubt, use VAG-COM as it reads the sender directly, if both are 70, replace the sender and try again. Obviously if the sender says 95 and the gauge 70.....you know the drill ;-)

 

2) It's not possible for the water to actually be 70 degrees assuming your stock 80 deg stat is working properly, so check it's not stuck open. That would explain the oil taking forever to warm up and the gauge never moving off 70. It would also explain bad economy as the blue sender thinks it's still warming up and the cold running map doesn't switch off on the stock map until 70 degrees.

 

And that last point is why it's not a good idea to run low temp stats and rad switches by the way.