Yandards' Nugget G60 - gone but not forgotten..

[BigTartanJudge 0]

Looks like a Magnex per chance ?

 

On another note, it would appear that Jetex still do an exhaust for the early G60 ?

 

http://www.vwspeed.co.uk/volkswagen/par ... 355-1.html

 

As do Supersprint:

 

http://www.supersprintuk.com/corrado-18 ... 8_333.html

 

HTH

[CrazyDave 0]

Yep Jetex do an early system, my valver has one fitted. The rear silencer looks a little strange though (I'll take some pics if you want to see what I mean...). It fits fine, no knocking etc

[Supercharged 2]

It's a Jetex he's having issues with...

 

Magnex have gone bust and Supersprint no longer make Corrado exhausts...

[davidwort 0]

are the late hangars in a different position on the underside of the car? would like to change to the bar type hangars but I've got a feeling you can't just bolt up the parts in place of the early ones.

[Supercharged 2]

Interesting to know the answer to that David as I've thought about that before - especially as more late systems seem to come up for sale etc...

 

Could also imagine it's much easier to install the exhaust it it's on hangars already and just needs bolting up...

[Yandards 0]

are the late hangars in a different position on the underside of the car? would like to change to the bar type hangars but I've got a feeling you can't just bolt up the parts in place of the early ones.

 

Yes, is the annoyingly simple answer.

 

IIRC its the back box fitting that really makes a mess of things.

 

Right I have had another look at this whole thing and been in touch with the supplier. It does fit a lot better but is currently missing the pipe from the midbox to CAT bypass and the CAT bypass pipe. I have ordered a collar to fit around the end of the CAT pipe and that should then slot inside the next pipe back. There was one in the kit but it is way too small to go over the existing pipe, so I ignored it, I am hoping it will all align ok after that.

 

As for the rear hanger there is a hook supplied with the kit that mounts upside down, I did try that but it didn't fit without catching on the heatshield panel I assumed it wasn't suppost to go like that bit of an :epicfail: on that end..

 

Hopefully the part will arrive tomorrow/wednesday and I can actually drive the car again :D

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Please find some pictures below for you to laugh/empathise with

 

I am indeed both laughing and empathising having had that experience myself!

 

The old saying "if you want something done right, do it yourself" seems to ring truer every year where this country is concerned.

 

I won't ever pay for an exhaust again, it will be made from various bends and universal silencers that are easily (and cheaply) availble :D

[Supercharged 2]

I remember the 'Milltek day' all too well Kev :D

 

Cigarettes, Red Bull and Tesco sandwiches!

[Yandards 0]

Right, sorted, kind of.

 

After speaking to the manufacturer again and measuring various bits and pieces it turns out I have a Golf 16v front box, this is despite quoting the part numbers over the phone on (late) Friday and being told they were ok :brickwall:

 

Anyway they are going to send me a Corrado item now so with a bit of luck I might get to drive the car before the end of the week.

[Guest]

despite quoting the part numbers over the phone on (late) Friday and being told they were ok

 

Sounds like someone just wanted to get rid of you and get off home. POETS day syndrome. Tut tut.

[Yandards 0]

Well after all the hassle I finally got to drive the car again this evening.

 

With the correct centre box the exhaust fits a treat, I also took the time to mod the cat bypass a little (dragged the downpipe mounting holes over by 2mm) so I could rotate the lambda probe around so that it does not rub on the heat shield. A new lambda probe was fitted and thanks to my new AFR gauge I can see that the whole thing is working well.

 

Its been 6 months since I last drove the car and its been parked up outside all winter, it was great, if a little strange at first, to get behind the wheel of a Corrado as aside from a quick blat in 2cc's VR in January its been a long time. I have forgotten how well they go around corners and the car feels lovely and torquey.

 

Got a few jobs in the pipework for it now its back on the road, need to wire/plumb in some centre console oil and boost pressure gauges and then I have another piece of work lined up that will be revealed later - I may even do some kits of this particular mod if it goes well.

 

Need to give her a good clean tomorrow (weather dependant of course) and then look into getting some rubber on those new rims.

[Yandards 0]

Ho-hum.

 

Gave the nugget a good wash and decided to jack hear up to get at the insides of the arches properly. On looking at the N/S/F arch it was covered in CV grease, the outer CV has given way.

 

Arse burger, so that's a new outer kit from VAG from me getting ordered and fitted. Might even take some pictures and do a how to while I am at it, as long as the weather is nice :)

 

Oh and the paint on the car is just depressing, it needs a really good going over to get some sort of a shine out of it.

[Yandards 0]

After being parked up for 6 months the G60 repaid the favour by shredding its passenger side outer CV boot. Got that changed this morning and it took longer to clean all the gunk out of the wheel arch and the back of the hub carrier.

 

All sorted now, although I did manage to shear a half inch extension drive while trying to undo the hub nut.

 

Still waiting on the new project parts for it, should help keep the oil temps down a bit.

[boost monkey 0]

After being parked up for 6 months the G60 repaid the favour by shredding its passenger side outer CV boot. Got that changed this morning and it took longer to clean all the gunk out of the wheel arch and the back of the hub carrier.

 

All sorted now, although I did manage to shear a half inch extension drive while trying to undo the hub nut.

 

Still waiting on the new project parts for it, should help keep the oil temps down a bit.

 

I sheared a 1/2" extension undoing the hub nut to change my CV too! Spooky.

 

Glad to see this coming along though, didn't realise Old Yella had been off the road so long.

[davidwort 0]

just done exactly the same job on my valver, even from just a tiny slit in the boot the whole lot sprayed out everywhere, lovely mess isn't it?

Do you need to use and extension when doing the hub nut?, I found that even a short socket and breaker bar head was enough to clear my wheel, perhaps because of the wheel design? - Borbet C. Had to stand and bounce on the breaker bar though :lol: and I only did that nut up over the winter so it's not like it had been on for years.

[Yandards 0]

just done exactly the same job on my valver, even from just a tiny slit in the boot the whole lot sprayed out everywhere, lovely mess isn't it?

Do you need to use and extension when doing the hub nut?, I found that even a short socket and breaker bar head was enough to clear my wheel, perhaps because of the wheel design? - Borbet C. Had to stand and bounce on the breaker bar though :lol: and I only did that nut up over the winter so it's not like it had been on for years.

 

It does just fit with a short socket but given the forces involved it was likely to end up failing off and end up with a large torque wrench having a one way conversation with my wing. Don't know about standard G60 BBS rims as I have some Fondmetal jobs on there at the moment.

 

Going to get a 30mm double depth socket for this job me thinks.

[CTWG60 0]

Going to get a 30mm double depth socket for this job me thinks.

 

Sounds like a dildo! :luvlove:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's the wrong smiley! :eek: That's better. Sorry I'm going now.

[davidwort 0]

:help:

[Sonicriot13 0]

Going to get a 30mm double depth socket for this job me thinks.

 

Sounds like a dildo! :luvlove:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's the wrong smiley! :eek: That's better. Sorry I'm going now.

 

Was there something you wanted to tell us? :lol:

[CTWG60 0]

Was there something you wanted to tell us? :lol:

 

NO!

.. / -.. --- -. .----. - / .-.. --- ...- . / -... .. --. / -.. .. .-.. -.. --- ... / .- - / .- .-.. .-.. --..-- / -. --- - / -- . / -. ---

[Sonicriot13 0]

Was there something you wanted to tell us? :lol:

 

NO!

.. / -.. --- -. .----. - / .-.. --- ...- . / -... .. --. / -.. .. .-.. -.. --- ... / .- - / .- .-.. .-.. --..-- / -. --- - / -- . / -. ---

 

:lol:

 

Anyway Yan, yes a double depth socket is the way forward!

[boost monkey 0]

I know a medium (4" long?) 1/2" drive extension clears Sebrings nicely.

 

God, someone is going to start a "hub nut and socket wheel clearance thread" now :nuts: :bonk:

[Toad 0]

3/4 drive socket set is the way forward....

[Yandards 0]

In an effort to keep the oil temperatures at a more sensible level, especially on the motorway, I decided to charge cool the nugget.

 

Whilst I agree an oil cooler is a much easier and cheaper solution it does not really get to the root cause of the problem, the standard intercooler is incapable of keeping the charge temps down, it has a maximum air temp input of 55 deg C, which in turn causes the engine temperature to increase resulting in even higher intercooler inlet temperatures.

 

The 'usual' route is to fit a front mount intercooler (FMIC) but I wanted to try something different for a number of reasons: 1st of all any FMIC fit tends to involve hacking away at parts of the slam panel, 2nd they suffer from heatsoak when in heavy traffic, 3rd I was intending to fit the charge cooler where the original G60 intercooler lives to keep it more OEM looking.

 

So after looking at some options I decided to go down the chargecooling route, it was around the same price as a good FMIC kit, and offered some good performance, up to 300bhp and charge air outlet temps of ambient air temperature + 10-25 degrees C.

 

After much faffing around with hoses etc I finally have it installed, this is just a rough fit up for now, I need to make some better/tider arms for the charge cooling radiator and the clear hose will be swapped out for some black stuff to keep it more sensible looking, the header tank needs some satin paint on it to reduce the bling and I also need to add another elbow as the water hose is kinking just after the radiator outlet. I did take the opportunity to relocate the horns down to where the factory intercooler used to live, that should improve airflow over the radiator. The u-bend silicon hose from the chargecooler into the boost pipework is not a great fit, I intend to try some 2 and a 1/4" bore flexi hose to see how that shapes up, I need to fit a 16v wheel arch liner on the passenger side as the brake cooling duct wont fit anymore - luckily I have one spare from the other car that needs a G60 style duct :) I think a charge cooling radiator that is the full height of the existing radiator would be a better idea, that way the end tanks dont shroud airflow to the existing radiator.

 

No idea on what effect it is going to have yet, I am hoping the oil temps wont go much past 100 degrees even under heavy load - although if it sits at 110 instead of 124 then thats not a bad result either.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Nice work! Should work a treat!

 

Looks like a nice compact solution, unlike the swimming pool I have to carry around in the boot. Is it the PWR setup? Works really well on CrazyDave's car.

 

Where are you taking the intake temps from? My inlet sensor is right in the middle of the manifold, so is more manifold temp that anything else I suppose, but it averages 17 above atmosphere this time of year and 10 above over winter.

You often get lower (and misleading imo) readings from sensors that aren't actually in the manifold, but with the G60 intake being above the exhaust mani, the heatsoaked readings could also be a little misleading, but I suppose the actual air temp the intake valves receive is perhaps more telling?

 

Anyway, good skills, looking forward to the road test results.

 

124 oil temp is pretty hot! Didn't realise G60s got that hot!