Yandards' Nugget G60 - gone but not forgotten..

[CTWG60 0]

Nice work! Should work a treat!

 

Looks like a nice compact solution, unlike the swimming pool I have to carry around in the boot. Is it the PWR setup? Works really well on CrazyDave's car.

 

Where are you taking the intake temps from? My inlet sensor is right in the middle of the manifold, so is more manifold temp that anything else I suppose, but it averages 17 above atmosphere this time of year and 10 above over winter.

You often get lower (and misleading imo) readings from sensors that aren't actually in the manifold, but with the G60 intake being above the exhaust mani, the heatsoaked readings could also be a little misleading, but I suppose the actual air temp the intake valves receive is perhaps more telling?

 

Anyway, good skills, looking forward to the road test results.

 

124 oil temp is pretty hot! Didn't realise G60s got that hot!

 

Oil temps are ridiculous on a stock G60, I use to regularly see 120+ even after a sort burst of throttle. My VW Golf G60 intercooler (no hacking required) made more power due to the denser air and made the situation worse if the throttle was used so I made an oil cooler setup using VW parts which retained the water cooler and was my oem-ish solution. Mk1 oil take-off, mocal custom pipes, and a Audi 80 diesel oil cooler which fitted straight into the old intercooler cowl on some home made barckets. I don't see above 104?C, oh I also have a larger radiator aswell since the new engine was fitted.

 

Nice work Yan nice to see a new approach to cooling.

[Toad 0]

Looks like you made a good bit of progress. Is that u-bend going to be at risk of damage in it's current position?

[dirtytorque 0]

An interesting startergy.Will be interesting to see how it compares to your fmic on the valver.

8)

[KipVR 1]

8) Looking good mate, chargecoolers are definitely the way forward, I used one on my Mk1 G60 but I found it still suffered from heatsoak (as you would expect) but got round the problem by installing a fan override switch.

 

Also, I made some nice chargecooling pipework for it and it looked so factory... What I did was just use household copper pipe, elbows etc, and then covered it in heatshrink to make it look plastic, obvously you need a small amount of well placed hoses to allow for movement. Anyway it was just a thought

 

You will probably laugh but it honestly worked a treat and was really cheap! :D

[Yandards 0]

Thanks for kind words folks.

 

Kev, the quoted figures are based on the numbers provided for the PWR chargercooler, so 25 degrees above ambient air temp when it leaves the cooler; it will obviously get some heat transfer from the manifold but at speed I would not expect this to be a great deal. I don't have any kit in place to get a reading for inlet manifold temperature, so it's just going to be looking at the in car MFA info.

 

Toady, the u bend is well up into the bumper area and sits higher up than the stock intercooler did, it just looks bad due to the angle and lack of a wheel arch liner/bumper.

 

CTWG60, interesting that you got more engine temp with a better intercooler! Makes sense really, will have to wait and see, although I was talking to Eric a little while back and despite the aircon radiator in his US spec car he never sees oil temps up above 100 degrees.

 

Most of the chargecooling kit from here although the pump is from a Lotus elise.

[Henny 0]

looks like a nicely planned project there... 8) Liking the chargecooler too... :)

[drewiee99 0]

Looks good mate i was tempted to try this but place the chargecooler where the intake pipe for the shortest possible distance, and place the pump where the old intercooler was,like the pic. What intake pipes are those you have are they custom made?

[Yandards 0]

Hi Drew,

 

The pipes are the BBM ones but you should be able to cut the standard ones down enough.

 

Only snag with that sort of routing is the CO Pot sensor will need to be relocated as it sits in just the wrong place and as the chargecooler is more into the engine bay it will suffer from heatsoak.

 

I can report back that after a few runs into work and back that it is a very good mod. If you think about a nice cold winters morning when the G60 just pulls really well, it drives that like but a bit better and is very consistent through a warm up. Not got any oil temperature info yet as I have not done a long enough run, but it does seem to get up to temperature at the same sort of rate and I am seeing 94 degrees on the MFA for the oil. The big question remains - will it stay around 90-100 degrees ?

[CTWG60 0]

My money is on higher oil temps especially in frisky pedal action high speed stop start situations like the dual carriage-way drag race. I didn't want to do a mocal oil cooler as I wanted to retain VAG parts under the bonnet and if you want to keep your watercooler you need to use a shorter oil filter. :nono: So I plumbed for a mk1 oil take off as mentioned before.

[eddy.h 0]

hello nice C mate

 

iam interested in the gearbox balance weight do you have a part number

 

allso interested in changecoolers ( www.frosenboot.com ) type 9 or 3 :D

[eddy.h 0]

hello nice C mate

 

iam interested in the gearbox balance weight do you have a part number

 

allso interested in changecoolers ( http://www.frozenboost.com ) type 9 or 3 :D

[Yandards 0]

My money is on higher oil temps especially in frisky pedal action high speed stop start situations like the dual carriage-way drag race. I didn't want to do a mocal oil cooler as I wanted to retain VAG parts under the bonnet and if you want to keep your watercooler you need to use a shorter oil filter. :nono: So I plumbed for a mk1 oil take off as mentioned before.

 

After a good few months of driving around with the charge cooler fitted I can report on the oil temps, slightly higher.

 

But, and this is a big but, I can't recommend one enough much more consistant power delivery (within the limits of digifant anyway) and less problems with heavy traffic heat soak.

 

Looking at fitting an air con radiator instead, hopefully that will help as the Germans and Americans never seem to report silly oil temp problems.

[CTWG60 0]

I have a bigger rad and it does really help, hardly ever hear the fans running and coolant temps stay low. :D

[Toad 0]

Can you fit the VR radiator to the G60? Is there a bigger unit available for the VR?

[CTWG60 0]

I used a golf G60 FMIC type rad but it wasn't an easy fit. I don't know about the VRs.

[Yandards 0]

Can you fit the VR radiator to the G60? Is there a bigger unit available for the VR?

 

No need to, the aircon radiator for the G60 is bigger than a VR one at 675mm wide, an increase of over a third from the stock item.

[Yandards 0]

Decided to try some LED bulbs over the weekend, so ordered them and they arrived today. Went for some dash clock illumination ones in green (the ones in the back of clocks, not the ones that you remove the front to get at), combined brake/rear light red LED units and finally a set of LED sidelight bulbs. Also bought a pair of Osraam nightbreaker H3 main beam bulbs, not tested these yet as I will try them on the run into work in the morning but they quote a 90% improvement in light, 35m in range and 10% whiter light (whatever that is..)

 

The new LED sidelights bulbs are bloody excellent as the pics attached show, no more brown light when you are using the sidelights. New rear brake/light LED units have a load of LEDs all over them, getting a much more even rear light illumination now with the added bonus of not having to worry about the filaments rupturing, if an LED goes the rest of the unit still works.

 

Best bit is all of these are plug and go, no mucking around with resistors or anything else to get them working, as they are LEDs I would expect much longer life and they are so much more durable than normal bulbs with the added bonus of very low operating temperature.

 

The H3 Osraams also came with a nice little motion sensitive LED light unit as a freebie, it's got a magnet as an optional attachment so that comes in very handy.

 

LEDs and H3s from here

[dragon green 4]

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the difference between H3 and H4 ?

As i have H4 in my C

[Toad 0]

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the difference between H3 and H4 ?

As i have H4 in my C

 

You have H3 and H4... They refer to the shape. One is main beam, the other is dipped beam/main beam

 

Oh, and I'd be interested in seeing the prices of the LED units, Yan. :)

[Yandards 0]

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the difference between H3 and H4 ?

As i have H4 in my C

 

You have H3 and H4... They refer to the shape. One is main beam, the other is dipped beam/main beam

 

Oh, and I'd be interested in seeing the prices of the LED units, Yan. :)

 

Your wish is my command (in this case)

 

Sidelight LED here £4.98 each

Rear brake/light LED unit here £16.25 for the pair

Dash clock LED (the ones on the back of the clocks only)here £3.99 each

 

They also do some 382 type LED units, suitable for front and rear indicators and the reversing light here £6.84 each

[big ben 10]

These LED's look great, will be getting some soon now after seeing these!! thanks for sharing...

[Supercharged 2]

Apparently he's now fitted some 'tasteful' blue neon tubes along the sills... :wink:

[big ben 10]

Apparently he's now fitted some 'tasteful' blue neon tubes along the sills... :wink:

 

:lol: :lol: and in the footwells to yeah?

[JMC 0]

Thanks for the info on the lights Yan - I presume they will be the same for all Corrados (ther were no differences between early and late for these were there?).

[too hot 0]

I just fitted the LED sidelights to my Golf and they do look really good. 8)

I also bought some LED number plate lights too and they are excellent.

The white light is so much more up to date than the old orange/brown colours