engine bay tapping noise - its running now!!

[fla 9]

good info as usual Griff, thanks for the tip Cheesy. Do you mean a mark on both the chain AND the pulley marker? i'm going to reinstall the head and do the upper chain before putting the covers and gearbox back on, if that makes any difference?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Nope, just the bit arrowed :lol:

 

Reason being, it's very difficult to see those markings through the gearbox inspection hole unless you mark it with tippex ;-)

 

It's just so that if you ever have to recheck the timing, or change cams, or tappets etc when the box is on, you can see that marker easily and will ensure the cam timing is 100% spot on.

[fla 9]

Yep, OK. How do you put those (coloured) arrows on the pic btw?

[dr_mat 0]

Yep, OK. How do you put those (coloured) arrows on the pic btw?

 

Can't you see the wires holding them in place? ;)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Hasan, Paintshop Pro mate...... yellow line with an "ending" arrow head ;-)

[fla 9]

Just a quick update, lower tensioner installed, oil pump dismantled and relief vavle operation checked, cleaned and rebuilt. All ok. Block pressure relief valve checked - no blockage but still soaked it again in oil and rechecked. Just need to blast some air from the oil pump discharge pipe to the head. Is there any other way of ensuring that there is no blockage in the oil reaching the head? I presume this (in the top left corner) is where the oil arrives from the pump? I also used a rage wrapped on a rod to wipe down from the top of the oil bore. No new pics, but will post some more up as the block gets rebuilt. Oil filter had some nice shiny bits in it :shock: so obviously did its job ok, fortunately.

[fla 9]

Any suggestions on clearing the oil passageway to the head? I'm thinking of blowing some compressed air up the oil pump discharge line.

Also, in the block (head side) which are the oil discharge points? Thanks

[pete_griff 0]

hey there buddy if you've got the correct gun thingy with a fluid reservior underneath to use with your compressor, then you could try blasting some petrol down the galleries - sure to clean out most of the crap and will evaporate afterwards - cleaned my friends block in this very way using his spray/blasting gun type thing

[fla 9]

the attachments i have are the spray nozzle, normal air blast pipe, tyre pressure and one more - its the package from Screwfix. Not sure what you mean about the reservoir? Maybe like a paint spray head Griff?

[fla 9]

cleaned out the oil pump discharge lines, fitted new head gasket and head. Engine plates still need polishing and i might degrease and paint the block, where accessible. When the rebuild is complete i'll be starting the manual conversion. some new pics.

[fla 9]

a few more pics - the head bolts were bloody hard to tighten up, 60Nm plus another 180 degrees, not easy when the engine is sitting on a pallet. The block needs a clean and paint, some of the aluminium parts will be polished. I've hammerited the lower inlet manifold and polished the upper chain cover plate.

The rebuild is not too bad, just need to be careful on the torques and to make sure there is sufficient oil on the internal surfaces for protection. Instant gasket on the side plates.

[Philuk 0]

looking good, i wish i could do stuff like this on my own! lol, how long you expecting to be off the road for now?

[zak 0]

Hassan, looks like your'e making good progress! its turned in to quite the project now....

[fla 9]

Cheers Zak & Phil. How long off the road? Well, tbh, it can be rebuilt pretty much in a day or so, but what with wanting to do teh auto to manual conversion at the same time, it'll be a few more weeks. Unfortunately i only get a few hours on the weekends to have a tinker otherwise it would have been done months ago. TBH Phil, its not too difficult as long as you are careful and methodical and dont try and cut corners. I made sure all teh bolts etc were put into labelled bags and i took loads of photos when dismantling. Pus of course Bentley has all the torques you need. Basically Zak and Roger convinced me to take it apart and after hearing the £1500 potential bill i thought it would make more sense. So far i've spent about £500 on a replacement head, gaskets, chains and tensioners, bolts etc so hopefully all being well it 'shoul' run like a new motor....

[pete_griff 0]

glad to see you are making progress there buddy - it's so much more rewarding when you do it yourself (so much more rewarding on the wallet too!)

 

tell me buddy - where did you get your metal crack pipe from, was it expensive?

[fla 9]

glad to see you are making progress there buddy - it's so much more rewarding when you do it yourself (so much more rewarding on the wallet too!)

 

tell me buddy - where did you get your metal crack pipe from, was it expensive?

 

Too right Pete. Very interesting, it just makes it all the more worth it when you put it all together and you know it is done as you throught it should be.

 

Crack pipe is the Gruvenparts one in the group buy. I think you can get it from their local agent here now, Volksbits or something, i think they're called..

[Toad 0]

glad to see you are making progress there buddy - it's so much more rewarding when you do it yourself (so much more rewarding on the wallet too!)

 

tell me buddy - where did you get your metal crack pipe from, was it expensive?

 

Too right Pete. Very interesting, it just makes it all the more worth it when you put it all together and you know it is done as you throught it should be.

 

Crack pipe is the Gruvenparts one in the group buy. I think you can get it from their local agent here now, Volksbits or something, i think they're called..

 

Strictly Dubs do them here, but it's cheaper to buy direct from the US TBH. http://www.gruvenparts.com or something...

 

Glad to see it's coming back together now Hasan.

[fla 9]

Few steps forward, few back, degreased and hammerited half of the block, needs teh front side doing, then the oil filter goes in and this will be manually circulated. New Viton o-rings arrived for my injectors which have been nicely cleaned up (externally, will blast some carb cleaner through them to make sure the spray is okay)

Just remembered that i didnt threadlock the upper chain guide bolts. This is v important as the bolts are not torqued up too much, so side plate is coming off again, some light loctite threadlocker, reseal and refit.

The auto box is going back on, so this will be cleaned up externally, the ATF will be replaced, the tranny filter changed and the solenoids given a wipe up. And then everything else will go back on. If i get a few clear hours this weekend I might make better progress. As CorradoNOS (James) suggested its best to turn the block over on the starter without the plugs to get the upper chain tensioner bolt at the right pressure.

 

The next two projects to attend to are the front brakes (have my 288s still sitting in the garage), and the shocks - again sitting in the garage, just have to get some rear bump stops. So all else being okay it should be up and running in a few weeks. I might take a few days off next week to speed things up though. Oh, and the engine bay needs a bit of cleaning and polishing, as do the front cross member and rad support panel.

 

Then it shouldnt look or run too bad, once its all been tweaked.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I've never loctited the upper guide bolts and not had any problems. The bolts can't go anywhere with the cover in place anyway as there's not enough room for them to fully unscrew and drop into the sump :-)

It's up to you though!

 

Coming along nicely!

[fla 9]

Ah, good point Kev. Anyway its all loctited, sealed up and back to where i was before. Injectors have new seals and have ben cleaned and refitted, a real pain - i ended up fitting half to the fuel rail and half to the lower manifold and pressing them in.

Some new pics, block needs a lot more hammerite though. Front bracket is VERY awkward to polish properly.

[boost monkey 0]

Are you going to check the head bolts when you get the engine off the pallet?

 

engine stands are only like £30? :shrug: :confused4:

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

looking good Hasan,dont worry to much about blockages to the head,just follow what i said and you will see the oil pumping at the top.

 

Bet you cant wait to get her fired up? :wink:

[fla 9]

james, cheers, will do. And yes, cant wait to get it all back up and running. :) Its a good learning experience and gratifying that you are able to all these things yourself. I need to clean up and service the auto box before whacking it back on so in the meantime i'm just pouring about 1 litre of 10W40 into the block.

Boost monkey, the head bolts have been done up as per Bentley and I can assure you that was quite hard - 60Nm PLUS another 180 degree turn on 20 bolts, is not not easy 8). BTW, where can you get the engine stand from?

When it starts up all the leaks will come to the fore (hopefully none though if i've done everything correctly!)

[boost monkey 0]

Fair enough, I wouldn't like to even try moving a VR on my own! :lol:

[dirtytorque 0]

re engine stands:

 

machinemarts or just get one off flea bay