Big Adam 0 Posted November 25, 2010 drivin the leon i liked the 6 speed box n fancy puttin that in the rado, how much a ball ache is this? bearing in mind i have a full leon a my disposal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JONNYBOY32 0 Posted December 19, 2010 hi ya big adam hows the build comming along? you got any pics? im guna do this next year, only live in st helens so mabey i could pop up sometime and have a gander? john Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Adam 0 Posted December 19, 2010 hi ya big adam hows the build comming along? you got any pics? im guna do this next year, only live in st helens so mabey i could pop up sometime and have a gander? john its coming along well considering we have only spent 4 or 5 evenings on it! the loom is almost ready but the snow and ice is stoppin us gettin the rado back in the garage. hope to get it back on the road for the new year but time will tell :? check my progress in the members gallery. anybody got the wiring diagram for 20vt instrument pannel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blaarado 0 Posted December 25, 2010 hi all, am almost finished with me conversion but have a problem. im using the dbw from the ibiza i took the engine from, wiring was done by a company in bristol. car starts beutifully but nothing happens when i press the accelorater pedal no revs nothing. iv done a bit of searching and one suggested my ecu is fried but i allso seen somthing about performing a throttle body allignment dont know how id do this on a transplant. and would the engine even start up if the ecu was fried any ideas guys Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blaarado 0 Posted December 26, 2010 hi all, i posted this in the 20v thread allready but ill put it in here also, im just about finished my ibiza cupra ayp engine transplant iv used the standard engine managment with the dbw system. the problem is im gething no response from the accelerator pedal, car starts and idles no problem. on doing some searching around one thread i found hinted at a fried ecu, but would the engine even start if this were the case? iv also seen somthing about a throttle body allignment witch somtimes has to be done if u disconect the battery or remove the tb or the pedal all of whitch iv done but i dont know how i would do this. anyone any ideas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted December 26, 2010 allright there, id simply have a look at the pedal first,something you forgot to plug in?or accidentally kicked off a plug? check the resistance of the accel pedal.its basicaly a variable pontentiometer so as you press the pedal the resistance will increase or decrease. doubt it would be a fried ecu as it starts and idles fine but dont overlook it Throttle body allignment switch?whats that? or do you mean throttle postion sensor(TPS). The TPS shouldnt need to be done as just another type of variable pontentiometer and is already calibrated once you turn on the ignition. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted December 26, 2010 The DBW system has two throttle-pedal potentiometers for dual-validation. One increases in resistance as the pedal is pressed and the other decreases. If they fail to agree on the pedal position the ECU will enter 'limp' mode for safety. The car will idle but you'll get no boost and an extremely lazy throttle response. The throttle body alignment is just an automatic calibration of the throttle plate position. After a while the throttle plate may become slightly mis-aligned; this appears as jerky power delivery or boost dumping for seemingly no reason while driving. It's most noticeable under load and is not really something you'd notice at a standstill. The only way to properly align the throttle plate is with VAG-COM. There's some information about the procedure in THIS thread but you may have to register to see it. Do you have any way to scan the ECU for fault codes? This would be the logical place to start as I suspect your ECU is in limp mode for some reason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blaarado 0 Posted December 26, 2010 cheers for the response lads the wiring was done by a company in bristol but they never sent the diagnostic plug back with the loom and iv tried to get them to send it a couple of times but no sign of it yet, they said its a separate loom and would be easy to make up. would it be an easy thing for myself to do and where or how do i wire or plug it in to the system as im not the best with electrics. ill wait till i get the diagnostic port sorted before i start panicking.i suppose ill go over all the wiring again to double check. im just mad to get it back on the road after hearing the engine run Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blaarado 0 Posted January 4, 2011 right quick update, pulled some codes; p1631, throttle position sensor,high input sensor 1 p1634, throttle position sensor,high input sensor 2 are the two sensors in the throttle body? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Adam 0 Posted February 28, 2011 does anybody know where you get the rev counter signal converter from? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corrado_sunderland 0 Posted March 19, 2011 does anybody know where you get the rev counter signal converter from? jabba for about 50 quid posted m8 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blaarado 0 Posted April 5, 2011 hi all, can anyone put me right on somthing, i have ayp 1.8t in 90 corrado, with standard mngment dbw, at the moment im using mechanical speedo cable in the gear box that came with the ayp, works fine but am told it wont run proper if the ecu doesnt read vss, now i still have the 3 pin plug on the loom for the vss, so do i need the vss for the gear box and g60 clocks or wat set up do i need, and will the spoiler still operate with the vss in cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcocorrado 0 Posted April 5, 2011 Right chaps. Howdy, Long time no speak. Mainly because i sold the Corrurbo to a friend and all has been well.... until now. Ok to start with the car is a 1994 2.0 16v which i converted to an AGU K03s lump with Qpeng, FMIC, 316cc injectors (i think). All has been very well until about 2 months ago when my pal managed to find the largest pothole in GB adn cracked the sump, losing all oil and pressure causing lights and buzzers to go off (good job coz i made the loom myself. Quite relieved) anyway as a suck it and see atempt at a cheap fix i changed the sump for a shallow one thinking there may be worse consequences to the lack of oil running. However the car responded very well to just the new sump and was running rather sweet for a number of weeks until bbbbbuuuzzzzzzz. No oil pressure again. This time my pal wanted to change the pressure switch and pump. SO i whipped off the sump to find metal and plastic and more metal in the pan. One chunk was about 1/2 inch square. Hmmmm. After putting the sump down and looking towards the crank i **** myself to find that the chain to the pump was not even connected to the pulley. Oh.... Hmmm. Then more mortified to see the pump pulley was buckled by about 1/2 inch. I guessed that this was caused by the chunk of ally (a lug from the NEW sump turbo return pipe bolt thread) bouncing into the chain and causing grief. The chain from the crank now slips like buggery around the crank/pump gear. BAAAAD news. So upon telling my dear friend the news, a new AGU lump is required. So much less hastle than a rebuild. The big question now though is...... IHI and LSD or not? It only has the standard 2.0 gearbox. Is the gearbox man enough and what diff is needed? Whats the best IHI route plus costs etc? Im not concerned about the effort required. Any help or questions or advice would be hugely appreciated. Especially about the LSD. It needs one big time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billy-16v 0 Posted April 25, 2011 Hi just a quick question if any one can answer it for me? what clutch and fly wheel do i need to use when putting my agu in my c with the standard box off my 1.8 16v? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob_B 0 Posted April 26, 2011 Hi just a quick question if any one can answer it for me? what clutch and fly wheel do i need to use when putting my agu in my c with the standard box off my 1.8 16v? VR6 clutch and the 16v or G60 flywheel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billy-16v 0 Posted April 26, 2011 Cheers for the reply rob_b would any 16v or is it the abf engine fly wheel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
liamtg60 10 Posted May 21, 2011 The QPE kit is a separate ECU already mapped and is geared towards making the conversion as simple as possible and still using vw sensors etc I think. The donor car route or full engine and loom and ECU may be a better way to do it of your looking for factory look to the install. You would need to defeat the ECU immobiliser if you not fitting the full clocks and ignition and key for full factory operation then you obviously want to factor on getting that mapped as well as you sound like that's the way your going. How do you get round the ecu immobiliser? is there company's that will do this? sorry if im sounding stupid ere... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Adam 0 Posted June 2, 2011 How do you get round the ecu immobiliser? is there company's that will do this? sorry if im sounding stupid ere... think you can get the imobiliser deleted but not sure were Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60_edge 0 Posted June 13, 2011 What air filter are people running on their 20vt's. Are you just attaching to the existing intake pipework or new pipework up to the turbo? Thanks Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blaarado 0 Posted June 28, 2011 hi all does anyone know how i can wire up the aux waterpump, can i just wire it into the ignition or does it have to be wired into the fans system Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy-H 0 Posted July 5, 2011 Morning folks, Sorry for being Lazy and not checking through the entire thread :( . I've just bought an AGU engine with gearbox, ECU, Manifold &cat, and a lot of other ancillaries. Question 1 - How did you folks mount your engine? Question 2 - Can I mate up my 2.0l 9a drive shafts up to the Mk4 gearbox? And finally (for now) - Where is the best place to buy the immobiliser defeat? Thanks in advance, Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted July 6, 2011 guys,is anyone here using dbw pedals on their 20vt? the wiring is boggling me as cant find wiring for dbw pedal on the loom.spent past three days searching,cant find info Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60_edge 0 Posted July 7, 2011 guys,is anyone here using dbw pedals on their 20vt? the wiring is boggling me as cant find wiring for dbw pedal on the loom.spent past three days searching,cant find info I'm just starting out and plan to use the DBW pedal. I've identified the wires in the loom. From memory its the blue connector in the 2nd engine loom (the one without the coils etc). There is a load of good info on club gti, I'll get you the link tomorrow. I assume your engine had DBW in the first place? Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60_edge 0 Posted July 8, 2011 I'm just starting out and plan to use the DBW pedal. I've identified the wires in the loom. From memory its the blue connector in the 2nd engine loom (the one without the coils etc). There is a load of good info on club gti, I'll get you the link tomorrow. I assume your engine had DBW in the first place? Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk Link from club GTI with a load of good info. DBW throttle wiring on post 20 http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=205887 Wiring diagrams for various 20vt ECU, can get the same info as above here but in more detail. http://www.zen17496.zen.co.uk/downloads/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites